Huey
True Classic
Are those taillights total custom work or is it a kit that can be purchased? I love those!
Are those taillights total custom work or is it a kit that can be purchased? I love those!
darwoodious
Darin Nelson
in retrospect, my quote is ridiculous: there's exactly 1g of load on those control arms, as much as you'd have driving very hard thru a corner.
Dr.Jeff
True Classic
They are custom. "Looking for Joe" has a old thread about them somewhere in the distant past.
AFAIK, all Mk1 (and many Mk2) VW rads have closed tanks and a small vent port...with one exception, the early Scirocco which had the fill cap on top of a larger tank, serving as the reservoir, with no vent port (ironic that the only rad that won't work in the X is one of the "Scirocco" options). Therefore the common use of referring to these as "Scirocco" rads is a little misleading. The Mk1 range of VW's includes several models with several engine options (including diesels), some with auto trans and/or AC. All of these variables would have determined what size rad they came with. They are all the same height (within a small range) but the length (width when looking from the front of the vehicle) differs. So any of them can be used in the X however a longer one is best. The Scirocco (after the early version) tended to have one of the long rads, but so did many other models (which are more readily stocked). So the best way to refer to them is by size instead of by model. Although that can be a little confusing also. They are often referred by the core size, but some times by the overall size (with or without the tanks and/or necks). And they can be referenced in metric or US (inch) units. If you really want to maximize the cooling capacity of your X you could use an even larger rad from later VW models, like the Dasher for example (often in the Mk2 range). These are about an inch taller so it will be a tight squeeze in the X but they are almost the same width as the original X (which is very wide)...considerably wider than the Mk1 rad...and they are a two row core (most Mk1's are single row...yet another variable to choose from). I did a quick trial fit of the large Dasher 2-row rad in my X and I think it can work (but haven't decided if I will pursue this or not...might be good for my future turbo build). Not sure if all this helps or confuses things more.
kmead
Old enough to know better
Are you sure it was Dasher? My recollection from ours was it was a very narrow radiator that mounted forward and to the side of the engine which is part of what limited it.
The A2 radiators might be a better choice as you suggest, I don’t recall which ones would be two row, 16v GTI maybe or B3 Passat (which was effectively a bigger A2 series car in many respects).
The A2 radiators might be a better choice as you suggest, I don’t recall which ones would be two row, 16v GTI maybe or B3 Passat (which was effectively a bigger A2 series car in many respects).
Dr.Jeff
True Classic
There are different generations of Dashers. One is transverse and one longitudinal, with completely different rads as you say. I guess its best to refer to them by dimensions just like with the Mk1 and Mk2 units. I'll have to look to see which one I have in my parts stash. But off the top of my head it's core is about 13" tall and 28"-29" long, and 2-row. So with tanks it is almost the identical length as the X's, but taller of course.
I seem to recall some ABA blocks had a 2-row core if AC and/or auto-trans, as well as the 6 cylinder, and likely Passat and 16-valve as you noted. Frankly they are too confusing because various versions of the same model came with different sizes of rads. And American market vs foreign market cars will also differ.
I seem to recall some ABA blocks had a 2-row core if AC and/or auto-trans, as well as the 6 cylinder, and likely Passat and 16-valve as you noted. Frankly they are too confusing because various versions of the same model came with different sizes of rads. And American market vs foreign market cars will also differ.
myronx19
True Classic
I use tall jackstands (6-ton) and this is enough to get under the car and do most tasks (including engine/transmission removal)
Now, if someone has a snazzy idea on how to safely lift up an Abarth 500, that would be great! Fek, there are no front/rear jack points. And the ones on the sides make it difficult to put a stand because the jack is in the way!
Now, if someone has a snazzy idea on how to safely lift up an Abarth 500, that would be great! Fek, there are no front/rear jack points. And the ones on the sides make it difficult to put a stand because the jack is in the way!
jvandyke
True Classic
I like my 4 post lift, not cheap but so far well worth it, I used it as a scaffold a few weeks ago (drop it on it's castors and push the whole thing around). And my kid's porsche is on it now but I can still drop it on it's castors and push the whole thing out of the way into the corner, car on it and all
Only downside is working around the runners, not 100% clear access.
Only downside is working around the runners, not 100% clear access.
Dr.Jeff
True Classic
You reminded me of a product I saw at a trade show but forgot to include in this discussion earlier.
In my opinion the existing design has room for improvement, and I might make my own version of it when I have more time. But I think the concept is good for certain vehicles...like Myron's Abarth (I have another car with the same problem).
Take a look at the pictures below and their website link: https://safejacks.com/products/the-rennstand-by-safe-jack
What it needs for improvement is; 1) a lower (slim) profile between the jack and the car for more clearance getting under low vehicles, and 2) longer legs to hold the car at a higher working level with a high-lift jack (see next post).
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Dr.Jeff
True Classic
Another product I like is this hydraulic floor jack with a low clearance height and high lifting capability:
http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/shopcart/TOOL/POR_TOOL_ACHyd1-detail.htm
http://www.acjacks.com/acjacks_003.htm
Combine this with an improved "low profile" version of the item in the prior post above, and the combination would be great.
http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/shopcart/TOOL/POR_TOOL_ACHyd1-detail.htm
http://www.acjacks.com/acjacks_003.htm
Combine this with an improved "low profile" version of the item in the prior post above, and the combination would be great.
jvandyke
True Classic
That's a great idea.
kmead
Old enough to know better
Fiatpower aka Jon Ranney has a MaxJax and is quite happy with it. It gets the car high enough that you can roll around under the car with a low stool. He recently used it to undercoat his new VW wagon.
7982X
So much fun it MUST be illegal!
This is our Kwik-Lift https://www.kwik-lift.com/products/kwik-lift/ . My wife found this on Craigslist about 7 years ago and it has proven to be invaluable. You drive up on the ramps, place a floor jack under the large "pipe" at the rear of the lift, jack it up, release the drop down legs, and lock in place. The width is adjustable to accommodate a variety of vehicles. We shortened the large pipe as all of our vehicles are relatively narrow and I didn't want to keep bashing my legs on the excess pipe sticking out the sides with the ramps closer together. It has it's limitations, but it works well in a garage with a 7-8 foot ceiling and gives you enough room to work underneath. Relatively inexpensive (I think we paid $1100.00 for ours) and low maintenance. We normally just leave it in place & park the truck on it. With all of our cars & truck being older, it gets regular use. We even stick magnetic lights on the inside surfaces of the ramps to provide light underneath. As we modified ours to be narrower, we also built a custom bridge (to the rear of the pipe) to fit our narrower setup. It can be placed virtually anywhere along the length of the ramps.
7982X
So much fun it MUST be illegal!
Only the end under the drop down legs (the ones that the white arrow is pointing to) raises & lowers. When lowered to the floor, you can drive on & off. The little red "wedges" make it easier for the tires to roll on & off the ends of the ramps. When we park the truck on the lift, we just leave it down. It sits at an angle, but the sump is at the rear of the oil pan, so it's OK. Yes, you can adjust the length of the ramps, but we have left it at the same setting since we bought it.
It IS simple, but effective for us.
dllubin
Don
I've got a very low cost but very flexible "lift" for my 74 using my supply of excess construction material. It relies on a 4" x 10" x 10' timber that the rear of the car sits on. Cement blocks are used to avoid ground to wood contact, and additional wood blocks are used to raise the vehicle further. The front of the car is raised sufficient to work under it by placing each front wheel into the back side of 14 x 6 rims from an Audi Coupe I had many decades ago. The barely visible jackstands are there as backup in case there is a sudden attack of termites.
7982X
So much fun it MUST be illegal!
That is a clever use of what's available.
In the end, we frequently have to work with what we have. At one time, I used jack stands made out of really old rear axle housings with a notch cut out of the top and used a farmer's boom truck to pull my engine. As many times as I am working on one vehicle or another (at this point in life), it would be tiring to set up and adapt it to the vehicle at hand all the time, but for the project you are working on it'll work, and that is what counts. Also, you have "safety backup" features. One of the junk yards that we shop at uses old rims to set the cars on, making it a lot easier to remove parts.
In the end, we frequently have to work with what we have. At one time, I used jack stands made out of really old rear axle housings with a notch cut out of the top and used a farmer's boom truck to pull my engine. As many times as I am working on one vehicle or another (at this point in life), it would be tiring to set up and adapt it to the vehicle at hand all the time, but for the project you are working on it'll work, and that is what counts. Also, you have "safety backup" features. One of the junk yards that we shop at uses old rims to set the cars on, making it a lot easier to remove parts.