<TABLE cellSpacing=1 cellPadding=6 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD colSpan=2><TABLE width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD style="PADDING-TOP: 4px" vAlign=top colSpan=2>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]Anybody replaced a crankshaft seal?<!-- google_ad_section_end -->
[/FONT][FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]December 14 1999 at 6:00 PM[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial][/FONT][/FONT]</TD><TD vAlign=top align=right>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]Scott [/FONT]</TD></TR><TR><TD vAlign=bottom colSpan=3><HR></TD></TR><TR><TD colSpan=3>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<!-- google_ad_section_start -->I need to do this while replacing my t-belt after the holidays and wondered if anyone has been successful with it. I assume it would be much easier to go ahead and do this while the belts, etc. are off. What kind of sequence should I follow as I am sure messing with the crank will throw the timing all off and make it really difficult to get everything put back together.
Thanks,
Scott<!-- google_ad_section_end -->
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[/FONT]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE></TD></TR><TR><TD>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]Author[/FONT]</TD><TD>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]Reply[/FONT]</TD></TR><TR><TD vAlign=top noWrap width="17.9%">[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<SCRIPT language=Javascript> <!-- var n54_em; n54_em = ""; n54_em = n54_em + "s";n54_em = n54_em + "t";n54_em = n54_em + "e";n54_em = n54_em + "v";n54_em = n54_em + "e";n54_em = n54_em + "h";n54_em = n54_em + "h";n54_em = n54_em + "@";n54_em = n54_em + "h";n54_em = n54_em + "i";n54_em = n54_em + "w";n54_em = n54_em + "a";n54_em = n54_em + "a";n54_em = n54_em + "y";n54_em = n54_em + ".";n54_em = n54_em + "n";n54_em = n54_em + "e";n54_em = n54_em + "t"; document.write("Steve Hoelscher"); // --> </SCRIPT>Steve Hoelscher <NOSCRIPT> Steve Hoelscher </NOSCRIPT>[/FONT]
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial][/FONT]</TD><TD style="PADDING-LEFT: 15px" vAlign=top><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD align=left>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<!-- google_ad_section_start -->First, remove the car from the seal...<!-- google_ad_section_end -->
[/FONT][FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial][/FONT]</TD><TD vAlign=top align=right>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]December 15 1999, 12:04 PM [/FONT]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD style="PADDING-LEFT: 15px">
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<!-- google_ad_section_start -->...well, its not really that hard...
You will need an impact wrench to remove the crank nut. Once it is off, its pretty simple; pull the v-belt pully, then the cogged t-belt pully. Then use a seal puller (or screwdriver) to remove the seal. If you have room, use a seal driver to install the new seal. If you can't get the new seal in place, you can remove the casting from the front of the block, install the seal on the bench (easiest methood), I use a mallet and a block of wood, and re-install the front cover, (with a new gasket of course). Then re-install the pulleys and impact the nut back on.
You may find it difficult maneuvering in the tight confines of the inner fender arch as the pulley is tight against it. And if you have a dual row v-belt pulley, its even tighter. To solve this problem, I pull the bolts out of the right side motor mount and crossmember and support the engine on a jack. A large screwdriver or prybar can then be used against the right side mount to move the entire engine over. You can also lower the engine some to gain some additional clearance.
All in all, its not that difficult a job. One important note. If you use the impact wrench to loosen the crank nut after removing the belt, note that the crankshaft is likely to rotate. If you are working on a 1300, bent valves will result. I leave the belt on untill the crank nut is loose.
Also, it is pretty easy to retime the crank, cam and auxshaft afterward. Plus, you will need to verify the timing after re-installing the belt anyway.
I really do like to replace all of the seals periodically to cut down on the leaks.
Steve<!-- google_ad_section_end -->
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[/FONT]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE></TD></TR><TR><TD vAlign=top noWrap width="17.9%">[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]Mac[/FONT]
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial][/FONT]</TD><TD style="PADDING-LEFT: 30px" vAlign=top><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD align=left>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<!-- google_ad_section_start -->Thank you Steve!<!-- google_ad_section_end -->
[/FONT][FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial][/FONT]</TD><TD vAlign=top align=right>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]December 19 1999, 11:26 AM [/FONT]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD style="PADDING-LEFT: 30px">
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<!-- google_ad_section_start -->
I could not have found the words to say it so clearly. Thanks! -Mac.
<!-- google_ad_section_end -->
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[/FONT][FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]December 14 1999 at 6:00 PM[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial][/FONT][/FONT]</TD><TD vAlign=top align=right>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]Scott [/FONT]</TD></TR><TR><TD vAlign=bottom colSpan=3><HR></TD></TR><TR><TD colSpan=3>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<!-- google_ad_section_start -->I need to do this while replacing my t-belt after the holidays and wondered if anyone has been successful with it. I assume it would be much easier to go ahead and do this while the belts, etc. are off. What kind of sequence should I follow as I am sure messing with the crank will throw the timing all off and make it really difficult to get everything put back together.
Thanks,
Scott<!-- google_ad_section_end -->
[/FONT]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><TABLE cellPadding=4 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD vAlign=top noWrap align=left>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial] [/FONT]</TD><TD vAlign=top align=right>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial][/FONT]</TD><TD style="PADDING-LEFT: 15px" vAlign=top><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD align=left>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<!-- google_ad_section_start -->First, remove the car from the seal...<!-- google_ad_section_end -->
[/FONT][FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial][/FONT]</TD><TD vAlign=top align=right>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]December 15 1999, 12:04 PM [/FONT]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD style="PADDING-LEFT: 15px">
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<!-- google_ad_section_start -->...well, its not really that hard...
You will need an impact wrench to remove the crank nut. Once it is off, its pretty simple; pull the v-belt pully, then the cogged t-belt pully. Then use a seal puller (or screwdriver) to remove the seal. If you have room, use a seal driver to install the new seal. If you can't get the new seal in place, you can remove the casting from the front of the block, install the seal on the bench (easiest methood), I use a mallet and a block of wood, and re-install the front cover, (with a new gasket of course). Then re-install the pulleys and impact the nut back on.
You may find it difficult maneuvering in the tight confines of the inner fender arch as the pulley is tight against it. And if you have a dual row v-belt pulley, its even tighter. To solve this problem, I pull the bolts out of the right side motor mount and crossmember and support the engine on a jack. A large screwdriver or prybar can then be used against the right side mount to move the entire engine over. You can also lower the engine some to gain some additional clearance.
All in all, its not that difficult a job. One important note. If you use the impact wrench to loosen the crank nut after removing the belt, note that the crankshaft is likely to rotate. If you are working on a 1300, bent valves will result. I leave the belt on untill the crank nut is loose.
Also, it is pretty easy to retime the crank, cam and auxshaft afterward. Plus, you will need to verify the timing after re-installing the belt anyway.
I really do like to replace all of the seals periodically to cut down on the leaks.
Steve<!-- google_ad_section_end -->
[/FONT]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=4 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD vAlign=top align=left>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial] [/FONT]</TD><TD vAlign=top noWrap align=right>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial][/FONT]</TD><TD style="PADDING-LEFT: 30px" vAlign=top><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD align=left>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<!-- google_ad_section_start -->Thank you Steve!<!-- google_ad_section_end -->
[/FONT][FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial][/FONT]</TD><TD vAlign=top align=right>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]December 19 1999, 11:26 AM [/FONT]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD style="PADDING-LEFT: 30px">
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<!-- google_ad_section_start -->
I could not have found the words to say it so clearly. Thanks! -Mac.
<!-- google_ad_section_end -->
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