Anyone know how to change out locks?
- Thread starter azxhead
- Start date
The door handle is held on by a sheet metal "cup" bolted on from the inside. If you remove the door panel, and the window is raised, you should be able to see what you need to do. I would use some penetrant on the small fasteners before trying to loosen them.
azxhead
True Classic
I have the handles out...
what I mean is how do I change the locks from one set to another?. How is the pawl held on. That looks to be the key to removing the lock. I could explore and learn and maybe not break anything, but I would prefer to know for sure. The lock on the luggage/engine cover was very easy...
what I mean is how do I change the locks from one set to another?. How is the pawl held on. That looks to be the key to removing the lock. I could explore and learn and maybe not break anything, but I would prefer to know for sure. The lock on the luggage/engine cover was very easy...
There is a small pin that needs to be removed...
If I recall correctly, there is a very small pin (or roll pin) that needs to be driven out to remove the pawl. I use a small nail with the point ground down to force it out. Either lightly tap the nail with a hammer, or squeeze it in a vice. Before you remove it, record the orientation of the pawl with respect to the handle - especially if you are doing both handles at once.
If I recall correctly, there is a very small pin (or roll pin) that needs to be driven out to remove the pawl. I use a small nail with the point ground down to force it out. Either lightly tap the nail with a hammer, or squeeze it in a vice. Before you remove it, record the orientation of the pawl with respect to the handle - especially if you are doing both handles at once.
It appears that the hole doesn't go all the way through,
due to the fact that the hole is drilled straight through the rounded part of the pawl, but emerges at an angle from the flat side (resulting in an elongated exit hole.) For some odd reason, it also took me a while to realize this. In addition, one of the holes may be filled in with crud.
Be sure to note the orientation of the key slot/lock cylinder in relationship to the pawl. Once you do get the pawl off, you'll note that the pin passes through a slotted region of the cylinder, not just a hole in the cylinder.
Due to improperly putting these back together a time or two, I eventually realized the purpose and reasoning behind the design. And also the wisdom of documenting how it came apart!
I fixed and changed the locks on my X, and it all works much better now. I found that the biggest problem was removing the small plastic pivots that hold the ball swivels, or something like that.
Good luck!
due to the fact that the hole is drilled straight through the rounded part of the pawl, but emerges at an angle from the flat side (resulting in an elongated exit hole.) For some odd reason, it also took me a while to realize this. In addition, one of the holes may be filled in with crud.
Be sure to note the orientation of the key slot/lock cylinder in relationship to the pawl. Once you do get the pawl off, you'll note that the pin passes through a slotted region of the cylinder, not just a hole in the cylinder.
Due to improperly putting these back together a time or two, I eventually realized the purpose and reasoning behind the design. And also the wisdom of documenting how it came apart!
I fixed and changed the locks on my X, and it all works much better now. I found that the biggest problem was removing the small plastic pivots that hold the ball swivels, or something like that.
Good luck!
A good old school locksmith can make the keys
even still mounted on the car. All they need is a blank key and it takes about 15 min or so. If all the cylinders are the same then 1 key fits all. It should cost about $40 bucks including spares..... You need to provide the blanks.
I have a locksmith that did it for me 5 years ago.
even still mounted on the car. All they need is a blank key and it takes about 15 min or so. If all the cylinders are the same then 1 key fits all. It should cost about $40 bucks including spares..... You need to provide the blanks.
I have a locksmith that did it for me 5 years ago.
azxhead
True Classic
Exactly what I intend to do with the locks
that came out, which will go into the chrome handles I will be keeping. I cleaned them up and there are codes on them that a locksmith can use to make new keys. Lucky enough, I have a customer that is a locksmith.
I am kind of glad I did the swap though. I learned something new and it gave me a chance to clean and lube them and make sure they work well before selling them.
Thanks for the input
Tommy
that came out, which will go into the chrome handles I will be keeping. I cleaned them up and there are codes on them that a locksmith can use to make new keys. Lucky enough, I have a customer that is a locksmith.
I am kind of glad I did the swap though. I learned something new and it gave me a chance to clean and lube them and make sure they work well before selling them.
Thanks for the input
Tommy
jvandyke
True Classic
My turn. I got the pin out of the pawl but how do you get the "handle" out of the way to get the square part and round lock cylinder free? Drive out the two side pins on the handle itself? Do those drive out? I want to swap lock cylinders from a chrome on to a black one (I have a key for the chrome side) then put the chrome one back together to send to a member in need.
jvandyke
True Classic
Tommy told me to operate handle and hold to reveal spring, tease off spring and lock tumble slides out, done. I carefully marked both of my handles so I could reinstall pawl in correct orientation, of course BOTH marks have been obliterated by me mess'n with 'em. Since pushing door lock knob (inside cabin) down to lock operates a lever that reverses the motion to up at the handle, I think the pawl's ball needs to be on the forward (toward front of car) side of handle. Insert key teeth up, turn clockwise to lock and this motion turns pawl's ball up, which is reversed at the knob to down; locked. Turn key CCW and pawl ball goes down, reversed at knob to up: unlocked. I think. The only difference between a passenger side and driver's side handle is indeed the pawl. The "tab" must face down and the ball will be "forward". I think…Should have followed my normal method of taking pictures before taking things apart!