[B]Zonker's Brown Wire mod, with pics:[/B]

Good luck ...

You will discover what I think of that kit, but let us know how it goes. :)
 
Red Bull 78 said:
Too Late. Already bought it.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/311363084480?ssPageName=STRK:MEBDIX:IT
Click to expand...

Thats the same kit I was referring to earlier - it will work, but because it is pre-made with the wiring going from the left headlamp to the right, running the wires without cutting the harness requires a little creativity. The HID kit I used was similar, and it required I drill two holes low in the body to run the wires from the left headlight cavity to the right.



 
Thanks.

I haven't even laid it out in the car to see how everything is going to fit yet.
I've got the Steering Column out, again, to R&R The Brake hoses and the Speedo Cable. Going to pull the other side of the Dash and do your BWM, while I've got all that stuff out of the way.
I've already figured out I'll need to run another BWM to the Main Power wire on that rig, so I'll work that into the plan, too.
I just need to figure out how to run the wires thru the "Frunk" so they're safe from Luggage & Top Storage.
 
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Once Again, Mine Doesn't Look Like Yours



That's probably the Bull's original color, because that's the only place I've found, that hasn't seen Salt Water or Sunlight in 38 years.
 
In this case yours does look like his. His image is of the right half of your image.



5KlIt0l.jpg
 
One of the Connections in The Female

Connector is a bit Loose.

Shrink wrap might hold it in place, but I'm worried about a Loose contact that creates , "winkin' blinkin' & Not Working at all and excessive heat.

I'm thinking there is a way to take the Contact OUT of the Connector for Cleaning, Repair or Replacement.
On other projects, I've used a Tiny Screwdriver to move plastic "Keepers" out of the way, to remove a wire when needed.

Will this work on my "X"?

I'm good at wiring up systems of my own design, but not so good at figuring out what someone else has done.
I am also "schooled" enough to know that I use "Rosin Core" vs. "Acid Core" Solder for Electrical Connections, so the Acid Released on one Job, doesn't Contaminate nearby Connections.

I also use Halon 1301 Fire Extinguishers, exclusively.

If you knock down a Trash Can Fire in the same room as your Computer or ANY other Electronic Gear, with a Dry Chem Unit, Only the stuff that contacts the actual Fire is Used Up.
The Sodium Bicarbonate used in them is Highly Corrosive when Heated and will find it's way into every other thing in the room. Every time your Wide Screen TV warms up, the Stuff will start corroding it's circuits.

Works the same way in the Kitchen. You can quickly knock down a Skillet Fire, without making a mess it will take days to clean up.
You'll have to trash the bacon in the skillet, but everything else is "Good-to-Go".

Another Plus, is many Halon Units are Multi-use, where Dry-Chems tend to Leak down, once you pull the Trigger.
 
You can use a small screwdriver to pop the terminal out of the plastic housing to bend it a little tighter, or in some cases with a little skill you can bend them tighter while it's still in the plastic.
 
Been Doing That for Years

On old cars & my Model Railroad layout. Just my Eyes & Hands aren't what they use too be.
Monkey See! Monkey Do.:thumbsup:



One wire goes to the Steering Column BWM, the other goes to Fuse #9.
I'm thinking of adding a second Terminal on the driver's side to run the Fuse Box and Headlight Harness BWM from.
 
Ya gotta watch out for quality issues when buying anywhere including eBay.

Have seen eBay wire that is nominally the same outside diameter as NAPA wire but compare the thickness of the copper to the thickness of the insulation and it's a different story!

IMG_1899.jpg
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No. Too Many Other issues

Blown Radiator Hose, wrong Water Pump(from Rock Auto) when It failed. Then the weather got too cold to get much done, lately.
I can deal with 50-60 F degrees, but grabbing tools that have been at below Freezing for a few days, takes all the "fun" out of "wrenching".
 
There are three wires that join at the 4-way junction/terminal block at the front of the fuse panel. One is the original brown wire and the other two are (a) always hot power to the fuse panel and (b) power to the ign switch.

I combined the two in what is called out as #4 on my power block. On my system, the brown wire per se is omitted and the super heavy battery wire #8 takes the place of it and any other additional sister wire coming from the batt to the 4-way junction/terminal block.
 
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