Battery drain!

[kmead]

ok. 8’ of BW, just rolled up, going nowhere, just in case. As far as the additional wires coming off the relay, etc, those get added via screw-on, butterfly nut?

They can be added using an eyelet and held on with the battery clamp fastener. A good clamp wouldn’t use the butterfly nut to make those attachments.

The 8’ of BW (which will be overkill but it is always easier to shorten a wire than lengthen it) will get used to run other relays or to bolster the ignition switch as you become more adept with electrical work

That clamp they threw on there isn’t helping.

The battery should be the type where the connections are towards the front of the battery in this installation (other plus and minus on the same ends of the battery just the opposite side, mirrored if you will).

 

[tvmaster]

They can be added using an eyelet and held on with the battery clamp fastener. A good clamp wouldn’t use the butterfly nut to make those attachments.

The 8’ of BW (which will be overkill but it is always easier to shorten a wire than lengthen it) will get used to run other relays or to bolster the ignition switch as you become more adept with electrical work

That clamp they threw on there isn’t helping.

The battery should be the type where the connections are towards the front of the battery in this installation (other plus and minus on the same ends of the battery just the opposite side, mirrored if you will).

Any reason why? The battery post position thing. I've seen some where the posts are central as well. There's a possibility the battery was turned the other way, but that the cover would not go on properly - I'll check that out

 

[kmead]

Any reason why?

To not have the wires doubled back on themselves which will allow the cover to fit properly.

 

[tvmaster]

To be honest that is a rather sad assemblage.

The main feed (heavy black wire) has a poorly executed crimp. The brown wire (feeds the many ancillaries) is little better and then the red wire which then transitions to yellow or butterscotch to feed the relay which is apparently for the second fan.

I am also not a fan of the battery clamp chosen. There has to be a decent automotive electrician locally who has a proper hydraulic crimper who could provide you with good quality crimped wires and replace the horror show for power into the that lonesome relay.

You could trace the wires yourself, there isn’t much that is new there. Creating your own mini wiring diagram is neither difficult nor all that time consuming, you just need to be a bit of a Sherlock Holmes to ferret out the details.

You could invest in the tools to make the proper crimps but being a one time use may not be worthwhile.

Ok, so it’s time to clean up this sad assemblage I guess. Here’s what was available at Autozone this morning. Note I will have four connections to the positive terminal by tomorrow, as a self-powered subwoofer is arriving.
If anyone has a positive terminal they like better, and fits under the battery cover, please post a pic.
Thanks, here they are:

 

[kmead]

Ok, so it’s time to clean up this sad assemblage I guess. Here’s what was available at Autozone this morning. Note I will have four connections to the positive terminal by tomorrow, as a self-powered subwoofer is arriving.
If anyone has a positive terminal they like better, and fits under the battery cover, please post a pic.
Thanks, here they are:

View attachment 48391

You already have the POS on the left, return it. The one on the right would be better overall, you can clamp the permanent wires and then use the eyelet connector under the clap fastener. They make a version of the one on the right that has more connection points which would be good.

The main feed wire on your car already looks more than a bit short which may have driven the battery choice. At some point you may be in need of a new main feed cable.

 

[tvmaster]

You already have the POS on the left, return it. The one on the right would be better overall, you can clamp the permanent wires and then use the eyelet connector under the clap fastener. They make a version of the one on the right that has more connection points which would be good.

The main feed wire on your car already looks more than a bit short which may have driven the battery choice. At some point you may be in need of a new main feed cable.

Sorry, bad photo of the gold terminal: it has four, screw-down connection points, two 4 gauge, and two 8 gauge I think. But yes, wire length is under consideration.

 

[kmead]

Sorry, bad photo of the gold terminal: it has four, screw-down connection points, two 4 gauge, and two 8 gauge I think. But yes, wire length is under consideration.

You could apply a properly crimped eyelet on the main cable and have a distribution block on the firewall and then go from that block to a clamp with short cable and eyelet to provide power. The distribution block would provide additional places to add circuit support in the future.

The distribution block could be moved inside the passenger compartment using the existing grommet and then it could look “correct” in the frunk

 

[tvmaster]

You could apply a properly crimped eyelet on the main cable and have a distribution block on the firewall and then go from that block to a clamp with short cable and eyelet to provide power. The distribution block would provide additional places to add circuit support in the future.

The distribution block could be moved inside the passenger compartment using the existing grommet and then it could look “correct” in the frunk

Since I doubt I’d be adding any other hardware to the frunk, that’s an idea worth considering

 

[Mxgrds]

I had a similar issue. Turned out the relay for the injection cooling inside the spare wheel space was constant charged. I only noticed it when I disconnected and connected the battery several times. I heard a clicking sound. I had the fan removed, but somehow the relay was still charged. I only had to disconnect the relay. Battery drain was over. So try disconnect/connect battery and listen.