Brake Bleeding Question

[Red Bull 78]

While waiting for the New Pressure Bleeder Cap, I tried to Reverse Fill the System from the Caliper Bleeders, just to check for Leaks.
In theory, I'm thinking the system is OPEN until the Brake Pedal begins to push the Master Plunger past the Fill Inlets. I should be able to FILL the Reservoir from all 4 corners.
But, I barely began and all 4 Corners just wouldn't take anymore and did not fill the Reservoir.
Brand NEW Master from M-B and Crossmember Unit is still hanging down so I can Check for leaks at the Fittings, therefore I worked the Pedal with my Hand while watching.
No leaks, but also no resistance except a slight hitch, mid stroke.
It's like the New Master is blocking flow in either direction.
If this is normal, then old master was bad when installed because I filled up the reservoir from all 4 corners. Brakes never were what I remembered, but I attributed that to the 185 tires vs OEM.

 

[kmead]

How old are the flexible hoses in the system?

A master cylinder shouldn't block flow from the calipers.

I would be looking at your flex hoses.

 

[Red Bull 78]

How old are the flexible hoses in the system?

A master cylinder shouldn't block flow from the calipers.

I would be looking at your flex hoses.

Everything in the Brake System EXCEPT the Stainless Hard Lines is less than 4 years old. My Big mistake was using NOS Master Cylinder, and OLD, Rebuilt Rear Calipers the first time around. RR took about 50 ml, RF about 25 ml before they balked. That is what is confusing me.

I am going to dig out the invoices for the Hoses, just to confirm they were not NOS too.

 

[Dr.Jeff]

I'm not a fan of the "reverse" filling/bleeding technique. Maybe try the standard "forward" method instead and see if things are different.

 

[EricH]

Check for a kink in the line between master and reservoir.

If that's clear and you're still waiting on your pressure bleeder cap, give gravity bleeding a try. Fill reservoir, open bleeder, drink cold beverage, check reservoir fluid level, repeat.

Are both of your problem lines routed through the union next to the master? If so, try reverse bleeding one of the calipers that is directly connected to the master.

 

[ianlawson]

Are both of your problem lines routed through the union next to the master? If so, try reverse bleeding one of the calipers that is directly connected to the master.[/QUOTE]
Eric's tip is undoubtedly the best way to successfully achieve a properly-bled brake system! I had a very similar problem to what you are now experiencing when I recently replaced the brake master cyl on my 1300 X!
Reverse bleeding the system DOES work! And start with the caliper that is directly connected to the master, as per Eric's advice!!
Good luck - you WILL need it!

cheers, IanL - NZ

 

[Red Bull 78]

How old are the flexible hoses in the system?

A master cylinder shouldn't block flow from the calipers.

I would be looking at your flex hoses.

You might be right. Found Invoices for the Hoses AND the Bad Master Cylinder from "IAP" (International Auto Parts). Not "Flintstone Auto", as I thought but no doubt the NOS Gremlins strike again.
IAP sold out to someone I stopped dealing with.
My weekend just started 4 hours ago. Going to disconnect the Hoses from the Hardlines and see if I can Push from the Bleeder.
If any bad, I'll replace them all.
The Bad news is, I got the Clutch Hose from them, too. But, it was Back ordered, so maybe I got a "New" one.

 

[Dr.Jeff]

If you end up having to buy new hoses, possibly consider going to stainless braided ones. They offer a much longer life, no possibility for collapsing or swelling, and a little performance improvement (increased feel). The "ready made" ones offered by some vendors are very expensive, but you can have them made by a local hose shop for a fraction of that (for example I get a pair done for $30, any application, exact duplicates of original design, all new components with modern hose materials, and usually done while I wait). You can also have them make the clutch line as well. Look for a industrial hydraulic hose service shop.

 

[Red Bull 78]

Thanks Dr Jeff. Busy day, only had garage time enough to pull hose on RR. That hose is OK. Going to check the rest tomorrow. If all clear, I'm going to pull the Lines at the Master and check for blockage. Can't fathom the probability that all 3 could be blocked. That's why I focused on the NEW Master Cylinder.
Also. On previous install, I had to use some Copper Flare Gaskets (Used to seal AC connection) to seal the hardlines at the Master. They are NOT in the Master I just removed, so they might still be on the lines and being crushed a second time, might be restricting the flow.

 

[Red Bull 78]

GOT HER DONE. No idea why I thought there was a Problem. Replaced Old, Cracked Dual Reservoir with Two Single Bottles. Backflushed from Calipers. Got Solid Peddle. No LEAKS, Steering Column back in and all Electricals are working. Just need to Attach & Adjust E-Brake Cables, put the wheels back on and I'm Back on the Streets Again.

 

[ianlawson]

Backflushed from Calipers. Got Solid Peddle.

There ya go! That's the trick!
Well done - I bet ya feel clever now, heh!

cheers, IanL - NZ

 

[Red Bull 78]

Backflushed from Calipers. Got Solid Peddle.

There ya go! That's the trick!
Well done - I bet ya feel clever now, heh!

cheers, IanL - NZ

Feel like I won the Lottery. But I'm also wondering. After having to Redo because of said leaks the first time, I left the crossmember hanging by just the lower, front bolt, say 30-45 degrees, so I could check for leaks, BEFORE putting everything back together only to have it PEE on the carpet.
This time, I put it back in Place, so the Master was "Level" and the Back flushing system worked fine. Wondering in the angle of the Master was the Issue?
I hate solving a problem when I don't know what I did.

 

[Janis]

Do You use clutch system for reverse bleeding or just add another bottle higher than all brake system?