Brake fluid hose

Belmetric or MWB
Australian so those directly will be expensive/difficult/slow. I can't find supply of Cohline or Conti in Australia. Gates is around but data is spotty and anyway, none of a suitable size in their Australian range. Mackay is local manufacture but does not appear to make a suitable hose in a suitable diameter - probably because remote reservoir brakes are unusual.
 
This is pretty simple. Any of the hoses from Belmetric or MWB https://www.midwest-bayless.com/Fia...4-128-x19-128-850-scorpionmontecarlo-new.aspx would do.

The brake master hoses are 7mm ID for most years (adding your cars details to the signature line would help us help you) and the clutch should be 5mm ID.
That is correct but by the time i pay US/Australia exchange rate plus postage i am paying high quality price for low tech solution. Tubing stainless /copper is forever, no kinks,cracks, weeping ect.
I will have to learn how to details to signature line??
Mine is a78 1300. New reservoir is 8mm on the brakes 6mm at the master
 
Australian so those directly will be expensive/difficult/slow. I can't find supply of Cohline or Conti in Australia. Gates is around but data is spotty and anyway, none of a suitable size in their Australian range. Mackay is local manufacture but does not appear to make a suitable hose in a suitable diameter - probably because remote reservoir brakes are unusual.

I would contact a company which does work on rally cars or similar, racing cars often have remoted reservoirs.
That is correct but by the time i pay US/Australia exchange rate plus postage i am paying high quality price for low tech solution. Tubing stainless /copper is forever, no kinks,cracks, weeping ect.
I will have to learn how to details to signature line??
Mine is a78 1300. New reservoir is 8mm on the brakes 6mm at the master
No matter what, you need several feet of flexible tubing to go from some part of your tubing to the masters.

I would suggest Cunifer for your rigid line, its easy to work and as this is a non pressure solution, just creating a ridge to clamp over will suffice.
 
Tubing stainless /copper is forever, no kinks,cracks, weeping ect.
I am curious if anyone has used stainless brake line from the reservoirs to master cylinders. Instead of hoses for the brake and clutch lines. When I replaced mine the new hoses seemed to be larger outside diameter than original. Making the transition through the scuttle into the cabin was real tight almost to the point of kinking the hose. I was thinking with a tubing bender I could make nice lines with just small hoses on either end for connection. Or even cut the metal tube in a good location and add another hose conection for ease of placement.
 
Since 2011 I have Tygon tube install in my X and no issue.
I'm really happy with the product.

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Rang these people trying to buy the stock stainless braided hose by the mt. They get them made overseas so no.
They have a teflon liner that they claim is compatible with dot 3, dot 4. Fittings are unf.
 
Rang these people trying to buy the stock stainless braided hose by the mt. They get them made overseas so no.
They have a teflon liner that they claim is compatible with dot 3, dot 4. Fittings are unf.
If you go with that product, I'm afraid the OD of 3 hoses going thru the same hole may squeezed them to much. IF that's the case, you may enlarge the hole, or, like myself, drill a new hole for the clutch hose while the 2 brake hoses remains in the original one. Don't ask me how I know... Even if I used another product, the hoses were so squeezed when I reinstall them that fluid wasn't going thru in at least one.
 
Funny. A simple question on some simple hose :) But actually, this is one of those problem areas that needs a proper fix. Plenty of bad experiences support that.
 
Rang these people trying to buy the stock stainless braided hose by the mt. They get them made overseas so no.
They have a teflon liner that they claim is compatible with dot 3, dot 4. Fittings are unf.
I think that is a bit of overkill.

You will need a short section of flex tube at each end of a rigid tube regardless at the master and at the reservoir.

I would bend up some annealed copper tubing or Cunifer (preferred) and either get a beading tool or take a piece of copper wire and solder it around the tube end to give a ridge for the clamp to engage.

Then buy a short section of proper hose for each end.
 
You will need a short section of flex tube at each end of a rigid tube regardless at the master and at the reservoir.
Unless.. Replace the push in plastic inserts at the master with machined aluminium plugs. External geometry identical to the plastic but tapped to take either a banjo bolt or a 90 degree fitting. Then replace the reservoirs with aluminium [plenty choices with threaded fittings too] then run rigid line. Forever fix
 
@Kevin Reay ....


Parker sells in Australia.

Forget the cheap tygon option, it's got no reinforcement, will kink flat and restrict flow, it's a bad option, an engineer would never use it.

This stuff is low pressure hydraulic hose, the smaller 4.8mm ID size will do the clutch, the larger 6.4mm ID size is good for the brakes. Putting the end into a cup of hot water prior to pushing it onto the plastic nipples is all that you need to do to make it fit, just make sure you slide the clamps on first!

speaking of clamps, dont use the cheapy worm drive type clamps, they chew into the hose... spend a couple of dollars and seek out ABA brand (or something similar construction) small hose clamps, stainless, rolled edges ... the ABA mini hose clamps are perfect for the job


sure a solid line might sound like a good idea, difficult in practice, and why? when there are good quality hoses and clamps that will do the job.

It's all available in Australia (and locally around the world) so no need to import anything and pay postage... the USA guys always seem to forget that postage OUT of the USA to somewhere like Australia is seriously expensive....like over twice what it costs to post from Australia to the USA

SteveC
 
Unless.. Replace the push in plastic inserts at the master with machined aluminium plugs. External geometry identical to the plastic but tapped to take either a banjo bolt or a 90 degree fitting. Then replace the reservoirs with aluminium [plenty choices with threaded fittings too] then run rigid line. Forever fix
Don't mind a short flex connection at each end, actual hose exposed to fluid at a minimum and rerun to avoid tight bends and difficult path.
 
... the USA guys always seem to forget that postage OUT of the USA to somewhere like Australia is seriously expensive....like over twice what it costs to post from Australia to the USA

SteveC

Yeah the post and the custom fees reality is hard to know as most of us don’t have to buy things from offshore, we are lucky in that regard. I buy a fair number of things from away but so far nothing from Australia (though I have been sorely tempted by you a number of times).
 
Yeah the post and the custom fees reality is hard to know as most of us don’t have to buy things from offshore, we are lucky in that regard. I buy a fair number of things from away but so far nothing from Australia (though I have been sorely tempted by you a number of times).
Do buy from Europe and the States and that's ok but i like to wait till i have multiple items .Think there is a set cost up to a set weight. If i need something quick it is better to use MWB and FedEx, head and shoulders above Aust Post. Takes less time from the States with them than from 2 hours away with Aust Post.
 
Do buy from Europe and the States and that's ok but i like to wait till i have multiple items .Think there is a set cost up to a set weight. If i need something quick it is better to use MWB and FedEx, head and shoulders above Aust Post. Takes less time from the States with them than from 2 hours away with Aust Post.
Eurosport in the UK has 6 mm ID EPDM hose and 7.3 mm ID EPDM hose for reasonable money. I have ordered from them several times, and shipping cost and transit times to the US have been good. Perhaps they are a viable option for Australian customers as well?
 
Might seem a lot of fuss over a simple hose but any hose that weeps will result in paint loss in nearly inaccesible places followed by rust. Not just an X problem, common problen on some Jag and various other cars from the period. Advice seems to be "replace the hose when you do a fluid change" ahahahaha.
 
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