Brown Wire questions.

etownsley

etownsley

Streel Legal GP Race Car
My brown wire plugs into the fuse block at the #12 position on the block. Is this correct?

Can I run a new second brown wire from the positive side of the battery to the #13 position(which is empty) or do I need to piggy back it into the same #12 position on the fuse block? Can I run another brown wire from the #11 position(also empty) on the fuse block and solder it into the brown wire closer to the ignition swtich?

Thanks.
 
works on a scorpion

Another option is to put relays on your headlight circuit, and wire them to the battery. You get waaaay better light, and unload the brown wire in the process.
 
Not sure...

If on yours the positions 13 and 11 are positive with the key off and the fuses out, then yes. Just check with a test light. If the fuses have to be in to get them to test positive, then you would be bypassing the fuses, not good.
 
Run a 10Ga second brown wire

From your battery to the empty position in your fuse panel.
(Your #13 position)
This will DOUBLE the capacity of your fuse panel.
JUST AS IMPORTANT, replace the 10" ground wire from your battery to the chassis
with a 4Ga 10" long ground terminal/lug.
Use a fresh star washer between the ground lug and the chassis.

You'll notice your whole electrical system works better.

As cmice suggests, adding relays (such as the insertable headlight harness) afterward
will remove the heaviest load from your electrical system.
 
Thanks Guys!

I will check it first with my test light. If it checks out okay then I will do it.

So I guess there is no need to run a brown wire to the ignition switch as so many on this forum have done?

Eric
 
I've never done it...

I've never run the brown wire to the ignition switch.
But I've doubled up on the brown wire to the fuse box as described in my previous post.
That, and a better ground wire from the battery to the chassis will make a very noticeable improvement.
Several here can attest...

It's important to note that the connection at the ignition switch does suffer from burnout due to:
1. Poor connection at this connector. (marginal adequacy)
2. Inadequate current feeding this wire, accelerating it's breakdown.
3. Poor grounding, both at the battery and transmission...
Folks end up cranking their engine longer which stresses the (already poor) connection. So be sure this connection hasn't discolored. If it has, repair or replace it. Good luck!
 
Brown wire to ignition switch or panel?

Doubling the ignition power wire adds potential capacity to the ignition switched circuits (think heater fan, wipers and headlights), but the ign. switch itself is most frequently the weak link at this point. This is what the relay additions help with; installed correctly a headlight relay will remove the load from the ignition and headlight switches. Other relays for wipers etc. serve a similar purpose.

Some careful testing with a Volt Ohm Meter will help you determine what modification will best serve your needs. If you find resistance between the battery and the fuse panel, a second wire might help. If the problem lies in the existing wires' connections, simply soldering the ends to the existing wires to reduce resistance may be all you need. The factory connections are simply crimped and over time corrosion and heat can loosen the connection. This exhausting detail can reduce resistance by a volt or better, which can fix or prevent other problems.

I think that the headlight relay modification is a prudent way to prevent meltdown of your ignition and headlight switches, and adds capacity for aftermarket headlights.
 
I will do the headlight mod...but not yet.

From what I read on this forum I can do the headlight mod in the front trunk. Right now my priority is to get the wires in the dash all buttoned up. Thanks for everyones help. I hope this thread will also help others in the future.

Eric
 
You're on the right track Eric

Fix what you've got first, then worry about the mods and improvements later.

So you know, the insertable headlight mod installs in each headlight pod and plug into your existing harness. (no cutting wires, etc.)
Refer to the mod archive HERE: (you can build your own)
Also, the installation instruction is HERE: and HERE: (just in case you actually build one)

Enjoy and good luck! -Bob
 
To answer your question about my BWM.

I received this post from Bob Brown some time ago. I am just getting around to putting everything back together. Sorry for the short post.

It seems to me that piggy backing into the ignition wire is not that necessary according to others that have done this modification.

I just needed some clarification (thats why I added the pictures) before I proceeded.

Thanks Tony!
 
If you use the insertable headlight mod then you don't need to touch the ignition.

There are 4 brown wires connected to a large white connector. 1 is from the battery, one goes off to the ignition and the other two power the fuse box. Adding an extra wire from the battery to power the two sides of the fuse panel separately make a huge difference. I did this and all of my problems went away and I have a 55amp Marelli alternator.
 
What do mean by two "two sides" of the fuse panel?

Do I run two wires from the battery and attach one to the front side of the fuse panel and the second wire to the back side of the fuse panel?

I am confused by your response.

Thanks.
 
Clarification

This is a picture of the white connector I am talking about in stock configuration.

DSC_2701.jpg


If you trace the route of these wires you will find one goes to the battery, one goes to the ignition switch, and the other two go to the fuse panel and attach to fuses 10 and 12.
You need to separate these two circuits by running another wire from the battery and connecting it to the wire going to fuse 10 or 12 in a separate connector.

Connector 1 will have Battery, Ignition and fuse 10

Connector 2 will have Battery and Fuse 12

Good luck
 
HAHAHA... not all your problems...

You still have a 55A Marelli alternator!

HA!

I ran mine for some time and then when it failed, I ran a Bosch 65A or something... and when it finally failed... is when I converted to a GM. Its a 63A I believe... but just much more robust... inexpensive and generally able to handle a jump or being jumped.

You should do well... and all mine lasted several years...
 
I will eventually do some sort of alternator conversion but for now I just want to drive it. 1998 was the last time it was on the road.
 
I have a question; for the late model X's since the hi-beam is running its own relay what options does do folks (Bob :)) suggest for the low beam? Should one just do the BWM anyway?

Thanks,
Tim
 
I suggest doing it for both

Because it accomplishes 2 things: (referring to the headlight mod)

1 (primary) it takes the ENTIRE load off your car's wiring harness. Your headlight switch switches a couple of low draw relays, which draws next to nothing.

2. It solves the "wire gauge" problem. This is something "the other mod" doesn't address. To get an idea of this, take a look at the wire gauge running back from the BLACK wire (from your headlight socket) to your ground loom. You'll note in most cases it to be a 16Ga wire. Barely adequate when new. Also, the wires that feed the headlights go through a series of switches and relays, through the fuse box (a couple times!) then out to the headlights. Too many breaks for a wire that carries nearly 6 amps or more.

The insertable headlight harness connects voltage directly from your battery, through 1 relay, to your headlight. Much less voltage loss and much easier on your entire electrical system. Plus, the wire gauge is greater (12Ga) going to your ground loom. (headlight)

OK, time for me to step off the podium now! Haha! :hammer:
 
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Late model high beam relay

The stock high beam relay on the late model cars circumvents the headlight switch but does not circumvent the ignition switch.

Adding a relay to the highbeam circuit, if done correctly, can avoid running load through the ignition switch for the high beams (one of the largest draws through the switch) and preserve the relatively delicate switch.

Once your headlights are properly relayed, the BWM only makes things that run on switched power better, think heater fan and power windows..
 
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