can a shop hoist be used to lift the back of the car?

E

ej22tgc8

Guest
I am going to change the gas tank in my '79. It is full of rust... Anyway, I know that the car has to be raised atleast 18 inches to drop the gas tank. I was wondering if anyone has used a shop hoist to lift the back of the car? If so, where did you attach it?

John
 
Not sure but some ideas...

Usual methods include removing bumper and bumper shocks and bolting to pipes in their places.

Also possible to use shock towers, but I'd be wary of those tiny bolts. This is the method for lifting the front of the Beta series Lancias for engine/subframe removal, but the strut bolts on the Beta are 4x8mm, not 3x6mm.

However you do it do not rely on gravity/friction alone to locate your lift point(s), it should be bolted securely to avoid slipping and subsequent damage and injury!
 
I have used...

.. a cherry-picker (engine hoist) chained around the rear bumper shocks (chains wrapped in towels to avoid scratching/damaging anything) to lift the body up high enough to get the engine out from under before. This was during an engine/trans removal and the lump was disconnected and lowered down out of the bay first to the floor, then the engineless body lifted off of it as above, so I do not know whether added weight of trying to lift it with engine still in would be a riskier deal? Hope someone here who knows more than I on it can chime in...
 
Cement blocks at Home depot

Not a quick solution, but a relatively safe one.
Jack up the car and build up the height using cement blocks.
The blocks are cheap and you can work the car up 3 blocks high.
12 blocks or so will run you about 20 bucks.
Good luck and stay safe.
 
maybe a hoist like mac said !

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phil
 
block tip!

I'm going to try that in the new 'mancave' on my '75 carcass!

Sounds like a slow, good, cheap, safe tip! :clap:
 
Stacking method does matter!

If you're using standard 8"x8"x16" CMUs, or Concrete Masonry Units, aka "cinder blocks", it does matter. They must be stacked with the interior holes running top to bottom. In this way the sides are solid and provide the greatest strength. Resist any temptation to stack them on their sides, as they can break and collapse without warning.

Flat 8"x16" pavers can be added in small amounts to get the height just right, and they are solid, usually 2" thick.

Any blocks that are cracked or very banged up should be passed over for very nice looking ones, they are strong but brittle.
 
yep

except on mine they were bolted around the tube style bumber shocks, but same deal... I dont know whether this method would be advisable for the tank removal with engine in though, uncertain whether those shocks could take the extra weight, I hesitate to try it myself... :confuse2: matter of fact I should have probably not even done it that way at all (at the time I was desperate) but instead pull the bumpers and fab some more solid attachment mounts like Gregory mentioned... then it might?
 
good info

That is what I was wanting to know, thanks guys!

I am looking forward to trying it out on my '75 as I had already been puzzling some how I was going to do underside work in a confined "small" one car garage... but want to make sure I do it safely :)

SO would this work out then for John's tank removal as well? Sounds like it would give enough clearance...
 
Use the 2 tow eyes, under the bumper dampers

It's just visible in the B&W photo. Connect the two eyes with a chain to a load leveler (to level the car as it goes up)and hoist and it should be good to go.
 
eyes

on my car (iirc) one of mine was tweaked or I couldnt get the bolt through... smart guy (or lady :cool:), gets the right bolt, not so smart guy (me) wrapped it around the shock tube :dunce: it did work, but it was probably not my best (or safest) moment :whistle:
 
It is possible the bumper damper could pull apart.....Oooops :wall:

If ya got to do this, remove the bumper and damper and connect the lift device to the bolt inside the tube that holds the damper in place.

Oh, one more thing. When connecting to the tow eyes, it is preferable to use a clevis in double shear on the tow eye. This will provide a more secure and stable connection. There is less chance of bending the tow eye too.


Mac said:
(me) wrapped it around the shock tube :dunce: it did work, but it was probably not my best (or safest) moment :whistle:
Click to expand...
 
MAC... PLEASE don't use cinder blocks...

I haven't seen one fail but I just don't like them.

I used some good CHINESE jack stands on all four corners just inside the rocker panels. Makes for a very stable platform and I even ran the engine up on all fours.

It will serve you for everything BUT dropping the gas tank and puts it up at a great working height... next best thing to a rotisserie.

I guess you can use the blocks temporarily to pull a tank... just be safe... we still need you here.
 
fear not :)

After all the stuff I've been through with that car over the years, the last thing I am going to let happen is to have it fall on me while I am laying under it! :shock2:

IF I do try it I'm planning to conduct a number of experiments before trusting it enough to even stick my foot under there. I already have several jackstands too but they do not get the car as far up as I need it. I also am considering other alternatives as well, but whatever I end up doing, you can be sure I'm not going to let it fall "on" me. I can get another car, cant get another noggin :mallet:

I've done some silly things in the shop, maybe even dropped an old Honda or two off the floor jack :whistle: but crawling UNDER a car that could drop is the one thing I've never let myself even chance... even with the cherrypicker I had the engine on a big piece of rug and just pulled it outta there from behind the car...

I do appreciate the fact you want me to live though! I agree! :D ;)
 
Only 4 blocks would be needed. Two stacked on each side would add up to 15-1/4" of platform under each of the two rear wheels.

Everyone is thinking of this in relation to removing the engine, which necessitates removal of the drivetrain and the first thing to come off are the tires.

If the engine and drivetrain are staying in and the only thing coming out is the tank, then there's no need to remove the rear wheels.
 
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