carberator problems=(

R

raph406

Low Mileage
hi im from montana i just bought a '79 x/19
anyhow ive got it running with some fuel systems work and clutch work.
but now ive found two problems with the Carberator.
the first one is that the vaccum operated secondary will not open by vaccum, i can open it by hand, i looked at the diaphram and it looks in great shape? any ideas, could a vaccum passage be clogged?


ok now for the second one.
On the automatic tempature controled choke, it does not work...at all. i took off the coolant lines and cover, there is coolant flowing and no corrosion, the bimetel strip looks in good shape. but i found that where that ends and should connect to the choke arm it doesnt, they are on the same shaft. but are just kind of loose next to each other. it doesnt work at all.

oh one more thing. the carb when idleing randomly revs, then drops, and dies?
this usualy goes away, but still is a nussince.
Any help would be greatly apprecheated

Thanks again:)
 
Welcome raph406

I used to have the same carb on my 1980 X, and, having worked on these when they were new in 1979, can offer you the following advice. Dump that 28/30 vacuum secondaqry carb and replace it with a 32 DATR carb with mechanical secondaries. If you really want to keep your car completely stock, you could probably rebuild/clean up that carb and get it to work (for a while), but it is a very problematic carb (you'll probably find a bunch of people, like me, who will give you their old 28/30 carb). The 32 DATR carbs are readily available, eliminate the whole vacuum mess, and work much better.
Good luck,
Dave
 
Welcome...

... and I wholeheartedly SECOND what DAVE said... and have done EXACTLY what he said. Cost me 15 bucks...

But I digress for a moment...

The vacuum secondary... If you apply a vacuum to the carb (by mouth or by pump) can you get the secondary linkage to work? The vacuum supplied by the engine must go throught a 3 way valve and that happens ONLY after the engine operating temp is reached. BUT, most 3 way valves nowadays are DEFECTIVE. You can prove the problem in or out of the valve by bypassing it.

I would NEVER recommend eliminating a smog control device such as this... but this also controls the vacuum advance and the gulp valve operation... all of which is essentially eliminated once the engine reaches temperature.

Saddly though, all of mine FELL off my car sometime back... and I haven't been able to find it since...

As for the choke issue... I haven't been inside one for some time but go to the WIKI portion of this site or the 1.0 version and to BEST OF and look up the Weber Carb diagrams. It will show you how they should go together. You could also convert to a manual choke, kinda like the '74s had, but I would find a way to repair the auto choke. As a last resort, I have some parts off a 28/30 carb if you need them.

Sorry for your trouble... I know how dickin' with these carbs can be frustrating but once done and kept reasonably clean, they work fairly well. Once fixed, I'd also recommend a K&N filter, 2710 I believe, fits in the stock can... and cut back the snorkel for a larger inlet... more ideas, if and when... let us know...
 
First of all thanks both of you. I would realy like to find the carb you mentioned, when i bought my fiat(very recently) i found an old international auto parts catalog. which had i think that carb for sale.
Do you know where i could find a good one? i'm a highschool student with many a prodjects, such as this fiat, an alfa romeo spider=) and a stupid toyota 4runner=(. Would that carb fit on the existing manifold? i have a Weber 40 DCOE that is still in the box, i beleive it they were used on alot of alfas, if you would know anybody interested in trades.
Ill take a look for that 3 way vacuum piece. i am probably get a K&N filter, and lop off a piece of the airfilter box. I was thinking to maybe channel the intake into the air ducts on the side of the car, for cooler air then the engine bay?
Thanks again for the help.
 
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