tvmaster

True Classic
Hi. I’ve searched here and elsewhere using the term ‘center console removal’ and have found nothing. Even tried spelling center ‘centre’.
There were some old threads, but most of the links in those threads are dead, pictures gone, etc.
Nothing in the service manual either.

Is it simpler than I think it is? There are two Phillips screws on each side, and two behind the shifter.
Remove the heating sliders - but it’s still VERY snug.

What am I missing - again, I don’t like to yank on things with force unless I‘m sure that’s the way it’s supposed to be done.
Pictures or video always help, but words work too :)

Reason: cigarette lighter is dead, and thumb wheel rheostat does nothing, so we’re investigating.
 
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I don’t recall any.

Now that you have removed it you could at the very least write about what you did with a description of what you ran into that made it difficult etc.

Sorry we couldnt be of more assistance.

Karl


Hi. I’ve searched here and elsewhere using the term ‘center console removal’ and have found nothing. Even tried spelling center ‘centre’.
There were some old threads, but most of the links in those threads are dead, pictures gone, etc.
Nothing in the service manual either.

Is it simpler than I think it is? There are two Phillips screws on each side, and two behind the shifter.
Remove the heating sliders - but it’s still VERY snug.

What am I missing - again, I don’t like to yank on things with force unless I‘m sure that’s the way it’s supposed to be done.
Pictures or video always help, but words work too :)

Reason: cigarette lighter is dead, and thumb wheel rheostat does nothing, so we’re investigating.
 
No problem. I’ll add some photos later. Six screws. Two on each side and two behind the shifter. Take those out, lower the parking brake to half-way, as the console kinda needs to rise up and over the brake handle when jiggling it out. I gently pried each side outward and slowly pulled, wiggled and jostled the unscrewed console.

Oh, first I removed the ashtray and ashtray frame. Also removed the three, heater handles by just gently pulling backward.

One must be careful to not pull to forcefully, as you may rip the fiber-optic feeds out of the bottom of each switch/button, as they may be attached permanently somehow.

Once I got it a couple of inches out, I could stick my cell phone camera down inside and snapped some pics.

Here‘s the problem I found, which I may have to search/post about independently: it would appear that the fiber-optic system is getting absolutely NO POWER. All fuses check out. Also, the cigarette lighter is dead.

It would appear the fiber-system and buttons are getting power independent of each other.

But all the switches actually work, save for the rheostat. It’s a very confusing electrical setup, although I’m hoping someone reads this and explains it. I will start going thru the electric schematics and see if I can figure out why ALL buttons/blower are working, but the fiber-optic system isn’t. I checked the bulbs as well, and they’re good.

For those thinking of sticking a LED in the fiber-optic tube, measure before purchasing, as the ones I bought are jussssst a little too thick. Also watch length too, as I imagine you’d want the entire bulb submerged in the enclosure.

There‘s still one, confusing item: a second, bayonet, 4w bulb, which was just hanging loose at the end of a 14” wire.
Some say it’s for illuminating the cigarette lighter rim, but there’s no apparent connection point attached to the lighter.
I still think it goes in the other side of the fiber-optic gateway, but since the fiber-system has no power, or the lights, I can’t be sure.

ANYONE know why the fiber system/bulbs/lighter are dead?

And, if you’re a klutz like me, put something like paper underneath the shifter opening, leading into the lost channels of the frame which appears when you move the console. It’s amazingly easy to drop a switch cover, etc. into that opening. And it isn’t easy retrieval. Don’t ask :)

EBC47AD2-AE8E-439E-A5F8-D0648B59453E.jpeg
 
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Have you checked for voltage with the system on between the power lead and chassis ground? I think there may be ground lugs on the bulb sockets that need to be connected to the ground leads. Since you have the schematic, you can follow it all the way back to the fuse panel with a voltmeter and see where the problem is. Also, the center console lights only come on with the exterior lights so make sure you have those on.
 
Have you checked for voltage with the system on between the power lead and chassis ground? I think there may be ground lugs on the bulb sockets that need to be connected to the ground leads. Since you have the schematic, you can follow it all the way back to the fuse panel with a voltmeter and see where the problem is. Also, the center console lights only come on with the exterior lights so make sure you have those on.
Everything checks out BUT the fiber-system/lighter power. Everything. Well, besides the reverse lights, which has a severed wire feeding the transmission under the car.
I‘m not sure I understand your first sentence, but I’ll mull it over and see if a light bulb comes on. Haha. Pun intended. When you say ‘ground lugs’ and ‘ground leads’, where are these located, behind and within the center panel area?

PS - I’ve had the headlights on a few times, but never noticed those bulbs at the end of the wires light up...
 
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Yes. I'm pretty sure there is at least one of those bulbs has a lug on the socket that a ground connector goes on. Should be in the general vicinity behind the panel.
 
Yes. I'm pretty sure there is at least one of those bulbs has a lug on the socket that a ground connector goes on. Should be in the general vicinity behind the panel.
Ok, mystery #1 solved. There was a blade connector unconnected on the floor. Further investigation of the schematic showed the lighter having TWO connections. I slid the blade on the wanting lighter post, and voila! Lighter power!

Now, the important mystery I havent solved - no power to the fiber bulbs...

032B1593-EF98-4952-B22F-AA15DBE475C1.jpeg
47F34F11-CBEE-45BA-88F6-F2326D5C50E2.jpeg
 
Thanks for posting some notes around removing the early center console, nice write up.


You might want to get some insulating tape or shrink tubing on that red wire so it doesn’t short out. I would normally have a plastic cover over that portion to protect it.

Following the power wire back through the system is the way you will find your problem.

A suggestion, I would get the wiring diagram for your car printed at a very large scale to put on your garage wall so you can easily trace what is going where. I think they have your diagram as a digital file over at MiraFiori.com where you can become a member like here and have access to their library and another group of really old line Fiat owners. They are a bit more 124 centric but it is a great group with tons of knowledge and experience.

Working on most of the X electrical system, particularly on the early cars, is fundamentally simple. Power to something and a ground to return that power to the battery, with methodical stepping through the connections will generally resolve or identify a problem. Understanding the flow of power from the battery to the fuse box or infused circuits is the critical factor.

Working back from the connector to the wire leading to the lighting will allow you to find where you are losing the connection. Two very cheap and easy to use tools would help you in doing this. A continuity tester which you connect at each end of a wire or run of wire to see if there is a continuous connection and a simple test light. Both are cheap and can be bought at NAPA, Amazon or another parts purveyor. A meter would also be good for to have to actually measure the avialable voltage, most of these now have a continuity circuit which beeps when continuity exists which allows you to be a distance away from a connection and know you have continuity through a circuit. Having all three would be best to easily work on the electrical system.

This all goes with my other post about cleaning grounds and then connections to components in the system.

I hope this helps. I apologize if I am stating the obvious.

Karl
 
Here is a schematic from the 1974 US service manual.
 

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