Brett
True Classic
Finally got some time to work on this again today. (and Rod, thanks for the offer, I have another running X to compare to, so fine there).
Much more bleeding, still not working. I have increased my confidence in our bleeding though (the old fashioned way) because we accidentally let the reservoir get low and introduced air into the system and then bled more and pushed *that* air out which was quite evident in the bubbles in the line to get back to the *exact* same point we were, which is that when we've done bleeding to where we consistently get no bubbles in the line attached to the bleed screw, we always end up with the clutch arm about 1/2 way between the back of the metal tab thing on the trans and the end of the bell housing. Which isn't quite far enough to engage the clutch fully (quick test is rocking the car with it in gear and clutch depressed).
If I pull the floor stop, clutch works fine. Comparing to the other car, we think there is a /slight/ bit more movement of the cylinder in the master before the slave starts moving compared to the car with working clutch. Hard to say for 100% certain as I can effect that by adjusting where the clutch pedal starts. We even did several bleed cycles with the clutch configured with floor stop removed (thinking maybe the longer throw with floor stop removed might push more air, or exercise a different part of the system that might have trapped air - but no additional air came out). Also, there does NOT seem to be any leakage from an "overextended" slave cylinder.
With floor stop removed, clutch arm stops with the forward edges of the curve even with the back of the bell housing, I would say just a tiny bit farther that Hussein's "fully depressed" pic above.
Current thoughts, replace floor stop with a small stack of washers and a shorter bolt so that the clutch pedal goes closer to floor and the clutch arm stops right where Hussein's pic shows. Else, I give up and take this to a trans shop. Which I am loathe to do because I don't trust that anyone local shop would understand the nuances of our cars. But I am at wits end. We bleed about 20 clutch depresses *past* any air bubbles coming out at all. Or there is something wrong with the new master cylinder (I get that the fact that we can seem to get some compression in the master before the slave starts moving could be air in the lines that is compressing, but if we bleed as much as we have, and get no air bubbles for ~20 cycles, I don't think how there can be air in there. Especially where if we do something where air *is* introduced, we know it and can chase it out).
(I just replaced the front brake cylinders on our other X, used the same bleeding procedure and the brakes are great).
Any reason to NOT replace the floor stop as described above? I worry about overextending the slave cylinder and/or even the clutch arm if it all of sudden decides to work like it's designed...
Much more bleeding, still not working. I have increased my confidence in our bleeding though (the old fashioned way) because we accidentally let the reservoir get low and introduced air into the system and then bled more and pushed *that* air out which was quite evident in the bubbles in the line to get back to the *exact* same point we were, which is that when we've done bleeding to where we consistently get no bubbles in the line attached to the bleed screw, we always end up with the clutch arm about 1/2 way between the back of the metal tab thing on the trans and the end of the bell housing. Which isn't quite far enough to engage the clutch fully (quick test is rocking the car with it in gear and clutch depressed).
If I pull the floor stop, clutch works fine. Comparing to the other car, we think there is a /slight/ bit more movement of the cylinder in the master before the slave starts moving compared to the car with working clutch. Hard to say for 100% certain as I can effect that by adjusting where the clutch pedal starts. We even did several bleed cycles with the clutch configured with floor stop removed (thinking maybe the longer throw with floor stop removed might push more air, or exercise a different part of the system that might have trapped air - but no additional air came out). Also, there does NOT seem to be any leakage from an "overextended" slave cylinder.
With floor stop removed, clutch arm stops with the forward edges of the curve even with the back of the bell housing, I would say just a tiny bit farther that Hussein's "fully depressed" pic above.
Current thoughts, replace floor stop with a small stack of washers and a shorter bolt so that the clutch pedal goes closer to floor and the clutch arm stops right where Hussein's pic shows. Else, I give up and take this to a trans shop. Which I am loathe to do because I don't trust that anyone local shop would understand the nuances of our cars. But I am at wits end. We bleed about 20 clutch depresses *past* any air bubbles coming out at all. Or there is something wrong with the new master cylinder (I get that the fact that we can seem to get some compression in the master before the slave starts moving could be air in the lines that is compressing, but if we bleed as much as we have, and get no air bubbles for ~20 cycles, I don't think how there can be air in there. Especially where if we do something where air *is* introduced, we know it and can chase it out).
(I just replaced the front brake cylinders on our other X, used the same bleeding procedure and the brakes are great).
Any reason to NOT replace the floor stop as described above? I worry about overextending the slave cylinder and/or even the clutch arm if it all of sudden decides to work like it's designed...
