CNC work needed

BEEK

True Classic
Is there anyone here that can take a drawing with dimensions and produce a CNC part from it? If so PM me please!

Aluminum part, can be made out of 4" x 4" x 4" (block) piece of material, I have the material.
 
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Part drawing in CAD or paper? Either will require programming for cnc production and tooling and set up. No small effort for a single part.
Typical shop cost per hour runs anywhere from $60 to $300 per hour plus tooling cost.

Alternative is to find a maker-space that has a suitable cnc machine where the part needed can be DIY once all the stuff required to run the part on the cnc machine is learned. Or post the request to a machinist forum like https://www.practicalmachinist.com/


Bernice
 
I agree with Bernice except for posting on Practical Machinist. I am on there and they are group of grumpy a$$ess that have no patience for hobbyist and one off parts. Look for a hobby machinist forum and you are likely to find someone near you.
Just my 2 cents
 
I agree with Bernice except for posting on Practical Machinist. I am on there and they are group of grumpy a$$ess that have no patience for hobbyist and one off parts. Look for a hobby machinist forum and you are likely to find someone near you.
Just my 2 cents
Yep, and how PM has changed.. Quite divided between working shop owners that do not have time for that "brand" of fixed in their ways machinist or retired machinist that are stuck in their ways..

There are a few that can be helpful..

Not gonna do that forum...
Bernice
 
Does it have to be cnc? Maybe machine it with traditional machining.

Got some pics of the part that’s needed and what it’s for? Maybe grow it out of plastic?
 
I have a CNC 3 axis machine that I use Cam Bam to draw with to make a part. It has a feature that converts the drawing to G Code. The issue I have is that I don't use the software to draw a part very often and have to use the instruction video's to draw the part and learn the program again. That takes me hours to do this, just because I am not familier with the software If you have the G code that is a big help. Also the size of the part is a limiting factor as well. The table size and axis travel requires a machine that can hold the part blank. When I retire in 3 months I was considering doing custom work for one off parts. Not to get rich, but just something to do with all of the equipment I have in my shop. ( I can't get good at something unless I have the need to do it. ) I would say show us a picture of what you want and then I and others can decide if it can be made by traditional methods or CNC is the way to go.

I have some parts that I make CNC and that is because from time to time I need to make that part again, like the attachments for the reproduction aluminum grills that I make. It is repetitive and a chore to make over and over.

Also a casting is sometimes a better route to go if the part is made of aluminum. Then some simple machining to do the finishing.

TonyK.

Grimsby Ontario Canada
 
Is there anyone here that can take a drawing with dimensions and produce a CNC part from it? If so PM me please!

Aluminum part, can be made out of 4" x 4" x 4" (block) piece of material, I have the material.
I have used a guy in Michigan who has made some custom parts for a 1970s sports racer I am restoring. He took some basic drawings, old parts, and measurements and created CNC parts. Not cheap, but high quality work, and he specializes in one-off stuff for restorations and race cars. Rob Ritt - pm me for email and phone number
Marc in Indy
 
Hey I am a full time tool and die maker trying to start my own shop on the side. I would be interested in helping you make this.
 
To stay on-topic. If you don’t mind sharing the drawing you have, it may help us guide you on getting it made.
 
Dry sump oil pump mount for a DOHC. I have someone working on a 3d printed version right now, I am so thankful for the help. Im going to test fit the 3d printed version, then figure out about an aluminum version.
 

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Dry sump oil pump mount for a DOHC. I have someone working on a 3d printed version right now, I am so thankful for the help. Im going to test fit the 3d printed version, then figure out about an aluminum version.
Looks like a simple part. Anyone with a manual mill could make that. Depending on tolerances, you could make it with a saw or grinder and a drill.
 
Notes for this drawing..

~Do not use fractions for dimensioning.. they will need to be converted to decimals or mm by the folks making this part.

~Part orientation/views are 🙀
Take the time to read this short on drawing views.
https://viva.pressbooks.pub/introegrdesign/chapter/drawings/

~Where is the datum?
~Missing dimensions, missing angle call-outs.
~Do NOT mix mm with fractions or decimal "imperial" dimensions. Use "imperial" decimals or mm.
~Tolerances, tighter the tolerance, more frustration for the folks making this part. Another reasons why fractions are ~Meh~ they do not allow
easy tolerance specifications.. example, 355/113 = ... to how many decimal places?
~Clearances, will it fit for all possible variations of how this part is made and the matching part?
~Use industry standard drills, clearances and related.. Don't "invent" dimensions or holes or threads or ... they cause massive grief unless there is
an extremely valid reasons to deviate from industry standards.
~Material spec.
~Part finish.

~The sharp transition shoulder should be absolutely avoided unless there is a very, very, very good reason for that sharp transition. This is an invitation for a stress riser failure at that transition. Make that a radius large as possible.

~Rounded corners are nice, they add machine time and complexity. If they are not needed, the basic small chamfered corner is easier to make and does not incur the issues with rounded corners.

~~Oh, every mech part drawing must have this note, "Break All Sharp Edges."

~And yes, this part could be done on a Bridgeport or similar manual mill about an hour with modifications for manufacturability and all needed tooling ready.

Keep this video in mind...


Part drawings are legal contracts/documents with details that matter..
Bernice
 
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I vote for chopping it out of an aluminum block with a table saw and using a twist drill for the holes. Sand with a block sander if looks are important. Bonus points for pink paint.
 
I vote for chopping it out of an aluminum block with a table saw and using a twist drill for the holes. Sand with a block sander if looks are important. Bonus points for pink paint.
Depends on how the part is used.. in theory, block chopping with a table saw or band saw then center punch/drill can work... surprisingly good IF the demands on the part is within the limits of those fab methods.

Bernice
 
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