Conversion to Monte Front part 3

Rupunzell

Bernice Loui
Headlight bulb holes got flanged to increase the strength and rigidity of the sheetmetal with the hole.
Made a flanging die out of aluminum as this is a use twice item once done. Die was made to fit and work with
the hydraulic hole punch.
Monte HL hole flanging die.JPG


Flanging die applied to hole.
IMG_5870.JPG


Zinc Phosphate primer after deburr.
IMG_5875.JPG


On to making and installing a patch bracket for the slot where the rusty area in
the battery area dissolved the sheet metal.
Lacnia# 209, slot to be fixed.JPG


Patch bracket made of 0.80mm thick 304 stainless steel. Bend is needed to fit the shape of the sheet metal in that area. This required a compound cut-bend. Note the cut area to a hole and silver soldered strap to reinforce where the top cut was made to strengthen the part.
Lancia# 209, SST_bkt.JPG


Those who have worked on aircraft air frames would recognize these tools.
Lancia# 209, drilling# 30 holes.JPG


Holes drilled, de-burred, cleaned up.
Lancia# 209, holes drilled:deburr.JPG


Bracket installed with seam sealer. Screws and prevailing torque nuts applied.
No welding, all holes, fab edges deburred, more zinc phosphate primer.
Lancia# 209, bkt seam sealed.JPG


The back side.
Lancia# 209, bkt done, back.JPG


What this area looked like at the beginning of this fix.
Lancia battery box, 6.16.20, rotated.JPG



Just about ready for paint in this area. Once that is done, brackets goes in for a test
fit then on to the rear bumper.


Bernice
 
Hydro punch being used on# 209.
Lancia# 209 headight conv_hyd P pump.JPG


The cylinder with punch.
Lancia# 209 headight conv_hyd punch piston.JPG


This eBay item.

Note, the M20 x1.5 internally threaded hole was undersize requiring
that internally threaded hole to be re-tapped. That plus needing to add some hydro
oil and bleeding air out of the pistons, it works surprisingly good.
Real bargain in many ways.

Bernice


Please share a photo of your portable hydraulic hole punch tool Bernice!
 
This hydro punch came about after realizing the hole needed for the headlamp conversion on the Monte. Initially the idea of using a screw drive punch occurred, but knowing the amount of force involved made a screw drive punch not appealing at all. Went looking for a hydro punch that would get this did on eBay, happened across this one, ordered it. Knowing this has a pull type hydro cylinder, it can used as a puller for bearings and such. That pull hydro cylinder allowed making a flaring die to flare these holes. at some point, I'll make puller bits for this as needed. One place on the exxe where a pull hydro cylinder can be applied very effectively as a puller, removing and installing rear A-arm bushings and there are plenty of bearing remove-installs that can be made to work with a pull hydro cylinder.

Proper tools not only allow a job-need to get done properly, they are an investment into future projects in many ways or a technical resource to be applied as needed with some creativity and creation. Monetary cost for this hydro punch is not a lot given what can be
done with it.

BTW, the most useful tools in the shop are the lathe & milling machine with all their related tooling. If not for this, an awful lot of things could never be. Challenge is, there is significant skill required to get the very most out of any machine tool and related tooling.

Bernice

Bernice, you have so many nice tools! Things I didn't even know existed!
 
Challenge is, there is significant skill required to get the very most out of any machine tool and related tooling.

Bernice
OK. So I'm probably at screwdriver-level. Now, which way is this to unscrew that thing that have a "plus" side on the head? 🤪
 
Heh,... that cam out screw head special was indeed a Canadian (Robertson) invention. Phillips pinched, FORD motor purchased the intellectual property rights to it .. eventually Phillips "Screw" Corp. Made derivatives (Pozidrive, Supadriv, Torq-set, Mortorq and..) with lower tendency to cam-out destroying the screw head causing untold grief by those who wield a "Phillips" screwdriver.

Course Japan took matters in to their own and produced their JIS version.

Not to be out done, the French cooked up their own "French Recess via Air-Bus.

Then Tri-Wing via Lockheed, Mc Donnell Douglas, and ...

Bernice
 
Really interesting. I didn't knew Robertson was a Canadian, neither that there is not many Robertson screwdrivers and screws in the US. Is that still true? All my wood screws are Robertson type.
 
Really interesting. I didn't knew Robertson was a Canadian, neither that there is not many Robertson screwdrivers and screws in the US. Is that still true? All my wood screws are Robertson type.

Yes they are used, I have drywall screws which are Robertson/square drive.

My company uses a specialized wood screw that is a combination of Robertson and Philips. As they are easy to direct into holes in brackets, they work well for our installers. Being both philips and square drive it doesn’t matter which tool tip they have handy.

Robertson head screws are nice as they cam out less, stay on the bit better and offer better control of centering the screw as they engage the tool much better than a Philips.

Fasteners are fascinating.
 
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Very interesting! So Robertson are a square-drive? I didn't quite get that from the video. I just remember cursing using flat-head wood screws in high school wood-shop. Phillips-head just made so much more sense. Torx, even better! :D
 
In our basement we had boxes of NOS wood slotted head wood screws.
Those things are aweful.
They have a super shallow slot that is almost impossible to really use.
They all went to the metal pile.
8BFF80A7-8018-4B5A-A6BC-49260A170691.jpeg
 
There remains a HUGE number of Phillips head screws on aircraft to this day that were designed in from decades ago. Unlike cars, there are small aircraft that are decades old still air worthy and fly daily. Dealing with any aircraft that was built using Phillips head screws that could be decades old requires drilling out the cam-out Phillips head screws which is no fun at all given the damage drilling out screws can produce. Unlike motos, aircraft are built with LOTS of smaller fasters from# 8, the most common would be a from a# 10 or about M5 to 1/4" or M6 which is typically the largest commonly used fasters size. To deal with stuck Phillips head screws meet "El Brutus ( Johnson Bar )."

Similar applies to Torque-set, French Recess and along list of recessed head screws.

Torx works due to the non-angled sides and rounded profile resulting a reasonable drive contact area. This is prime reasons Torx screws don't cam out that easy. The square drive Robertson also has a slight taper to the drive bit. This is done to promote ease of driver to screw recess engagement and a more positive engagement between fastener and driver. Difficulty with the square drive Robertson, the drive bit must be properly seated into the screw head recess, if not properly seated, it will rip out the square drive in the screw head.

The most common# 10-32 screw in the shop that is used for the vast majority of non-structural parts as replacement in various ways are
NAS1096 or the higher strength NAS1801. While these have a Phillips head, they have a external hex head allowing significant torque to be applied if need. The Phillips makes them easier to get started and run down to the assembly, then the hex allows torquing them down as needed. These are real Cadmium plated making them a LOT more rust-corrosion resistant than common zinc plating. If the screw is non structural, stainless steel threaded fastener is the alternative. These screws are not expensive and are very common on eBay in quantity. And no, if they were used previously in a given project, once the screw is removed, it is usually tossed and replaced with a new screw unless the screw is a really GOOD condition.
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Bernice
 

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