CV joint bolts

Ananda

Ananda

True Classic
I finally got around to diving into CV joint/boot replacement and just noticed, right after I pulled out the axle, that it’s recommended to replace the CV joint bolts. Opinions on how important it is to replace these with new ones? Although it may take me long enough to figure out how to replace the joint and boot that waiting for a package from Midwest Bayless may not be a problem, I was hoping I could get it done today.
 
I have reused then in the past. It likely is not preferred but it worked. Ensure the threads are grease free in both the housing and the fasteners and consider using loctite blue to ensure they stay.

Just monitor them as some have had them walk out.

Bernice will be by shortly to roundly counter my poor mechanicing
 
I've resused them, for testing puposes, but always gone back and replaced them after I was sure I wasn't going to be removing the CV joints anytime soon.

Prior to my ownership, my '83 suffered an axle falling off due to CV joint bolts that backed out which cracked the transmission case. Had to repair the case . . .

Some people may scoff at this, but I've found that Home Depot stocks almost the exact same bolt (same grade, shank size, etc. The length is 1-2 mm longer, but not long enough to interfere with the transmission casing. If you're worried you can grind them down a bit). So if you're in a pinch and don't want to wait for shipping there's that option. They are cheap, but not sure how they compare to MWB prices.
 
Even on upgraded engines I haven't heard of any CV bolts actually failing. Only coming loose as the others have mentioned. The other method to assure they stay tight (aside from LocTite) is to drill a hole through each head and safety-wire them once installed.
 
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Work in progress. The anxiety of not knowing what I’m doing always makes me put off doing even jobs that are supposed to be easy. I am still learning the alphabet of this kind of work so nothing is obvious or as straight forward as I wish. Here are some pics to be commented on if anybody wishes to. Any advice for even the most rudimentary aspect of the job is welcomed, even criticism is extremely welcome. Whatever helps me get better at this.
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Anandastar said:
I am still learning the alphabet of this kind of work so nothing is obvious or as straight forward as I wish.
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That's how you learn to do it, by doing it. Just clean things well and then lube them well with proper type lube. If you have specific questions on the steps, try reviewing the workshop manual or post them here.
And don't get anxiety over it, the worst that could happen is it fails when you are driving 100 MPH and have a bad crash (joking). ;)
 
The light spot of dried stuff on the bolt pictured above, I am assuming is loctite or something of that nature. Is that how it would be applied, one spot of it lower middle of the threads?
 
As Steve Holscher has pointed out before, Loctite needs a completely grease free thread to work.
This is hard to achieve on a CV joint.
I have used VW bolts which are slightly longer and have a multi-point head (forgot what it‘s called in english). This works great with a pair of Nordlock washers.
When undoing these, it is quite hard to break them free and they do so with a snap that sounds like the bolt snapped.
I don‘t think they will come loose in the long run.
 
I bought my bolts at Grainger. I reused the bolts the first time I replaced a boot and the bolts did fall out even though they were set with a torque wrench. Cheap insurance not to be stranded.
 
I have reused the CV bolts and have bought new ones when the socket head got to wallowed out.
I have had the bolts come loose and back out so drilled the heads and wired them.
 
I am trying to get a sense of what the wired up bolts look like. What do you wire them to?
 
Im putting my CVs back together soon and safety wiring all my bolts. When Im done Ill post pics. But a good tip is to find some tubing close to the bolt head size and drill it first with as small a hole as possible and then slide the bolt into the tube using it as a drill guide. Clamp the tube and use a drill press to drill the heads preferably center to one of the inner flat bits of the hex. Also saftey wire pliers are pretty mandatory but not ablsooolutley necessary.

You wire them to themselves ie the other bolts

Also I like your curbside repair! Im in a cush garage right now but most of my work is done curbside:D
 
So here's a question . . . I always assumed the advice to replace the bolts every time they are removed is because the original bolts were torque to yield. Is this true? Or is there some other reason?
 
I have used the OE CV bolts over and over and over and never had a problem. Ever. On dozens of cars. Nor do I use loctite. Just torque them properly.

Early on, I had heard they should be replaced too and though I had never had an issue I decided that I was doing the job right this time and ordered brand new bolts from a vendor. They came in a Fiat package with a Fiat part number. And the heads twisted off as I torqued them. Every single one. So I put the old ones back and never gave it another thought.

I use a cordless impact gun for this as it is easier and less likely to strip the allen screws than a hand ratchet. Be sure the allen screw heads are clean so the bit can bottom out and fit properly. And keep some force on the ratchet to keep the bit fully seated. A cheap allen wrench will almost guarantee you will strip one or more out. I purchased a Snap-On allen bit for just for this job to ensure I had a quality tool.
 
Anandastar said:
I am trying to get a sense of what the wired up bolts look like. What do you wire them to?
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Didn't want to crawl under the car to try and take a picture so here is a ruff drawing.
I drilled two 1/16 holes crosswise so there would be a better chance of getting the wire in a straight line.
It doesn't have to be real tight, just snug.
Can't remember where I got the wire but it is like bailing wire except smaller gage.
wire.jpg
 
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