Different E-brake access hole, who did this?

carl

carl

True Classic
There was a thread in the last year about providing an access hole in the emergency brake cable mounting plate so that a deep socket could be used to tighten the cables. Was it Dr. Jeff? Can anyone find the thread as I'm about to make that mod after spending a whole morning turning the adjusting nut 1/2 flat at a time through the factory hole and then having to undo it when I realized there must be something wrong as I could not get the ebrakes to work.
 
I recall the discussion you are referring to but it wasn't me, and unfortunately don't recall who it was. I haven't gotten far enough on my repairs to do the park-brake cables yet. But be sure to post it again when you find it because I'll likely be doing the same mod.
 
presumably it involved drilling a hole in the surface of this plate - where the rod points at it in normal installed position should be pretty much central in the vertical area adjacent to the shift arm guide

X19_0345.jpg


X19_0345a.jpg
 
It is really unnecessary. A gear wrench works just fine in the opening provided. A standard wrench, obviously not so much.
 
Yea, looks like Darin did this mod, now we just need to hear from him. I jacked up my Bertone and took measurements of the e-brake arm in the relaxed and tensioned position so I can see what's going on with the 77. I have a feeling one of the cables is not seated on the plastic guide wheel.

I like the gear wrench idea but I'm not sure the factory opening provides enough room to slide mine on over the end of the rod. This whole job would be much easier on my buddy's lift than laying on the ground with the car on jackstands.
 
Regarding the access hole. I don't recall if the thread I referenced earlier was the one I was thinking of about this, or was there another one with more info? Try doing a search with only Darin's posts and see if he discussed it more elsewhere.


carl said:
This whole job would be much easier on my buddy's lift than laying on the ground with the car on jackstands.
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As with most jobs. I keep toying with ideas for various high-lift stands and jacks, but really I want a true lift. Unfortunately I'm currently living in a semi temporary situation for family reasons so getting one will have to wait.
 
carl said:
I like the gear wrench idea but I'm not sure the factory opening provides enough room to slide mine on over the end of the rod. This whole job would be much easier on my buddy's lift than laying on the ground with the car on jackstands.
Click to expand...
Gear wrench worked fine on my 87, but I was on a lift. The secret is "USE A LIFT". Call Tim or come say hi.
 
"but I was on a lift"
Todd, the car is supposed to go on the lift, not the guy.
 
carl said:
Yea, looks like Darin did this mod, now we just need to hear from him.
Click to expand...

I do have the mod (shown here as mentioned by Dr. Jeff) but I didn't do the mod: car came that way. Clearly the previous owner had some difficulties adjusting the handbrake as they even ended up cutting the access hole larger on the tunnel bottom:
Screen Shot 2018-07-02 at 12.16.23 PM.png

I had to weld that up:
Screen Shot 2018-07-02 at 12.16.49 PM.png

It makes sense that if you only have a spanner or box end wrench, you'd need that extra space. I think it was Rodger that was telling me that the hole in the tunnel end cover is a well known exxe mod.
 
This discussion is of particular interest to me. With the proposed redesign I'm considering for the cooling tubes, the access will be an issue. I want to locate the rear ends of the tubes away from the starter/engine/etc as they are stock. That means re-routing them straight out the back rather than 45 degrees to the passenger's side. However that places the tubes over the park-brake adjuster access. So I either need to make the tubes able to drop down enough to have access around them, or create a different access approach to the park brake adjuster. I might do both. Having the coolant tube tunnel removable (like you did Darin) is appealing to me. But that's still a lot of work just to adjust the cables (even though it isn't something that needs much attention once they are set correctly). Having a removable park-brake access cover-plate across the bottom is another thought. Mostly need to see how things end up when that time comes then decide. But thanks for all the ideas and discussion here.
 
darwoodious said:
I do have the mod (shown here as mentioned by Dr. Jeff) but I didn't do the mod: car came that way. Clearly the previous owner had some difficulties adjusting the handbrake as they even ended up cutting the access hole larger on the tunnel bottom:
View attachment 12761
I had to weld that up:
View attachment 12762
It makes sense that if you only have a spanner or box end wrench, you'd need that extra space. I think it was Rodger that was telling me that the hole in the tunnel end cover is a well known exxe mod.
Click to expand...

The "two cuts" method was what I did back in the dark ages.
Not wanting to mess with tunnel end cover pulleys/cables...& being ill-equipped (no lift or gear wrench),
the "two cuts" has merit for folks who just want to get the job done expediently.
 
The whole reason I started this thread is I was not getting the ebrake to work after installing new cables, rotors, pads and rebuilt calipers. I assumed the cables had fallen off the wheels since I could not energize the brakes. I took measurements of the caliper arms with and without the ebrake handle engaged and compared to the same measurements on my Bertone which did have the ebrake working (sort of like every other Fiat) and the measurements are the same so I guess using all new components and not having fluid in the system yet is causing the ebrake to not engage yet.

I'll try the gear wrench trick later when the car is running and the brakes have bedded in but reserve the right to make the end plate mod in the future. If I do, I'll report back.
 
Hi I recently rebuilt my rear calipers and could get the handbrake to work at all, I really didn't want to but had to take them apart again, although it's easier second time round! When rebuilding them I realised if you actuated the handbrake mechanism before you bring the pads up to the discs and bleeding, the piston moves out about 2mm and has 'self adjusted', you have to un screw the piston completely to reset, I didn't touch the mechanism until I had first bled the caliper and pressed the brake pedal very hard about 20 times (to be sure). If you didn't rebuild them yourself it's a PITA but do able. Don't apply pressure between the piston and handbrake rod with a clamp, I put a g clamp around the piston and a flat piece of steel against it to let the piston push out and not ruin the threads within. Need any help let us know
 
Ollie, to be clear you are saying to keep the pistons all the way in, don't touch the park brake lever, install and bleed them, then connect the park brake cable? Thanks.
 
Yeah that's correct, the handbrake rod with the seal that goes in the rear of the caliper has a high spot on one side of the 'pawl', this should be facing the rear.
 
I also found the cable adjusting nut really doesn't need to be very tight, as long as the mechanism is well greased
 
Well then, I guess I did what you said I shouldn't have done. Not a big deal, my buddy rebuilt the rear calipers and will be happy to check them out again especially if I get him some limoncello.
 
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