Do timing belts rot on the shelf?
- Thread starter EricH
- Start date
ng_randolph
Bjorn H
Toss 'em
Most service schedules I have seen recommed changing the timing belt at x miles or y years, whichever comes first. By that logic, your 10 year+ old "new" belts expired long ago. A new belt at Kragen will only set you back $23, so the risk / reward ratio is not kind to your old belts.
Most service schedules I have seen recommed changing the timing belt at x miles or y years, whichever comes first. By that logic, your 10 year+ old "new" belts expired long ago. A new belt at Kragen will only set you back $23, so the risk / reward ratio is not kind to your old belts.
fiatfactory
Steve Cecchele
Kept out of the sunlight (exposure to UV) and being stored flat with no kinks or folds would be the main concern, boxed and dry stored on the shelf the belt would have a very long life.
Time on the car is very different to time on the shelf, heat cycles and exposure to oil and other contaminents are the killers.
SteveC
Time on the car is very different to time on the shelf, heat cycles and exposure to oil and other contaminents are the killers.
SteveC
Black-Tooth
Tony Natoli
Yeah Eric...
If they were sealed in plastic, I MIGHT use them... but I understand the prices I've seen lately are 12 - 23 dollars, and for my money, I'd rather have a belt that is relatively new for the labor it will take to install it.
I've never lost one on this car, and theoretically I have a non-interference engine, but I'm sure I wouyd loose it at an incovenient time.
All that being said... I keep the old belt I removed, which still looked good... sprayed with a bit of Armorall and stored in a plastic bag... in my car's toolbox as a rolling spare...
If they were sealed in plastic, I MIGHT use them... but I understand the prices I've seen lately are 12 - 23 dollars, and for my money, I'd rather have a belt that is relatively new for the labor it will take to install it.
I've never lost one on this car, and theoretically I have a non-interference engine, but I'm sure I wouyd loose it at an incovenient time.
All that being said... I keep the old belt I removed, which still looked good... sprayed with a bit of Armorall and stored in a plastic bag... in my car's toolbox as a rolling spare...
shonan19328
SUN RISING COUNTRY, JAPAN
Y years?
I really don't understand, change every Y years.
I don't know in the US, but in Japan, Japanese cars indicate T-Belt change sign on panel every 100000km. and I've never heard, T-belt must be changed every Y years. Ha,,,
I really don't understand, change every Y years.
I don't know in the US, but in Japan, Japanese cars indicate T-Belt change sign on panel every 100000km. and I've never heard, T-belt must be changed every Y years. Ha,,,
ng_randolph
Bjorn H
My other car is a Honda,
The factory service manual calls for timing belt change at 90 k miles or 6 years.
Hmmm, the engine in my Honda is lighter than the Fiat engine, and has 65% more power. I bet it would fit nicely in the X1/9...
The factory service manual calls for timing belt change at 90 k miles or 6 years.
Hmmm, the engine in my Honda is lighter than the Fiat engine, and has 65% more power. I bet it would fit nicely in the X1/9...
Black-Tooth
Tony Natoli
I use the Taste-Test... (If he "bites" on for this one...
... I get TWO points, right?)
HA!
And BTW, I agree Tony, but I do inspect mine carefully by BENDING it and I believe I've seen some sealed in PLASTIC... which will help. But like you said, ya never really know.
... I get TWO points, right?)
HA!
And BTW, I agree Tony, but I do inspect mine carefully by BENDING it and I believe I've seen some sealed in PLASTIC... which will help. But like you said, ya never really know.
Black-Tooth
Tony Natoli
You can never really GUESS when a belt will fail...
... but I would assume the MFRs are telling us to change them WELL before they would usually fail. Doing that would only help them finanacially and also keep us in good graces from not being stranded because of a broken belt.
... but I would assume the MFRs are telling us to change them WELL before they would usually fail. Doing that would only help them finanacially and also keep us in good graces from not being stranded because of a broken belt.
Dan Sarandrea (Phila)
Waitin' On Parts...
The ones sealed in Bob Brown's heretically sealed trailer last the longest, don't cha know.:mallet:
Ain't it the truth!
I removed mine for the first time in 23 years...
No cracks, no splits, not dry. The belt looks like it has 28K miles on it. (which it does) -And a LOT of life left. But I'm still changing it.
My only concern: the belt was somewhat loose. Far from snug. I could push down on the side of the belt with about 1 lb of pressure and the belt would draw in almost an inch. Hmm.... When I twisted my rotor (CW/CCW) by hand, I got a measurable amount of movement from it. Yet the engine still ran smooth. I did notice some fluctuation at idle, but not a whole lot.
So, how does one know how much tension is supposed to be on this thing? (timing belt)
I removed mine for the first time in 23 years...
No cracks, no splits, not dry. The belt looks like it has 28K miles on it. (which it does) -And a LOT of life left. But I'm still changing it.
My only concern: the belt was somewhat loose. Far from snug. I could push down on the side of the belt with about 1 lb of pressure and the belt would draw in almost an inch. Hmm.... When I twisted my rotor (CW/CCW) by hand, I got a measurable amount of movement from it. Yet the engine still ran smooth. I did notice some fluctuation at idle, but not a whole lot.
So, how does one know how much tension is supposed to be on this thing? (timing belt)
ianlawson
ian - NZ
Well, here's my theory............!
I have replaced the timing belt on my 1300 X twice - as per the recommended change mileage every 30,000 miles.
When I did the first belt replacement job, I precisely followed the procedure as per the Autobooks (UK) manual, which stated to release the (restrained) tensioner after the new belt was fitted, and then rotate the engine (by hand) for 2 full cycles. Then tighten down the tensioner nut. This would then set the belt to the recommended tension.
All this is done when the engine is cold, of course!
I then ran the car for about 2 months on a few long trips, and noticed when the engine was HOT, that a distinct whine was coming from the timing belt region when idling. I didn't worry about this, thinking that maybe the noise was just the new belt 'settling in'.
This whine did NOT disappear, even after quite a few miles running! I started to get a little worried, and suspected that MAYBE the new belt was running a bit over-tight. So I removed the cambelt plastic cover after returning from a long run and discovered that the belt WAS AS TIGHT AS A BANJO STRING - in my mind, severely over-tight!
While the engine was still hot, I slightly loosened off the tensioner securing nut, and let the belt tension relax a fraction - just until it had some small amount of slack. Retightened the tensioner nut at that point, and started the engine. No more whining noise from the belt, and the engine has run perfectly like that ever since!!
What this preamble is all about is - IMHO, the cambelt tension should be set WHEN THE ENGINE IS HOT!
Yep, it may feel a bit loose-ish when the engine is cold, but it certainly tightens up a tad when the engine is at operating temperature.
I followed the very same procedure when replacing the belt for the second time (at the recommended interval) and all is still 100% OK.
cheers, Ian - NZ
I have replaced the timing belt on my 1300 X twice - as per the recommended change mileage every 30,000 miles.
When I did the first belt replacement job, I precisely followed the procedure as per the Autobooks (UK) manual, which stated to release the (restrained) tensioner after the new belt was fitted, and then rotate the engine (by hand) for 2 full cycles. Then tighten down the tensioner nut. This would then set the belt to the recommended tension.
All this is done when the engine is cold, of course!
I then ran the car for about 2 months on a few long trips, and noticed when the engine was HOT, that a distinct whine was coming from the timing belt region when idling. I didn't worry about this, thinking that maybe the noise was just the new belt 'settling in'.
This whine did NOT disappear, even after quite a few miles running! I started to get a little worried, and suspected that MAYBE the new belt was running a bit over-tight. So I removed the cambelt plastic cover after returning from a long run and discovered that the belt WAS AS TIGHT AS A BANJO STRING - in my mind, severely over-tight!
While the engine was still hot, I slightly loosened off the tensioner securing nut, and let the belt tension relax a fraction - just until it had some small amount of slack. Retightened the tensioner nut at that point, and started the engine. No more whining noise from the belt, and the engine has run perfectly like that ever since!!
What this preamble is all about is - IMHO, the cambelt tension should be set WHEN THE ENGINE IS HOT!
Yep, it may feel a bit loose-ish when the engine is cold, but it certainly tightens up a tad when the engine is at operating temperature.
I followed the very same procedure when replacing the belt for the second time (at the recommended interval) and all is still 100% OK.
cheers, Ian - NZ
shonan19328
SUN RISING COUNTRY, JAPAN
T-Belt tensioner spring
I have two questions.
1. Do I need to re-set, adjust belt tension again after changing to new belt, and when ?
2. Isn't it necessary to change spring that is used with bearing ?
It seems to be shorter or weak ?
I have two questions.
1. Do I need to re-set, adjust belt tension again after changing to new belt, and when ?
2. Isn't it necessary to change spring that is used with bearing ?
It seems to be shorter or weak ?
ng_randolph
Bjorn H
You set the tension when you install the new belt, and then never touch it again. The shop manual is adamant about this: "Under no circumstances must belt tension be adjusted following its initial installation"
There is no mention of replacing the tensioner spring as routine maintenance. I have not seen a spec. for the spring, and don't know how to evaluate if it is still good.
There is no mention of replacing the tensioner spring as routine maintenance. I have not seen a spec. for the spring, and don't know how to evaluate if it is still good.
DuaneEstill
Banned User
So what's this?
"heretically" sealed? Sealed by a heretic?
"heretically" sealed? Sealed by a heretic?
bb4re
86X 22,000 miles
Sorry. I had to look it up. That's a big word for me!
A heretic is a person who expresses or acts on opinions considered to be heresy.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heretic
A heretic is a person who expresses or acts on opinions considered to be heresy.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heretic
