Doing the Brake/Clutch System Overhall

kyle

Upstate N.Y.
Just got the pedal box back in. what a pain by yourself. but the hard part is over. now onto the calipers and the clutch slave cylinder.
Cheers.
 
Sounds familiar...

Doing the same here in my Scorpion. The Scorpion has an additional twist; there are two brake lines and one clutch line that separate at the firewall.

So it's designed to be removed as an assembly for service. On my Bertone I was able to service the m/c's in situ, although removing the assembly would probably have been easier. :hmm:
 
I'll be doing the same thing this weekend

both masters and clutch slave. I hope that the bleeding process is without headache for you.
 
Is there a good tutorial/reference for this?

Thinking I may need to do the same in a few months after I wrap-up the engine-related stuff.

Assuming I want to replace the brake and clutch masters, I'll need to disconnect the lines, pull the pedal box, etc. But would appreciate a step-by-step and I'm guessing that someone has previously written this up but couldn't find anything using search.

both masters and clutch slave. I hope that the bleeding process is without headache for you.
 
I'm about to do the brake mc since it's failed on me, should I look at doing the clutch as well?
 
Good practice...

Saves headache of unplanned work later. The effort or cost of the labor is minimized this way.
 
I'm about to do the brake mc since it's failed on me, should I look at doing the clutch as well?

I would, and I'd also replace the lines from reservoirs to masters. By far the hardest and most unpleasant part of the job is getting in there and separating the pedal box, and then putting it back together again. So there's a lot to be said for refreshing everything while you're in there.

This is assuming that everything is more or less equally old, of course - no reason to replace something that's been recently done and has many years of useful life left.
 
Just got a hard (pedal)

Just finishing up with the brakes on the 86 corsa. Had to pressurize the reservoir and vacuum bleed at the rear calipers. Worked great.

CIMG1848.jpg


CIMG1846.jpg
 
Yup

Taped my shop vac to a juice bottle, drilled a hole in bottle 1/2 way down for bleeder hose to go in, cracked bleeder screw 1/4 turn. Used my old 12volt mini compressor with a foot ball filler needle attached, through a hole drilled in a clutch reservoir cap (old spare), connected to battery. Turn every thing on and pump the peddle a dozen times to get things going. New brake master cylinder, new reservoir to master hoses, new hoses at wheels, rebuild calipers with new seals, new pads, new discs. Once I had the system flowing I changed the bleeder screws over to Russell speed bleeders p/n 639520. Did more bleeding, 20 times (pumps) per corner. Will do another 10 times per corner tonight but probably does not need it. Have to adjust park brake.
When I had the pedal box out I found the brake pedal pivot bore was rusted and seized onto the plastic bushing. The pedal was turning the bushing. Cleaned it all up and painted and lubed everything.

CIMG1835.jpg
 
I just cut the hoses

from the reservoirs to the master cylinders it was so much easier to get the pedal box out. It was a little expensive for the lines. But the old ones were 25 years old. So I figured just replace them. I also replaced all the flexible brake lines and the re sealed all the calipers. I just put the steering column back in tonite. I am also replacing the Clutch master and slave just due to there age. I hope to bleed everything this weekend. I have a pressure bleeder from work. So I hope it should not be a big deal.
 
As you may have read in other posts

Make sure you jack the ass end up as high as you can when it comes to bleeding the clutch. It does help alot.
 
Wait a minute Dean...

A vacuum pump, a compressor, AND 1000 pumps of the pedal!

HAHAHAHA!

I managed to do the same thing with just 1000 pumps of the pedal!

HA!

But one time I used a manual BICYCLE pump on a clutch slave replacement using a needle in the cap... and it took all of about 15 seconds! I looked like a GENIUS that time!

Continue having fun!
 
I would...

It would make sense to assume that if the clutch m/c needs replacing, the clutch slave does too.

In your case you are probably doing the clutch m/c "as long as you're in there". If it were me I'd do it all (clutch slave hose as well) and be done with it for a long time. Brake fluid is one of those fluids I hate to mess with and like to try to get it over with in one project.

One way to judge is to look at the transaxle housing under where the slave is bolted on. If it looks damp and dirty, it is leaking and will fail sooner than later. If it's clean and dry underneath, then it could last a long time. Make sure the "dust boot" is in good condition. A bad dust boot allows dirt and moisture into the bore where the seal can be damaged.
 
The term "Weakest Link" comes to mine...

Generally after one goes out the other will follow soon now do to the increased pressure...

But in the REAL world... if its the Slave, I just do the Slave. If its the Master I do both 'cause the slave is nuttin' after doing the Master!
 
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