Door "check-strap" option

[Dr.Jeff]

Recently I removed the door 'check-straps' (opening limiter/stays) and found a style I do not recognize. It fits and functions perfectly in the X door (actually works better than the old style). Does anyone know what year/model this came from?

For comparison, this is what I'm accustomed to seeing:

 

[LarryC]

The ones pictured in the first three images is the one you can get. The original style is the one you cannot. Over the years I have bought afew replacements and they always look like the first three. The original one is a better design. Sadly, none of them last very long. So the answer is, the first three are the ones that are sold as replacements. If you know of a place to get the original style, I am all ears.

 

[Dr.Jeff]

Thanks Larry, but what I am asking is if anyone knows what those replacements are off of (what vehicle were they initially intended for)? I see them listed as "approved replacements", but what year/model do they come from?

For what its worth, there was one of each style on one of my X's. And the newer style one (top pictures) felt much better than the original style one. By "felt better" I mean it had a smoother action, held well without a lot of tugging required, and was quieter. I imagine the large nylon carcass makes it so.

 

[Dan Sarandrea (Phila)]

I can tell you the one you DO NOT want is the one sold by Mr. FIAT on eBay. It's straight, not angled. The mounting ears look like the machine operator lost interest in bending the metal halfway thru the operation. They let the door open too far, risking damage to the door. And they are overpriced.

 

[kmead]

I bought a replacement from MWB and it was the first type. It works well and is better than the original.

I likely make sure I have an extra around.

 

[LarryC]

That is all you have been able to get for many decades now. I assumed early on that they were a later design used on some more common Fiat model or something. In my case, I found that the plastic wears quickly, if it does not crack first.

 

[geekdaddy]

I'm looking for a replacement on my driver's door. I have the original type. MWB is outta stock. Would ideally like to install before I start driving which is VERY soon

 

[Dr.Jeff]

It's straight, not angled. The mounting ears look like the machine operator lost interest in bending the metal halfway thru the operation.

I'm not certain if it was the same one you refer to, but I recall awhile back seeing a listing for the replacement metal rod (to repair a broken door check) and it stated the rod needed to be bent to work on the X1/9. That seemed quite dumb to me for several reasons; 1) why would you advertise a part as fitting a particular model but say it needs to be modified first, 2) these rods should be hardened steel and not easy to bend, 3) if you could bend it that would weaken the very part that you are replacing for being broken, 4) what are the odds of getting it bent just right to work correctly and not allow damage to the door as you say.

In my case, I found that the plastic wears quickly, if it does not crack first.

I can see where that might happen, as it does have a large plastic/nylon portion. However on my '79 both of the old style (last picture) ones had broken metal rods. And when someone (prior owner) tried to close the door with the broken rod it damaged the door frame and the opening on the door that the rod passes through. So it might be a good thing if the plastic goes instead of the rod. Also the plastic seems to provide a self-lubricating feature, with a smoother feeling action than the other style.

I assumed early on that they were a later design used on some more common Fiat model or something.

I'm still curious just what model they are from. Anyone??

 

[milan1951]

How does one fit the MWB new door check strap ? Does the door fitting need to be slid forward over vice grip compressed springs ? Cant see how to fit it without removing door off hinges.

 

[Dan Sarandrea (Phila)]

How does one fit the MWB new door check strap ? Does the door fitting need to be slid forward over vice grip compressed springs ? Cant see how to fit it without removing door off hinges.

Here's how to:

1. First, be VERY aware that the design of the door and jamb means that it is sadly*** way too easy to damage the front lower corner of the door if the door opens too far. Rig up something to prevent your door from opening too far as you work on it.

2. Open the door to its normal full-open position, keeping #1 in mind.

3. If your new door check has a bend at the closed end, orient the check so that the bend points outward (away from the car). With the style of door check you have, this means that the check will be "right side up" on one side of the car and "up side down" on the other side of the car.

4. Locate the white roller in the middle hump of the metal spring. Yes, it would be easier to squeeze the open ends of the spring together if you kept it at the end, but IIRC the assembly is too long to fit between the door and the jamb if you first mount the spring to the loops on the jamb and then try to swing the spring over and fit it into the door.

5. I have used channel-locks as you pictured to squeeze the spring so its nipples fit into the door jamb loops. But I wonder if using a suitably sized Ideal-style worm drive hose clamp would be better...less hand strength required plus I would expect less chance of scratching the paint on the jamb and the spring.

6. Put a dab of heavy grease on the jamb loops. I don't think there is a need to lube the white roller or its axle. Fit the closed end of the spring into the hole in the door, compress the open end of the spring and line up the nipples on the spring with the loops, and put into place.

7. Now fit and fix the base plate of the check to the door with the two 10mm capscrews.

8. CAREFULLY and SLOWLY swing the door from open to closed position, being ready to stop in an instant if any metal to metal contact is heard. This step is mostly for the benefit of those doing this task using parts from sources other than our trusted vendors that may look similar to the X1/9 part but might have a different curve intended to fit another car.

Hope that my memory is accurate and that the above steps help!

***NEVER ask me how I know this!!

 

[milan1951]

Here's how to:

1. First, be VERY aware that the design of the door and jamb means that it is sadly*** way too easy to damage the front lower corner of the door if the door opens too far. Rig up something to prevent your door from opening too far as you work on it.

2. Open the door to its normal full-open position, keeping #1 in mind.

3. If your new door check has a bend at the closed end, orient the check so that the bend points outward (away from the car). With the style of door check you have, this means that the check will be "right side up" on one side of the car and "up side down" on the other side of the car.

4. Locate the white roller in the middle hump of the metal spring. Yes, it would be easier to squeeze the open ends of the spring together if you kept it at the end, but IIRC the assembly is too long to fit between the door and the jamb if you first mount the spring to the loops on the jamb and then try to swing the spring over and fit it into the door.

5. I have used channel-locks as you pictured to squeeze the spring so its nipples fit into the door jamb loops. But I wonder if using a suitably sized Ideal-style worm drive hose clamp would be better...less hand strength required plus I would expect less chance of scratching the paint on the jamb and the spring.

6. Put a dab of heavy grease on the jamb loops. I don't think there is a need to lube the white roller or its axle. Fit the closed end of the spring into the hole in the door, compress the open end of the spring and line up the nipples on the spring with the loops, and put into place.

7. Now fit and fix the base plate of the check to the door with the two 10mm capscrews.

8. CAREFULLY and SLOWLY swing the door from open to closed position, being ready to stop in an instant if any metal to metal contact is heard. This step is mostly for the benefit of those doing this task using parts from sources other than our trusted vendors that may look similar to the X1/9 part but might have a different curve intended to fit another car.

Hope that my memory is accurate and that the above steps help!

***NEVER ask me how I know this!!

Good morning Dan and thanks for all the above pointers. Will follow them with religious fever. Thanks for the tip of using suitably sized worm drive hose clamp to compress springs. Was running out of hands with CCP channel locks (called multi grips here) Was going for my Irwin vice-grips, but were not on my tool box. (borrowed and not returned-as usual)
The heavy grease sounds a good lube idea to get things sliding.
If I understood correctly. the bend outwards. upward. grease spring. Compress with hose clamp. Closed end of spring into hole in door. The compressed spring must at this stage partly go into the door hole in order to fit remainder of spring nipples into the loops on the jamb.
Then finally put in 10mm capscrews and check for noises. My new check strap from trusted source; Midwest-Bayless.

I won't ask you how you know and the memory sounds accurate and to the point. (by your pic we seems in the same age group) seniority=experience...

The surname sounds Italian (like mine)

Take care in Covid trying times. No cases in Canberra (Federal Capital) at the moment. Not sure in Philly.

Will try that today if the wife allows me the time on the X 1/9. Will report back. Will now look for suitably sized worm drive hose clamp. Sounds a far better solution than vice-grips.

 

[milan1951]

Recently I removed the door 'check-straps' (opening limiter/stays) and found a style I do not recognize. It fits and functions perfectly in the X door (actually works better than the old style). Does anyone know what year/model this came from?

View attachment 10006
View attachment 10007
View attachment 10008

For comparison, this is what I'm accustomed to seeing:
View attachment 10011

Dr Jeff hi and tanks for pics of door check strap. I have one from MWB that looks like the last photo. I note that roller is down at the open end. The only place it can be for fitting it to a suitably opened X 1/9 door without damaging it. Will try and do that to my new one to be able to fit between door and jamb.

 

[LarryC]

I had forgotten this thread. To answer the original question, I believe the ones pictured at the top of the this thread were from a Strada or something of the same vintage.

 

[alfisti]

hi folks. Sorry to resurrect an old thread, but when I install my new check straps from MWB (which have no plastic in the mount - they look like OEM, not the "new style" ones), the door will not close. I saw another thread about reshaping these. Hope I do not have to do that. Anyone have any easy ideas on how I can diagnose this? Have tried multiple times. Always with the bend pointing outward (doesn't seem to fit at all with the bend pointing inward). Thanks

 

[Jonohhh]

Omg the door isn't supposed to just flop open then sneakily slam shut on my shins?!


Being an old and budget oriented car, I thought the doors just had a simple travel limiter and nothing else.

Wow.

 

[tvmaster]

hi folks. Sorry to resurrect an old thread, but when I install my new check straps from MWB (which have no plastic in the mount - they look like OEM, not the "new style" ones), the door will not close. I saw another thread about reshaping these. Hope I do not have to do that. Anyone have any easy ideas on how I can diagnose this? Have tried multiple times. Always with the bend pointing outward (doesn't seem to fit at all with the bend pointing inward). Thanks

Have any pictures?

 

[alfisti]

Hi. I was able to get the door to close by putting some outward pressure on the spring while closing it. I haven't had to time to tinker with it since - but it seems the spring is getting hung up on the opening inside the door. :-(