Electric water pump - revisited

We've had a few discussions regarding the use of a electric water pump in place of the stock mechanical one. I happened across the following article describing how one person did it. This may not be new for some, but it was to me so thought I'd share it (although I'm not going to a electric pump).

https://hitthewave.wordpress.com/tag/danilos-x19-modifications/
Interesting approach but I think his premise that the cooling system was a weakness in the X1/9 may be false. If anything it should read that the cooling system of old X1/9s may be weak (something common with old cars in general with deteriorated cooling systems). I knew a fair number of people with these cars when they were new, and I don't recall any having cooling issues, and many were pumping out more than stock HP. I have never had the radiator fan in my car come on unless it was stationary with no air flow for a while.
 
I think his premise that the cooling system was a weakness in the X1/9 may be false.
I won't agree nor disagree with you Don. But I will say all of the X's I have owned needed cooling system upgrades - regardless of the reason. However I don't plan on going electric pump either.
 
My buddy and I run a Davies Craig 110 pump with our 1900s.
The engine runs so cold that it is hard to bring it up to operating temp.
So I would disagree with the notion in the article that the X engine wob‘t work with only an electric pump because it isn‘t designed for it.
I would have liked to install the pump near the rad, but the heater feed and return need to be before and after the pump, respectively, so that there is a pressure differential to move water through the heater.
So the heater connections would have to move up front as well.
That was too much reeingineering so we stuck with a location in the engine compartment.
 
We've had a few discussions regarding the use of a electric water pump in place of the stock mechanical one. I happened across the following article describing how one person did it. This may not be new for some, but it was to me so thought I'd share it (although I'm not going to a electric pump).

https://hitthewave.wordpress.com/tag/danilos-x19-modifications/

For the electric fan to work correctly, it shouldn't be in parallel or series with an existing (mechanical) fan but rather as a complete replacement. The thermostat should be removed as well as the temperature should be controlled by the fan. I have a Davies Craig EWP80 sitting in my cupboard that I still need to install...
 
For the electric fan to work correctly, it shouldn't be in parallel or series with an existing (mechanical) fan but rather as a complete replacement.
I think you possibly mean, "for a electric PUMP to work correctly it shouldn't be in parallel or series with an existing (mechanical) PUMP"?
 
I live in Perth Western Australia. For those of you who haven't heard of WA we wear funny hats with corks around the brim and ride around in kangaroo's pouches.
Anyway, it gets hot here, like really really hot. 40C+ is not uncommon. My X1/9 has a new radiator (recored at great expense) and no fans, not yet anyway. It never goes above 90C.
So if you are having issues and you have fans that work, Don't get it flushed, REPLACE your radiator!
 
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it gets hot here, like really really hot. 40C+ is not uncommon
Unfortunately 45C is common here. We're located next to one of the hottest places in the world - Death Valley. And the air stream moves from there to here. So I can relate to what you have to deal with.

90C is rather hot running in my opinion. I like to run vehicles with archaic engineering on the cool side, around 75-80C in these hot climates. Just personal preference though.
 
Unfortunately 45C is common here. We're located next to one of the hottest places in the world - Death Valley. And the air stream moves from there to here. So I can relate to what you have to deal with.

90C is rather hot running in my opinion. I like to run vehicles with archaic engineering on the cool side, around 75-80C in these hot climates. Just personal preference though.
Yeah I wondered if that is where you lived.
45 is damm hot!
We score the low 40s in Perth (occasionally), but where I work Eastern Goldfields and Pilbara it can hit 47+. Not nice.
Yes I think 90 is too high but not bad for a fanless car.
It will get a pair of fans when I get time, but not before I repaint the whole car and redo the duco.
 
90 is the design temp for our cooling system.
The thermostat's job is to keep the temp at 90 regardless of ambient temps.
So I wouldn't call 90 "too high".
It is "just right"! :)
 
The desired operating temp for most internal combustion engines is 190 degrees Fahrenheit or 87.7 degrees Celsius.
45 C is 113 F That is on the cool side for proper combustion or am I missing something here.
 
yes, 45°C is the ambient temperature (australia and USA desert)..we have similar hot climate in summer (south italy)..i dont drive any car in sumertime, too hot, (also too much trafic, beeing a touristic place)..better moving on 2 wheels machines
 
we have similar hot climate in summer (south italy)
I haven't been there in the hottest time of year, but based on what I saw I can imagine it gets very hot.


So I wouldn't call 90 "too high".
It is "just right"!
Agreed, the stock T-stat and original design was intended to operate at higher temps. But that does not mean I prefer that, at least not on 40 year old vehicles that are asked to do a lot more than they were initially engineered for (speaking of my climate). There may be some confusion in the earlier discussion, I was saying I prefer to run around 170 degrees F, allowing for another 10 degrees headroom (i.e. 180 max). But again, my situation will be different from others. I only drive my vintage cars occasionally in stop and go traffic, with the AC running, ambient temps well over 100 F, and a bit heavy footed. Having experienced overheating in the past, I make sure it won't happen again.

Every old vehicle that I've purchased and torn down the engines (like the 4 I'm currently doing) has had significant signs of internal damage from running too hot at some point. One of the X1/9 1500's I'm doing now had piston ring material welded to the cylinders, scored bearings and piston skirts, a multitude of cracks in the head, the head was so severely warped it actually bent the cam box, and everything was cooked to the point of completely stripping the walls. But the prior owner said he was still driving it, at redline all the time (something that seems common with these cars), and that it was in great shape. I disagree.
 
You have to compare road speed and temps. At speed no fan is needed so if you car is overheating at say 70mph then a fan isn't going to help. If it overheats while waiting at a stoplight then a functioning fan would help if the car got too hot since no air is flowing through the radiator. At what temp is the sending unit on the radiator turning on the radiator fan on an X?
 
You have to compare road speed and temps. At speed no fan is needed so if you car is overheating at say 70mph then a fan isn't going to help. If it overheats while waiting at a stoplight then a functioning fan would help if the car got too hot since no air is flowing through the radiator. At what temp is the sending unit on the radiator turning on the radiator fan on an X?
Sorry I should have qualified my post with "in metro driving".
 
A quick look at 3 Beck Arnley thermoststs for a '75 X show temperature ratings of 188F, 180F, and 160F. Not sure which one is "correct". Probably depends on emission controls.
 
Radiator. If you're getting hot (the car, not you) you have an aging, starting to plug, reduced-flow radiator. I've got two of them, one in my X and another in my 124. They're fine and predictable in non-90F degree-plus days if moving. You don't want to sit in bumper to bumper traffic. It's a manageable issue until you get a new radiator.
 
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