Engine goes hot>cold>hot, heater goes cold>hot>cold

Good news. It definitely seems to be air.
Although I don't have a replacement bleed screw yet, I used the expansion tank.
With the engine running, and the thermostat open, a lot of coolant is passing the tank.
It seems I lost some air, but there is enough left in the system.
 
E77831EE-6CC2-4809-B466-3B4C68B5F09E.png This cv bleed nipple fits. Extend the key a bit and bleeding the rad is easy. Cheap also.
 
What is a CV bleed nipple? Is this used on radiators in your house?

Do you have a source you can link to? My non existent Dutch is not helping me.

Something like this might be more desirable than the OE nutted solution.
 
paul said:
Good news. It definitely seems to be air.
Although I don't have a replacement bleed screw yet, I used the expansion tank.
With the engine running, and the thermostat open, a lot of coolant is passing the tank.
It seems I lost some air, but there is enough left in the system.
Click to expand...
I still smile all the way thru your Magnum PI video. I watch it every few months. :)
 
kmead said:
What is a CV bleed nipple? Is this used on radiators in your house?

Do you have a source you can link to? My non existent Dutch is not helping me.

Something like this might be more desirable than the OE nutted solution.
Click to expand...

Looks exactly like the home hot-water radiator bleeders I have. I used one of those on my Howe rad, but mine has 1/8th NPT threads for bleed & drain
 
Thanks for the tip, Max. Gonna get some this week.
I didn't look at this possibility as I suspected the thread would be wrong.
 
Hahah, thanks Jim, I don't know what funny stuff we were smoking at the time we were shooting the video, probably to much gasoline funes. Oh, my god :)
 
paul said:
Nice modification, Steve. I think I understand what you did.
Where do you go with the hose? In the frunk, or somewhere else?
Click to expand...

It's just tucked behind the radiator.
The hose is long enough, that if you bleed the coolant into a clean container, you can re-use it for topping up.
 
Thanks for trying it out, Max.
Too bad it doesn't fit, would have been a nice solution.
 
Mxgrds said:
Yes. Bleed nipple for house radiators.
https://www.warmteservice.nl/Verwarming/Radiatoren-en-convectoren/Radiator-toebehoren/Ontluchter,-kleine-maat-1-8/p/45152905
Click to expand...

Nice solution. I'm wondering whether an auto bleeding radiator valve might also work? e.g.
https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B003BNJWUW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The theory seems solid at least:

Pity that most of the plumbing supplies (even in Europe) are imperial though :(.

Cheers,
Dom.
 
This type off auto bleeder works with kind off tissue that expands when wet and shrinks when dried. Tried that before, but didn’t work wel with coolant.
I use this one. It works with a siphon. It needs to be higher than the radiator. I have it in the light cavity left. Works fine.
https://images.app.goo.gl/QpSdwpnLYafRMN1G7
 
Happy to report that the issue seems to be resolved.

Got a second hand bleeding screw. A new one from China is still on its way.
After installing it, and releasing air three times, engine temperature is much more stable.

Now a long version bleeding screw installed, easy to operate, but the roof only fits with the handles on the other side.

Thanks everyone for the helping to solve it :)
 
Glad to hear your problem is sorted.

Just to add another rad bleeding technology, I have fitted a bleed valve for bike front folks, this is on a vw rad but I am sure you could make an adaptor for a stock rad thread.

To bleed just press the button, much easier than risking opening the thread type valve too far and having to wrestle it back in with hot coolant gushing everywhere(that is not fun)
 
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