Engine Oil

Peter Cecil

Peter Cecil

True Classic
Greetings,

I read an interesting post on wiki last night about engine oils for our type of engines. The author likes Rotella. I have no feelings either way about Rotella other than many of the farmers in my area will not go near it with their heavy equipment.

What are our members using? My favourite, with was discouraged in the article, is Mobil 1. I have used it for years. That aside, any suggestions?

I do also add a product called Cam Guard for the extended time the engine sits idle.

Peter
 
Peter Cecil said:
I read an interesting post on wiki last night about engine oils for our type of engines.
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Link? I'd be interested in seeing that too.

My quick answer is that any modern oil of the appropriate grade is probably better than even the best of the coagulated dinosaur blood that was used forty years ago. But where's the fun in that answer?

I've been using Rotella 15W-40 for many years, but am considering switching for my next round of oil changes because of the increased availability of high-ZDDP formulated oils for older cars.

For a really good time, check out the forums at https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php ;)
 
EricH said:
Link? I'd be interested in seeing that too.

My quick answer is that any modern oil of the appropriate grade is probably better than even the best of the coagulated dinosaur blood that was used forty years ago. But where's the fun in that answer?

I've been using Rotella 15W-40 for many years, but am considering switching for my next round of oil changes because of the increased availability of high-ZDDP formulated oils for older cars.

For a really good time, check out the forums at https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php ;)
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Eric,
Here is the link to what I was reading. The author really does not recommend any of the Mobil 1 synthetic product for our engines at all for the very reason that you mention, ZDDP or the lack thereof.

http://xwebforums.com/wiki/index.php?title=Oil
 
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Well, there goes my Castrol 20w/50 in all Fiats theory. I haven't bought or thought much about Rotella in a long time. Perhaps I should?
 
So this quote summarizes the link?

"BRAND MEANS NOTHING!!!!!!!! If you turn the bottle over and it does not say that it is ACEA A3/B3 (or A3/B4, or C3) approved, then it does NOT meet that approval!"

They refer a couple of times to 'flat tappet' Land Rover motors, is that what they mean for OHC bucket style lifters? Working only with Volvo 4/5/6 cyl & my X1/9, I'm not familiar with other variant OHC lifter styles......
 
Just to add, the X1/9 gets Joe Gibbs Driven HR3 synthetic 15W-50 once a year, cost a lot but hey once a year, not many miles put on car in a year. Daily drivers Subaru Impreza 2.5 non turbo x 2, get Mobil 1, 5W-30 synthetic with 4oz ZDDPlus, at 7000 km oil change. Motorcycles 03 Yamaha R1 and 14 Yamaha 6R both inline 4 cylinder, run Mobil Racing 4T 10W-40 synthetic, usually at 5000 km change. If the jug of oil you use has the API circle within a circle mark on it I would not use it without a ZDDP additive.
 
lookforjoe said:
So this quote summarizes the link?

"BRAND MEANS NOTHING!!!!!!!! If you turn the bottle over and it does not say that it is ACEA A3/B3 (or A3/B4, or C3) approved, then it does NOT meet that approval!"

They refer a couple of times to 'flat tappet' Land Rover motors, is that what they mean for OHC bucket style lifters? Working only with Volvo 4/5/6 cyl & my X1/9, I'm not familiar with other variant OHC lifter styles......
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That is the message I get from that article and I would agree with the "flat tappet' being similar to the X.
 
Have a look at Amsoil Z-ROD 10W-30 synthetic.It sounds like what most of our little cars need with all the right notes and additives. I have never used the product and I do not promote the product. Just a thought.
 
Been using Mobile One Turbo Diesel Truck for nearly a decade now. This was a recommendation by the engineers at Garrett Air Research (the turbo folks) during a discussion about engine oils at a LeMons race. This is what they use in their turbo Miata (Eye Sore Racing) and has proven to be good in many ways. Lots of concern over ZDDP levels in engine oils these days due to some motors flattening cams on some modern oils. Have a good long look at the cam lobe size, stress area, cam profile and cam loading. Lampredi understood well how to design a durable. robust and tough cam-valve system that is not overly stressful on oil. Lampredi got this aspect of the design absolute proper. Another aspect of why that Lampredi SOHC motor is so mis-understood and such an excellent design given it's design and production constraints.

As for ZDDP content, Mobile One 5-W40 Turbo Diesel Truck shows 1100-1200 PPM, which is not low. Do understand ZDDP reduction was due to ZDDP slowly killing catalytic over time. ZDDP levels much above this is not good for them.
http://www.billswebspace.com/mobil_1_product_guide.pdf

We use Mobile One 5-W40 in all the cars in the fleet, from 57' Triumph TR3 to 90's Saab tubo with zero problems. I'm not a fan of "designer label" engine oils as most PAO base comes from Mobile Oil.. then blended as requested by the brand seller.


Bernice
 
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Been using Mobil Delvac 15w40 in my x's for a couple decades (Note: this is not the synthetic version, the synthetic version is Delvac1). Has appropriate ZDDP content. No issues.
 
Hey Peter...

Welcome to XWEB and its wonderful community.

I have been using Castrol GTX for the last 100 years in EVERYTHING I own. My '79 X and '69 Vette both have over 175,000 miles, my old '85 Toyota Van had over 228,000 miles when it seized... and my '23 Model T has about 20. Its some kinda semi-synthetic and actually drops the operating temp about 10 - 17 degrees (which I have PROVED to myself over many years.) I recommended it mainly because of that but I am SURE there are others out there that do the same thing... but Castrol is reasonably priced, readily available, and effective enough to keep me happy.

For your NEXT question, ask about which is the BEST Spark Plug to use. Then post similar threads asking what is the best Oil Filter, then Air Filter, Tires, etc. etc. You will be entertained for weeks!

Remember this, opinions are like belly buttons... and everyone has a couple.

HA!
 
Black-Tooth said:
For your NEXT question, ask about which is the BEST Spark Plug to use. Then post similar threads asking what is the best Oil Filter, then Air Filter, Tires, etc. etc. You will be entertained for weeks!

Remember this, opinions are like belly buttons... and everyone has a couple.

HA!
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lol!! but still, I think it's a good topic. I like discussing oil, spark plugs and air filters :) - lots of new X1/9 owners are searching, and honestly.. so am I!

Right now I'm using Castrol 10W30 high mileage (semi synthetic). I did use Castrol GTX for years and years.I am pretty sure the stuff I am using is "good enough", but it is not what I plan on using in my engine rebuild.

Castrol does make a synthetic which they suggest is safe for flat tappet/Classic cars.

A lot of Ferrari 308 owners use Brad Penn. The 2valve 308s use the same tappets as the X1/9, but the cam lobes are not as wide. Brad Penn also has a nice gear lube, but THAT is a different thread altogether. I think I've finally convinced myself not to use GL1 any longer :)
 
I've been using Valvoline Racing 20W/50 on the advice of a local Italian car mechanic with many decades of experience. I think the zinc level is listed at 0.14, but I have no idea what the units are.

I can't say if it is better or worse than other oils, but I just took the camshaft and shims out and they look fine.

Cheers,

Rob
 
Designer oils exist only because people are willing to pay for them; they have no use on a mass produced engine like these. I think any modern engine oil is superior to any oil made in the 1960s when these engines were produced and the specifications written for them. Even the stuff in the auto parts store in their own label. The frequency of oil changes with classic cars is typically high relative to the level of contamination - I bet few of you even get oil to the point where it is opaque! Pedestrian grade 15W40, 10W40, SAE30, all work fine - use a good (e.g. BOSCH or MANN) filter and change the oil about every 3k or twice a year if you don't drive that much and you'll be fine.
 
EricH said:
Hmmmm.... I am not happy with the way that's presented in the wiki as absolute fact, or even representative of the standard practice in the vintage fiat community. Well, that's why it's a wiki.....
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Agreed. I did a bit of moderation.

Folks: please, when citing an "opinion", describe it as such along with your name or pseudonym.
 
Hey Tony, thanks for the welcome.

What a great thread, full of ideas and opinions. Thanks everyone.

It is interesting tom learn how many use diesel engine oils. Why not...I have always been of the opinion that diesel engine oils are just that, for diesel engines. Why I am not sure. Product of a closed mind perhaps. I have spent most of my adult years around aero-engines, jet and reciprocating and the strict culture that goes with each. I remember when Mobil 1 was introduced to aero piston engines with dreadful results and yet I have been a fan of that product for a very long time.
Anyway, lots of food for thought. Thank you.
 
Yur welcome and yur welcome...

I love good discussions as well and my family seemed to always be embroiled in such things, especially the men. And like gentlemen, much like 99 and 44/100% of the gentlemen on this site, they may disagree but rarely ever are demeaning.

I find it best to state your EXPERIENCES and the FACTS you have found to support what you say is what lends some real credibility to the topics you discuss. I also was (still is) known as Mr. Frugal as I hate to see folks spend their hard earned money when it isn't necessary.

Just always remember its YOUR car and YOUR hobby so do as you wish, and NOT just what the majority or consensus of the folks on this site might suggest.

Lastly, have fun and enjoy the ride!
 
Brad Penn Motor Oil. “100% Pure Pennsylvania Grade Crude Oil”.

Gear head marketing myths that simply refuse to die due to marketing inertia, ingrained motor myth and plain ignorance based on hear-say.
Consider the age of the car folks who remembers the Penzoil ads claiming “100% Pure Pennsylvania Grade Crude Oil” is best?
Facts and reality is, a LOT has changed since Penzoil ran that marketing effort, yet there are more than a few who continue to hold on to these marketing falsehoods as gospel.

This is NO different than Fix It Again Tony or Toyota's never die, Porsche 911's are the finest "sports car in the world" and on and on and on...


Bernice
 
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