FACET fuel pump mounting location?? HELP

Jepp78bertone

Jepp78bertone

True Classic
So i've read all over the place that it is best if the Electric fuel pump is mounted as low as possible to allow the pump to draw fuel from the tank less strenuously instead of having to suck fuel out.

I am trying to decide where to mount my fuel pump, and the spot that it fits so nicely is not very low. Is this really going to be a problem? or can I leave it this way?

What is the risk I am taking if I leave it?

I am not using the carb cooling fan, so I have that perfectly good mounting spot, and the Facet pump fits perfectly on it right out of the box.



QUESTION #2.

Where is the best place to draw power from for the pump? I have read that getting a lead from the coil is a NO-NO, but many people do it anyway.

What are my other options?
 
pump mounting

perfect spot. and I notice that it doesn't have the capacitor/diode on the top. that was the demise of those pumps due to engine heat.
I have changed more between oil changes that I want to talk about.
remember that electric pumps push not pull, so a lower placement might be deemed appropriate... or two in series.
and you don't want to mount in a remote region where you spend half a day getting to it!!
my:2c:
mikemo
 
fuel pump

That's where I have mine mounted, no problems so far. I'm using a Facet rotary pump though, a little different than the cube style you have there. Just make sure the inlet hose is short.

As far as wiring, I recommend a separate circuit using a fuse and relay. Also, consider using an inertia cutoff switch like this:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-INERTI...RER-/111448018638?hash=item19f2d1cece&vxp=mtr

This will ensure the pump is "killed" in the event of a collision
 
mounted mine

on the frame rail down low, there is a stud there on my car. I would like to believe that once the siphon starts, my pump is just moving the fuel, not having to suck it up
I second the suggestion of a safety circuit for fuel cutoff- I used the oil pressure sender to operate 2 relays, 1 for the original light, the other to run the fuel pump off the start circuit, while starting, then switches to it's own power, as long as the oil pressure light stays off. Remember, your car turns over- you'll be getting a fuel bath, carbs are not spill proof
 
inertia switch

eeeeeeeewooo!!
a ford part on a fiat???
Alfa had the same setup, with only two wires between the pump power and ground.
downside of that "rollover" switch on the Alfa, was a good speed bump would trigger it.
mikemo
 
second the opinion about using engine oil pressure to trigger relay that powers pump, which is how Fiat chose to wire electric pumps on other production models.

Inertia switch is a nice idea.

You want the clean 12v feed for the coil to power JUST the coil, it will save you issues down the track, trust everyone on this, dont use the coil power wire.

lower would be nicer, try have a look at a stock EFI x19, check where Fiat mounted it, they wouldn't have just popped it there because it was the easiest....

SteveC
 
I used the same spot

and I ran that same pump that I bought from Art Bayless back in 1981 on my '79 for over 25 years with no problems.
 
Best place to draw power from

The carburetor fan relay had a switched power wire that works great for a fuel pump power supply if you aren't using the fan anyway. There is another evap related relay there in the same area on my 77 that also is a candidate. I did use the exact same mount area for my pump. My return is a tad different with the dual webers. I used a idea that some folks running webers use which is a "T" fitting with a orifice soldered in the return leg. I had some extra .50 idle jets from DCNF/IDF jetting so I used one of those in the return 1/4" nipple and it works well. No oil pressure relay system yet but I will likely do that little mod as well.
 
any pictures?

thanks for the info elderair. Do you by chance have any pictures of your set up? It would really help me out with visualizing it.
 
Carb cooling fan wiring

So Can I just attach the positive wire from the Electric fuel pump to the RED wire from the Carb Cooling fan that goes to 87 on the Carb cooling fan relay?

How could I incorporate the oil pressure relay mod too?
 
easy....

they make an oil pressure safety switch, but relay's are cheap. I rigged this up, works good. Switching relay chooses power from Ign/acc, or the actual start activation wire that goes to your solenoid...the other relay operates your oil light, keeping the 2 circuits seperate
I mounted these in my spare tire compartment, easy place to splice into your wiring

 
Relays

Nice and simple. yes, the red wire is positive on with the switch. I will post a pic of my temporary fuel pump set up. I will retain the carb fan relay to run a fan for my oil cooler but will use the other relay used in the emission circuit for the pump.
 
Actually the carb cooling fan voltage is constant.

It is unswitched, i.e., hot all the time. Only the thermoswitch turns it on or off. So that will not work. This is true of the 79 and presumably 78.
 
Hot carb fan relay

True that is! If you remember hearing your carb fan turn on after you have shut the switch off! Good tip! I will have to revise the system a bit! The thermostatic switch must supply a ground to the fan relay that is hot all the time, however the red wire definitely shuts off the fuel pump with the switch off. Hmmm. diagram here I come.
 
Yep that's right, carb cooling fan wire is hot all the time.... but this is a nice clean 12v power feed for a pump /fan relay. .... provide the earth to it via the oil pressure light switch, and then the relay is only providing power to the pump when the engine is running, which is exactly what you want.

SteveC
 
relay power for fuel pump.

As it turns out I didn't use the carb fan relay which is why it worked. This one must be part of my unused evaporated system relay. Power is switched and this is on a California smog 77 model.
 
Finding the wires

Which Wire do I splice into for the ignition wire?

And same with the Oil Light? Which wire is that?

Kevin Cozzo said:
they make an oil pressure safety switch, but relay's are cheap. I rigged this up, works good. Switching relay chooses power from Ign/acc, or the actual start activation wire that goes to your solenoid...the other relay operates your oil light, keeping the 2 circuits seperate
I mounted these in my spare tire compartment, easy place to splice into your wiring

Click to expand...
 
oh sorry, been busy

I actually do use the wire that goes to the coil for ign+ wire, but I ran a heavy gauge wire years ago, and fused it up under the dash. never had a problem

Normally,the oil pressure sensor in the block is connected to the oil light in your dash. The light has + power when the ign is turned on, and the switch in the block is closed, while not running, keeping the light on, by grounding it.

So if you go in the spare tire area, you can find that wire going to the sender, and cut it in there....the side of the wire going into the hump to your dash goes to the light, the other goes to the sender.....

I believe the wire color is green...if your not for sure, put your battery back in, but put a 20 amp fuse in line on the battery cable, then touch the wire to ground with the key on
 
Don't use the ignition wire, there are other wires in the engine bay that are hot, either with ignition or all the time, you want a nice clean 12v to the coil with nothing else running on that circuit for best results..

The carby cooling fan has a wire that's hot all the time, and a nice clean 12v source. your not using this as you've got twin carbs. You could use this to power the relay, and then use the earth provided by the oil light switch to do the "activation" of the relay for you.

So carb cooling fan wire to terminal 30, loop this to 85, attach the earth "trigger' to 86, and power your fuel pump from 87.... very simple and pump turns off if the engine stops or you crash...cranking the engine will turn out the oil pressure light as this activates at something like 6psi. You could even run a supplementary ground into the cabin that completes an earth circuit via a push button switch if you want to prime the carbs... and it's an earth wire so very safe.


SteveC
 
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