<TABLE cellSpacing=1 cellPadding=6 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD colSpan=2><TABLE width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD style="PADDING-TOP: 4px" vAlign=top colSpan=2>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]Fiat as a snow plow and a couple of questions.<!-- google_ad_section_end -->
[/FONT][FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]January 6 2000 at 1:36 PM[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial][/FONT][/FONT]</TD><TD vAlign=top align=right>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]Stu Brennan [/FONT]</TD></TR><TR><TD vAlign=bottom colSpan=3><HR></TD></TR><TR><TD colSpan=3>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<!-- google_ad_section_start -->Just before xmas I ended up driving my fiat home in about 14 inches of snow. Believe it or not it went just fine with the air dam acting like a plow and the snow sliding up and over the hood.
Since the car is now in for its winter rebuild I am looking for parts and I had a couple of questions.
How hard is it to find a manifold for some weber 40's. There is a set for sale in the paper and I was interested but not if I cant get an intake manifold to fit. Anybody got one or a source for one? How big a weber can I get before I need to change the intake?
I want to replace the struts and I would appreciate your suggestions as to the best kind and again a source would be appreciated.
Thanks Stu Brennan<!-- google_ad_section_end -->
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[/FONT]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE></TD></TR><TR><TD>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]Author[/FONT]</TD><TD>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]Reply[/FONT]</TD></TR><TR><TD vAlign=top noWrap width="17.9%">[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<SCRIPT language=Javascript> <!-- var n54_em; n54_em = ""; n54_em = n54_em + "s";n54_em = n54_em + "e";n54_em = n54_em + "a";n54_em = n54_em + "t";n54_em = n54_em + "t";n54_em = n54_em + "l";n54_em = n54_em + "e";n54_em = n54_em + "x";n54_em = n54_em + "1";n54_em = n54_em + "9";n54_em = n54_em + "@";n54_em = n54_em + "y";n54_em = n54_em + "a";n54_em = n54_em + "h";n54_em = n54_em + "o";n54_em = n54_em + "o";n54_em = n54_em + ".";n54_em = n54_em + "c";n54_em = n54_em + "o";n54_em = n54_em + "m"; document.write("Mac"); // --> </SCRIPT>Mac <NOSCRIPT> Mac </NOSCRIPT>[/FONT]
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial][/FONT]</TD><TD style="PADDING-LEFT: 15px" vAlign=top><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD align=left>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<!-- google_ad_section_start -->manifolds & struts, manifolds & struts...<!-- google_ad_section_end -->
[/FONT][FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial][/FONT]</TD><TD vAlign=top align=right>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]January 7 2000, 11:35 AM [/FONT]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD style="PADDING-LEFT: 15px">
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<!-- google_ad_section_start -->I have no input on the manifold question (hopefully some kind soul will pick that question up & answer it) but as for the struts, I can say this:
Koni are of course the top choice, but have not been manufactured for the X1/9 in a long time - thus they are very scarce and rather expensive (even if I could find some I don't know wether I could afford them!)
In lieu of Konis, about the best strut next in line would be the "KYB silver" struts. These are getting harder to find as well, but are still around. Last time I checked, you could get them at Les Schwab for about $60 each for the X1/9...
Just don't let them install the things! Do it yourself and know it was done right.
Of course, if neither Koni nor KYB are your bag, you could always convert to a coil-over suspension like the racers often do, although methinks that might be a little over the top for typical street use. -Mac.
<!-- google_ad_section_end -->
[/FONT]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=4 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD vAlign=top align=left>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial] [/FONT]</TD><TD vAlign=top noWrap align=right>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]
[/FONT]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE></TD></TR><TR><TD vAlign=top noWrap width="17.9%">[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]Stu Brennan[/FONT]
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial][/FONT]</TD><TD style="PADDING-LEFT: 30px" vAlign=top><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD align=left>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<!-- google_ad_section_start -->Struts<!-- google_ad_section_end -->
[/FONT][FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial][/FONT]</TD><TD vAlign=top align=right>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]January 7 2000, 12:08 PM [/FONT]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD style="PADDING-LEFT: 30px">
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<!-- google_ad_section_start -->Thanks for the info I'll call around to see if a dealer carries the KYB's around here. I seem to remember ulix did an adaption of some koni's. Why are the koni's better? Thanks and I'll pass on the coil over for this rebuild maybe when I get into autox then I'll try that package. Thanks for the info. Stu<!-- google_ad_section_end -->
[/FONT]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=4 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD vAlign=top align=left>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial] [/FONT]</TD><TD vAlign=top noWrap align=right>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]
[/FONT]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE></TD></TR><TR><TD vAlign=top noWrap width="17.9%">[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]Mac[/FONT]
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial][/FONT]</TD><TD style="PADDING-LEFT: 45px" vAlign=top><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD align=left>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<!-- google_ad_section_start -->why the Konis are better...<!-- google_ad_section_end -->
[/FONT][FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial][/FONT]</TD><TD vAlign=top align=right>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]January 7 2000, 2:19 PM [/FONT]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD style="PADDING-LEFT: 45px">
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<!-- google_ad_section_start -->
Because they are made of Unobtanium
<!-- google_ad_section_end -->
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[/FONT]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE></TD></TR><TR><TD vAlign=top noWrap width="17.9%">[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<SCRIPT language=Javascript> <!-- var n54_em; n54_em = ""; n54_em = n54_em + "x";n54_em = n54_em + "1";n54_em = n54_em + "9";n54_em = n54_em + "p";n54_em = n54_em + "o";n54_em = n54_em + "t";n54_em = n54_em + "t";n54_em = n54_em + "s";n54_em = n54_em + "y";n54_em = n54_em + "@";n54_em = n54_em + "a";n54_em = n54_em + "o";n54_em = n54_em + "l";n54_em = n54_em + ".";n54_em = n54_em + "c";n54_em = n54_em + "o";n54_em = n54_em + "m"; document.write("Dave Potts"); // --> </SCRIPT>Dave Potts <NOSCRIPT> Dave Potts </NOSCRIPT>[/FONT]
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial][/FONT]</TD><TD style="PADDING-LEFT: 60px" vAlign=top><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD align=left>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<!-- google_ad_section_start -->Struts & carbs<!-- google_ad_section_end -->
[/FONT][FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial][/FONT]</TD><TD vAlign=top align=right>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]January 9 2000, 3:42 AM [/FONT]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD style="PADDING-LEFT: 60px">
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<!-- google_ad_section_start -->An alternative to Koni struts may be Leda, although I couldn't say if they are available in the US. Do you have Bilstein shocks over there?
On the subject of bigger carbs. The carb you choose should be seen as one component in a balanced upgrade of the engines' breathing.
For street use a pair of 40DCNF's is a popular choice. The twins giving good gas speed (torque) at low revs and enough main choke to increase bmp at higher revs.
Single cabs are more problematic. You could source a Weber twin-choke, say a 38/36DCD, and jet it accordingly, but my own choice, given that I lived on your side of the pond, would be to contact Offenhauser and see if they have a conversion kit for one of their 2bbl carbs. (Heresy, I know!)
Don't forget:
1), If you increase the choke sizes of the carb, you will probably need to modify the pipe sizes on the headers, muffler and connecting pipes. The engine is a pump and efficient exhaustion of burnt expanding gases is a requirement. If the gases cannot escape and hang around in the cylinder, they will probably hold up the ingress of the next slug of fuel/air mix. This could actually result in less performance from the carb upgrade than the standard set up!
Best case scenario:
Twin carbs - mild road cam (torque) - 4/2/1 header set and porting of the head. Lowered suspension. Transistorised ignition. Good plugs. Good air cleaner set. The correct fuel.
(The figure of 125bhp is achievable without recourse to a carb change and requires only head porting, transistorised ignition, K&N filter (or similar)and jets set to run richer, a free-flow exhaust system and two/three electrode spark plugs.
This should result in 0-60 in @8/8.5 secs top ending @ 118/120 mph) (figures for 1500)
Lastly PLEASE NOTE!
"If you increase the horses DON'T FORGET THE REINS!"
It's an old adage but still carries a punch. There is absolutely no excuse for adding up to 50% more power to your car and ignoring the fact that you will be approaching corners and immovable objects at up to 30 mph quicker.
No better way has been found to shorten an already compact 2 seaters' wheelbase than to ignore this advice! Upgrade your braking system to match the increased performance of your engine.
Serious increases in bhp/torque will render the standard shift fragile. In the UK we insert Uno turbo internals. As this model has never been imported into the States, I cannot recommend a suitable alternative. Over to you, Mac!
ps inform your insurer! Better to pay $100 extra than to lose your cover and owe $$$$thousands!
Dave Potts
Tech Officer X1/9 OC (UK)
Editor - Sporting FIATS Club (UK)
<!-- google_ad_section_end -->
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[/FONT]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE></TD></TR><TR><TD vAlign=top noWrap width="17.9%">[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<SCRIPT language=Javascript> <!-- var n54_em; n54_em = ""; n54_em = n54_em + "g";n54_em = n54_em + "r";n54_em = n54_em + "8";n54_em = n54_em + "x";n54_em = n54_em + "t";n54_em = n54_em + "c";n54_em = n54_em + "@";n54_em = n54_em + "g";n54_em = n54_em + "t";n54_em = n54_em + "e";n54_em = n54_em + ".";n54_em = n54_em + "n";n54_em = n54_em + "e";n54_em = n54_em + "t"; document.write("Mike Mittelstead"); // --> </SCRIPT>Mike Mittelstead <NOSCRIPT> Mike Mittelstead </NOSCRIPT>[/FONT]
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial][/FONT]</TD><TD style="PADDING-LEFT: 45px" vAlign=top><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD align=left>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<!-- google_ad_section_start -->Coupla ways to go with the KYBs<!-- google_ad_section_end -->
[/FONT][FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial][/FONT]</TD><TD vAlign=top align=right>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]January 7 2000, 10:44 PM [/FONT]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD style="PADDING-LEFT: 45px">
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<!-- google_ad_section_start -->If you have a 1300 X with removable strut inserts, then you can adapt Rabbit strut inserts into the X housings, as Ulix has so clearly documented on his website. I did this a couple years ago, since KYB inserts for the X have been unavailable for several years. I paid $37 each for KYB inserts locally (Oregon). Or another brand that has a Rabbit fitment could be adapted.
Your other option is a complete strut assembly from KYB, called the GR2 (I think). These are about $60 each. Either of these offer a sporting dampening rate without rattling your teeth loose.
PST in New Jersey sells KYB mailorder for a few bucks less.
I've also heard that Sears sells a non-sporting insert that fits in the early strut tubes.
If you have the early style struts that still have their Fiat innards (not inserts), then you can replace the hydraulic fluid with fresh fluid.
I've not done this, but I suppose one could experiment with heavier weight fluid for more dampening. Assuming that yours aren't leaking, since the seal kits aren't available.
Be aware that the externally threaded nut that holds the innards in an early strut tube is a bearcat to remove. I made a tool to remove them, but it's still a bugger. The GR2s are an easy bolt-in operation. MM/OR<!-- google_ad_section_end -->
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[/FONT]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE></TD></TR><TR><TD vAlign=top noWrap width="17.9%">[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<SCRIPT language=Javascript> <!-- var n54_em; n54_em = ""; n54_em = n54_em + "s";n54_em = n54_em + "t";n54_em = n54_em + "e";n54_em = n54_em + "v";n54_em = n54_em + "e";n54_em = n54_em + "h";n54_em = n54_em + "h";n54_em = n54_em + "@";n54_em = n54_em + "h";n54_em = n54_em + "i";n54_em = n54_em + "w";n54_em = n54_em + "a";n54_em = n54_em + "a";n54_em = n54_em + "y";n54_em = n54_em + ".";n54_em = n54_em + "n";n54_em = n54_em + "e";n54_em = n54_em + "t"; document.write("Steve Hoelscher"); // --> </SCRIPT>Steve Hoelscher <NOSCRIPT> Steve Hoelscher </NOSCRIPT>[/FONT]
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial][/FONT]</TD><TD style="PADDING-LEFT: 45px" vAlign=top><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD align=left>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<!-- google_ad_section_start -->Why are Konis better?...<!-- google_ad_section_end -->
[/FONT][FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial][/FONT]</TD><TD vAlign=top align=right>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]January 8 2000, 4:12 PM [/FONT]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD style="PADDING-LEFT: 45px">
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<!-- google_ad_section_start -->If you ever get the answer to that question, you will make a lot of money. There are lots of shock companies that will pay you big buck for that information
Just be satisfied that Koni makes one of the best shocks out there.
Steve
<!-- google_ad_section_end -->
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[/FONT][FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]January 6 2000 at 1:36 PM[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial][/FONT][/FONT]</TD><TD vAlign=top align=right>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]Stu Brennan [/FONT]</TD></TR><TR><TD vAlign=bottom colSpan=3><HR></TD></TR><TR><TD colSpan=3>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<!-- google_ad_section_start -->Just before xmas I ended up driving my fiat home in about 14 inches of snow. Believe it or not it went just fine with the air dam acting like a plow and the snow sliding up and over the hood.
Since the car is now in for its winter rebuild I am looking for parts and I had a couple of questions.
How hard is it to find a manifold for some weber 40's. There is a set for sale in the paper and I was interested but not if I cant get an intake manifold to fit. Anybody got one or a source for one? How big a weber can I get before I need to change the intake?
I want to replace the struts and I would appreciate your suggestions as to the best kind and again a source would be appreciated.
Thanks Stu Brennan<!-- google_ad_section_end -->
[/FONT]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><TABLE cellPadding=4 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD vAlign=top noWrap align=left>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial] [/FONT]</TD><TD vAlign=top align=right>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial][/FONT]</TD><TD style="PADDING-LEFT: 15px" vAlign=top><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD align=left>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<!-- google_ad_section_start -->manifolds & struts, manifolds & struts...<!-- google_ad_section_end -->
[/FONT][FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial][/FONT]</TD><TD vAlign=top align=right>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]January 7 2000, 11:35 AM [/FONT]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD style="PADDING-LEFT: 15px">
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<!-- google_ad_section_start -->I have no input on the manifold question (hopefully some kind soul will pick that question up & answer it) but as for the struts, I can say this:
Koni are of course the top choice, but have not been manufactured for the X1/9 in a long time - thus they are very scarce and rather expensive (even if I could find some I don't know wether I could afford them!)
In lieu of Konis, about the best strut next in line would be the "KYB silver" struts. These are getting harder to find as well, but are still around. Last time I checked, you could get them at Les Schwab for about $60 each for the X1/9...
Just don't let them install the things! Do it yourself and know it was done right.
Of course, if neither Koni nor KYB are your bag, you could always convert to a coil-over suspension like the racers often do, although methinks that might be a little over the top for typical street use. -Mac.
<!-- google_ad_section_end -->
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[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial][/FONT]</TD><TD style="PADDING-LEFT: 30px" vAlign=top><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD align=left>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<!-- google_ad_section_start -->Struts<!-- google_ad_section_end -->
[/FONT][FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial][/FONT]</TD><TD vAlign=top align=right>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]January 7 2000, 12:08 PM [/FONT]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD style="PADDING-LEFT: 30px">
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<!-- google_ad_section_start -->Thanks for the info I'll call around to see if a dealer carries the KYB's around here. I seem to remember ulix did an adaption of some koni's. Why are the koni's better? Thanks and I'll pass on the coil over for this rebuild maybe when I get into autox then I'll try that package. Thanks for the info. Stu<!-- google_ad_section_end -->
[/FONT]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=4 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD vAlign=top align=left>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial] [/FONT]</TD><TD vAlign=top noWrap align=right>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial][/FONT]</TD><TD style="PADDING-LEFT: 45px" vAlign=top><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD align=left>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<!-- google_ad_section_start -->why the Konis are better...<!-- google_ad_section_end -->
[/FONT][FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial][/FONT]</TD><TD vAlign=top align=right>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]January 7 2000, 2:19 PM [/FONT]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD style="PADDING-LEFT: 45px">
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<!-- google_ad_section_start -->
Because they are made of Unobtanium
<!-- google_ad_section_end -->
[/FONT]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=4 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD vAlign=top align=left>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial] [/FONT]</TD><TD vAlign=top noWrap align=right>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial][/FONT]</TD><TD style="PADDING-LEFT: 60px" vAlign=top><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD align=left>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<!-- google_ad_section_start -->Struts & carbs<!-- google_ad_section_end -->
[/FONT][FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial][/FONT]</TD><TD vAlign=top align=right>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]January 9 2000, 3:42 AM [/FONT]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD style="PADDING-LEFT: 60px">
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<!-- google_ad_section_start -->An alternative to Koni struts may be Leda, although I couldn't say if they are available in the US. Do you have Bilstein shocks over there?
On the subject of bigger carbs. The carb you choose should be seen as one component in a balanced upgrade of the engines' breathing.
For street use a pair of 40DCNF's is a popular choice. The twins giving good gas speed (torque) at low revs and enough main choke to increase bmp at higher revs.
Single cabs are more problematic. You could source a Weber twin-choke, say a 38/36DCD, and jet it accordingly, but my own choice, given that I lived on your side of the pond, would be to contact Offenhauser and see if they have a conversion kit for one of their 2bbl carbs. (Heresy, I know!)
Don't forget:
1), If you increase the choke sizes of the carb, you will probably need to modify the pipe sizes on the headers, muffler and connecting pipes. The engine is a pump and efficient exhaustion of burnt expanding gases is a requirement. If the gases cannot escape and hang around in the cylinder, they will probably hold up the ingress of the next slug of fuel/air mix. This could actually result in less performance from the carb upgrade than the standard set up!
Best case scenario:
Twin carbs - mild road cam (torque) - 4/2/1 header set and porting of the head. Lowered suspension. Transistorised ignition. Good plugs. Good air cleaner set. The correct fuel.
(The figure of 125bhp is achievable without recourse to a carb change and requires only head porting, transistorised ignition, K&N filter (or similar)and jets set to run richer, a free-flow exhaust system and two/three electrode spark plugs.
This should result in 0-60 in @8/8.5 secs top ending @ 118/120 mph) (figures for 1500)
Lastly PLEASE NOTE!
"If you increase the horses DON'T FORGET THE REINS!"
It's an old adage but still carries a punch. There is absolutely no excuse for adding up to 50% more power to your car and ignoring the fact that you will be approaching corners and immovable objects at up to 30 mph quicker.
No better way has been found to shorten an already compact 2 seaters' wheelbase than to ignore this advice! Upgrade your braking system to match the increased performance of your engine.
Serious increases in bhp/torque will render the standard shift fragile. In the UK we insert Uno turbo internals. As this model has never been imported into the States, I cannot recommend a suitable alternative. Over to you, Mac!
ps inform your insurer! Better to pay $100 extra than to lose your cover and owe $$$$thousands!
Dave Potts
Tech Officer X1/9 OC (UK)
Editor - Sporting FIATS Club (UK)
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[/FONT]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=4 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD vAlign=top align=left>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial] [/FONT]</TD><TD vAlign=top noWrap align=right>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial][/FONT]</TD><TD style="PADDING-LEFT: 45px" vAlign=top><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD align=left>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<!-- google_ad_section_start -->Coupla ways to go with the KYBs<!-- google_ad_section_end -->
[/FONT][FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial][/FONT]</TD><TD vAlign=top align=right>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]January 7 2000, 10:44 PM [/FONT]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD style="PADDING-LEFT: 45px">
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<!-- google_ad_section_start -->If you have a 1300 X with removable strut inserts, then you can adapt Rabbit strut inserts into the X housings, as Ulix has so clearly documented on his website. I did this a couple years ago, since KYB inserts for the X have been unavailable for several years. I paid $37 each for KYB inserts locally (Oregon). Or another brand that has a Rabbit fitment could be adapted.
Your other option is a complete strut assembly from KYB, called the GR2 (I think). These are about $60 each. Either of these offer a sporting dampening rate without rattling your teeth loose.
PST in New Jersey sells KYB mailorder for a few bucks less.
I've also heard that Sears sells a non-sporting insert that fits in the early strut tubes.
If you have the early style struts that still have their Fiat innards (not inserts), then you can replace the hydraulic fluid with fresh fluid.
I've not done this, but I suppose one could experiment with heavier weight fluid for more dampening. Assuming that yours aren't leaking, since the seal kits aren't available.
Be aware that the externally threaded nut that holds the innards in an early strut tube is a bearcat to remove. I made a tool to remove them, but it's still a bugger. The GR2s are an easy bolt-in operation. MM/OR<!-- google_ad_section_end -->
[/FONT]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=4 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD vAlign=top align=left>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial] [/FONT]</TD><TD vAlign=top noWrap align=right>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial][/FONT]</TD><TD style="PADDING-LEFT: 45px" vAlign=top><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD align=left>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<!-- google_ad_section_start -->Why are Konis better?...<!-- google_ad_section_end -->
[/FONT][FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial][/FONT]</TD><TD vAlign=top align=right>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]January 8 2000, 4:12 PM [/FONT]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD style="PADDING-LEFT: 45px">
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<!-- google_ad_section_start -->If you ever get the answer to that question, you will make a lot of money. There are lots of shock companies that will pay you big buck for that information
Just be satisfied that Koni makes one of the best shocks out there.
Steve
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