Steve Thomas
True Classic
Looks like a relay missing completly? That black plastic thing at the end of all that purple is a relay holder - should have a relay
First car project, help to turn engine
- Thread starter NJJo
- Start date
You talking about circle 1 or circle 2? Circle 2, I'll pick up a relay. Dark and light purple in circle 1. Looks like both are supposed to be connected to Fuse N? Or it's wired correctly and just looks weird to me? It's been so long but mom remembered the horn working. (If your talking about the relay that connects to the black relay holder, that was just out of frame.)
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Steve Thomas
True Classic
It is very unlikley that any electrical trouble you have is in behind the relays. Possible, sure, but not highest probability. And if you jump wires etc in trhis area, you are not really leaning much. Better to work from the ends [where actual bits like horns are]. Yes, check the fuses and check them again every time you jump something or otherwise mess around with wires. 
I think you should carefully reassemble the relays etc back where they should be. Check and replace fuses [check they are the right size as well as not blown] and then work back from an item - say the horns. Are they there? [might sound silly but...] Are they OK? [not full of mud, mouse nests etc] Take horns off, clean up and try powering it directly from the battery [this should be VERY LOUD]. If good, and fuse is good and relay clicks ten there is a wiring problem so start at the horn end and trace back looking for damaged, pinched, stretched, cut, disconnected wires etc.
I think you should carefully reassemble the relays etc back where they should be. Check and replace fuses [check they are the right size as well as not blown] and then work back from an item - say the horns. Are they there? [might sound silly but...] Are they OK? [not full of mud, mouse nests etc] Take horns off, clean up and try powering it directly from the battery [this should be VERY LOUD]. If good, and fuse is good and relay clicks ten there is a wiring problem so start at the horn end and trace back looking for damaged, pinched, stretched, cut, disconnected wires etc.
Good advice, horn worked out of the car and then I found the problem(s). The Ground Bloom Bus Terminal and connections were caked with rust. Almost all of the unprotected ones broke off when I removed them. Ran out of connections for the right side. Sanded/Polished the left side one and got the Rad fan to stay running.It is very unlikley that any electrical trouble you have is in behind the relays. Possible, sure, but not highest probability. And if you jump wires etc in trhis area, you are not really leaning much. Better to work from the ends [where actual bits like horns are]. Yes, check the fuses and check them again every time you jump something or otherwise mess around with wires.
I think you should carefully reassemble the relays etc back where they should be. Check and replace fuses [check they are the right size as well as not blown] and then work back from an item - say the horns. Are they there? [might sound silly but...] Are they OK? [not full of mud, mouse nests etc] Take horns off, clean up and try powering it directly from the battery [this should be VERY LOUD]. If good, and fuse is good and relay clicks ten there is a wiring problem so start at the horn end and trace back looking for damaged, pinched, stretched, cut, disconnected wires etc.
Steve Thomas
True Classic
I think so. Based on my cars, if there is a mount, it has a relay.
Steve Thomas
True Classic
The difference is that you do not have any empty relay mounts. He has a mount with no relay.
Steve Thomas
True Classic
Moi?Are you saying Fiat was consistent in how they handled things from year to year?
No, except for consistently trying to shave costs! If there is a base and if it has wiring, it very likely needs a relay. @NJJo - what color are the wires on the back of that relay base that does not have a relay [far right position]?Two pinks, blue black, purple black. Also found out my heater valve is leaking, reading old posts for replacing that. Part comes in Tuesday. Do you guys use the red gasket silicone or make your own with some material to cut?Moi?
The water pump comes tomorrow. Any tips for that install? Remove alternator and then pump? Go the extra step and remove housing to check gap clearance. Do I have to mess with the belts besides the one on the Alt and water pump? There's a lot of extra steps on cars with AC but mines non- AC.
Lastly, did all fiat's come with two horns? I only had one in the left side and I couldn't find any loose wires in the right side. It's light blue so I'll look more tomorrow.
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Steve Thomas
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I think this is for power windows - the up/down arrow.
No power windows or locks on mine. Just there "in case" of upgrading?
Steve Thomas
True Classic
no idea and I could be wrong!
Thanks. This is a great forum and community for the X1/9s! No, but I can order one. Just got the water pump housing off the car. It was a pain in the ass trying to do it how the service manual says. The alternator bolt wouldn't budge. I hammered the backend till it was flush with the alternator. I just sprayed PB blaster and was able to move it up and down. If that didn't work I was going to tie a rope around the bolt and yank it off with my car. I ended up using a Dremel and cutting the two clamps on the other end of the water pipe. They were rusted and beyond saving, one was a cotter pin. I was able to slide it out in one big piece after that.
Getting a v belt tomorrow and installing it should be a walk in the park. Just got to connect the water pipe to hose line and put the housing back in place. Clearance was right for the pump and housing. I only have a new gasket for the new pump to housing. For the other two ends can I use this? https://www.amazon.com/J-B-Weld-31314-Temperature-Silicone/dp/B00ID8IUJY/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3ILK4FLOMVW45&keywords=red+gasket&qid=1700537794&sprefix=red+gasket,aps,144&sr=8-3&th=1
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KBabcock
True Classic
After reading through all this we have chewed a lot of the same projects.
Penetrating oil is our friend no doubt and never underestimate letting that oil sit for days.
Here is a pic of how I installed my radio, used a pieces of textured plastic cut to fix the area and then cut to allow the radio to fit tightly.
Hi, If the car hasn't been used for only a couple of years if and put away for warm, dry storage it should start but I would always make sure that the engine has oil and turns overturns over manually at the crank pulley nut. Always remove the spark plugs first or you will be pushing against compression. This applies to all engines regardless of make. If not used for a longer time a small blend of diesel and ATF will help loosen the rings but may take a few days. Engines stored without spark plugs will usually accrue rust in the bore and rushing to the starter motor will create serious damage to the bore and rings. To test starter attach a suitable starter cable from the block to the frame and if is starts that's the problem, if not with a small hammer tap the starter solenoid as they sometimes stick if not used or a time. A good engine with plugs removed will rotate easily through 360 degrees, that all it needs. When it starts look for oil pressure before going any further. When it comes to re-reshing an engine patience pays. Rushing doesn't. Stuck rings or rust can ruin a bore in less that one revolution. It pays to take time. On an old engine a borescope is sometimes a good first step. Happy Motoring.
Alex(Tenerife)
True Classic
I recall putting a block of wood between the alternator and the floor on a jacked up car and lowering the jack to get the bolt started. Using the weight of the car to work for me for a change. (after copious amounts of penetrating oil of course)