Tank is dropped! The outside is great, the inside is yikes. I'll be soaking it in rust remover for the weekend. I'll be sanding and treating the rust I see in the cavity. What's next on the list while the tank is de-rusting? It's going to be a multiday process for sure. I have the rust primer to pour and coat it afterwards.
First car project, help to turn engine
- Thread starter NJJo
- Start date
kmead
Old enough to know better
The inside should clean up pretty well. There are a number of approaches to this. What you are seeing is likely not rust but what was left over from the fuel changing over time.
Those who have done this will likely chime in with some preferred materials to put in there. Many start with something like Oxyclean
That's awesome news, I'll try that before I do the rust soak! When I was getting the fuel tank out I noticed radiator coolent coming down the oil block. I'm going to follow the hoses and see if there's a leak somewhere. Anything else I should be looking for or replacing? I got new 5/16 fuel line but what's the correct size for the fuel filter on top?
dllubin
Don
I saw the maximum dose of OxiClean on the box and doubled it. As far as fuel filters go, I use an in line filter before the pump and one after the pump. Some people use a course filter before the pump to prevent a total clog. I'm using a WIX 33001 12 micron fuel filter before and after the pump with 1/4" fuel line (Gates Barricade 27313 - SAE 30R14T1). Note: This is a carbed car.
Last edited:
kmead
Old enough to know better
With FI you use 12mm from the tank to the pump, I have an inline coarse filter before the pump. Then 7.5mm pump to filter and the same from the filter to the metal line. Buy good FI type clamps, not typical hose clamps.
Fuel Injected Fuel Line and Fuel Filter Replacement
A few years ago I had one of my OE cloth covered fuel lines from the pump to the filter burst, no surprise as it was well past its use by date. I had bought some 7.5mm fuel hose prior to this as it was my intent to replace them anyway so I was prepared for this eventuality. Happily this is a...
xwebforums.com
First soak of the fuel tank is done. I poured another mix in and afterwards will do the de-rust and primer. I'm replacing all the fuel lines and was wondering if there's anything worth reusing? I put red arrows next to the things to reuse, I also ran across this green wire that doesn't connect to anything?!?
Lastly! I found where the radiator coolant was leaking from. Can I just throw some sealant around up there and see if that holds? It looked like the screw was a little loose and a slight leakage from there? Idk, it just looked like a pain to get the cannister off.
Lastly! I found where the radiator coolant was leaking from. Can I just throw some sealant around up there and see if that holds? It looked like the screw was a little loose and a slight leakage from there? Idk, it just looked like a pain to get the cannister off.
Attachments
SuperTopo
True Classic
Yes, re-use the metal tubes and check valves. Take note of which hose goes on the bottom "Y". The on e with the red tape on it has that red tape on it for a reason, there's an orifice on the leg.
The coolant expansion tank is not a big deal, I suggest you take it out and make sure it's not cracked. You can make removal/installation of it 50 times easier with a nut plate, I made a 'stud' plate for mine. I think Midwest-Bayless sells a stud plate as well. Worth the money.
The coolant expansion tank is not a big deal, I suggest you take it out and make sure it's not cracked. You can make removal/installation of it 50 times easier with a nut plate, I made a 'stud' plate for mine. I think Midwest-Bayless sells a stud plate as well. Worth the money.
That's a good idea with the nut plate!
I'm replacing the fuel lines while the tank is still de-rusting. I found the leak in the coolant tank, It drips on the backside hole (that's what she said).
I'm going to Jerry Rig my remaining JD Weld in it. Is the middle tunnel necessary or just a design thing? Before I started this project I bought some thinking I could patch up some things and yada yada yada it's starting to dry out on me. It'd give me an excuse to use it. (I'll order a replacement don't worry!)
I saw some pictures of fiats on here having just an air filter on the end? My picture is supposed to be; red is gone and green is the filter. Any Pro's and Con's for it?
I'm going to Jerry Rig my remaining JD Weld in it. Is the middle tunnel necessary or just a design thing? Before I started this project I bought some thinking I could patch up some things and yada yada yada it's starting to dry out on me. It'd give me an excuse to use it. (I'll order a replacement don't worry!)
I saw some pictures of fiats on here having just an air filter on the end? My picture is supposed to be; red is gone and green is the filter. Any Pro's and Con's for it?
Attachments
Last edited:
ng_randolph
Bjorn H
It is common for the plastic coolant reservoirs to start leaking from the belly button as they age. A few model years had painted plain steel reservoirs, and for 1978 only the cars came with stainless steel reservoirs. The stainless steel variety is the one to get, and both Midwest-Bayless and Vick Autosport have stainless steel reproductions. A bit pricey, for sure, but I would put in a used plastic tank only if it were free.
dllubin
Don
My 74 came with a painted plain steel reservoir. It started getting rust pin holes after about 2 years, and almost all above the water line. I managed to get a few more years out of it by filling the pinholes with a sheet metal screw and silicone. After a few years there were several dozen sheet metal screws holding it together. Fortunately, the plastic version became available by then so I switched. The only issue I found with my plastic one was rust on the metal piece where the cap attaches. I managed to get the rust off and get some paint on it - so far, so good.
Yeah, I'm just going to plug that belly button.
I did the tank process by the book so it took longer than I thought. The excess sealer dried up before it could completely drain from the tank, I'm sure doing it in 100 degree weather yesterday didn't help. I'm hoping it won't be that big of a deal.
Would anyone be able to share pictures of the fuel lines (fuel injection) on the bottom of the tank? I don't want to screw anything up when I put it back together. Thanks!
Would anyone be able to share pictures of the fuel lines (fuel injection) on the bottom of the tank? I don't want to screw anything up when I put it back together. Thanks!
Attachments
Today's the day I put the fuel tank back in, finally! I have all the fuel lines in place and connected except the 4 tank lines. However, I don't know where this one connects too. This is the orifice that hangs loose/open I'm assuming/hoping?
The hardest part about all of this were removing the rubber mounts on the pump and filter brackets. When I removed one end the rubber always fell apart in the middle and the other side seemed like they were welded on? Whatever, I ended up using my Dremel to cut and remove the bolts. I sanded to bare metal and put on a couple coats of black rust-oleum paint. Got some new rubber mounts from the Zon and voila.
With the tank soaking and drying I sanded the rust spots in the tank cavity, Bondo'd the two holes, and gave it a couple rust-oleum paint coats. I didn't bother sanding or making it look pretty.
The hardest part about all of this were removing the rubber mounts on the pump and filter brackets. When I removed one end the rubber always fell apart in the middle and the other side seemed like they were welded on? Whatever, I ended up using my Dremel to cut and remove the bolts. I sanded to bare metal and put on a couple coats of black rust-oleum paint. Got some new rubber mounts from the Zon and voila.
With the tank soaking and drying I sanded the rust spots in the tank cavity, Bondo'd the two holes, and gave it a couple rust-oleum paint coats. I didn't bother sanding or making it look pretty.
Attachments
Good news! I got all the leaks fixed, hoses changed, and tank installed. I was able to start the car and hear her idle for the first time! Stage 1 done, now time for stage 2!
Stage 2 is to get her driving. These are the issue's I've noticed. When I turn the key to start, I hear a click but no humming from the fuel pump. I should hear a hum correct? Would the car start and idle (kind of) with a bad pump or the cable lines on backwards (I have Green on pos / Darker on neg) I'll test that after I post this. The car has a semi idle.?. When I start the car I'm keeping my foot lightly on the gas or else she'll die 3 out of 4 times. The other time she's able to start and keep herself idled, I let it be for a couple minutes to inspect the engine bay before she died. I've browsed through other posts about the fuel pump. I'll do the open/close flap test and find the fuse / relay? Whatever, I'm learning as I go!
She has a constant high pitch whining/squeak/whistle-ish noise? It sounded like it was coming from the fuel injections or the belt area. My next step would be to replace the belts and get new fuel injectors/clean that area up. When she's running it feels bumpy, jolty? It's not smooth. (duh!) I'm trying to be detailed.
I can start her without holding the clutch in. Is that normal because shes an older vehicle or is the clutch stuck? It's really hard to put her in gear when she's running, if I do manage to get her in gear, she dies. If I start in first, she'll jolt/lurch forward and die. (same with reverse.) I'm reading the fuel injection troubleshooting guide. I'll see what I can do from that.
Thanks everyone for all your help so far. Getting her to kind of idle is a win in my book! This has been a great place to learn about the fiat/vehicles. It's giving me some confidence to try and do some vehicle repairs on my own. (going to try changing brake lines on a 92 ranger this weekend)
Stage 2 is to get her driving. These are the issue's I've noticed. When I turn the key to start, I hear a click but no humming from the fuel pump. I should hear a hum correct? Would the car start and idle (kind of) with a bad pump or the cable lines on backwards (I have Green on pos / Darker on neg) I'll test that after I post this. The car has a semi idle.?. When I start the car I'm keeping my foot lightly on the gas or else she'll die 3 out of 4 times. The other time she's able to start and keep herself idled, I let it be for a couple minutes to inspect the engine bay before she died. I've browsed through other posts about the fuel pump. I'll do the open/close flap test and find the fuse / relay? Whatever, I'm learning as I go!
She has a constant high pitch whining/squeak/whistle-ish noise? It sounded like it was coming from the fuel injections or the belt area. My next step would be to replace the belts and get new fuel injectors/clean that area up. When she's running it feels bumpy, jolty? It's not smooth. (duh!) I'm trying to be detailed.
I can start her without holding the clutch in. Is that normal because shes an older vehicle or is the clutch stuck? It's really hard to put her in gear when she's running, if I do manage to get her in gear, she dies. If I start in first, she'll jolt/lurch forward and die. (same with reverse.) I'm reading the fuel injection troubleshooting guide. I'll see what I can do from that.
Thanks everyone for all your help so far. Getting her to kind of idle is a win in my book! This has been a great place to learn about the fiat/vehicles. It's giving me some confidence to try and do some vehicle repairs on my own. (going to try changing brake lines on a 92 ranger this weekend)
If you have a whistle noise, you may want to start examining all the vacuum lines. Some of your idle issues could be the result of "false air" getting into the system after the air flow meter. Also check the large accordion intake hose the aux air valve hose for cracks. Any unmetered air entering the system will cause issues.
You can start the car without using the clutch as long as the transmission is in neutral. If the car has been sitting for a long time, the clutch can rust to the flywheel.
You can start the car without using the clutch as long as the transmission is in neutral. If the car has been sitting for a long time, the clutch can rust to the flywheel.
JKIDD
Auto Addict
My clutch has stuck to the flywheel after sitting more times than I can count. Make sure your clutch hydraulics are functioning properly. I started the car in gear & jumped on & off the gas, with the clutch depressed, to "jolt" it free. Once I have to get it up to faster speeds. I got pretty good at shifting clutchless. Hit the brakes hard & brief & eventually it popped.
ng_randolph
Bjorn H
When you turn the key to "run" the pump should not run. It should run with the key in "start", but you won't hear it over the starter. To check, remove the duct between the air filter can and the Air Flow Meter. Turn the key to "run" then poke your finger into the AFM to open the vane / trap door / flapper, and the pump should turn on.
I will give the vacuum lines a thorough inspection. The clutch is a different story.
I have a neighbor who does car work come and look at it. The oil light is on, but he said he saw the oil moving and spilling out when he took the cap off. He said it's probably a bad sensor but to replace it and make sure the light turns off. He said the distributor cap and top rotor looks like ****, either replace them or clean them to see if that makes the car idle better. To replace the belts since it's been 20 years, and he couldn't really check anything since the cover was on.
Lastly, that I have no clutch! I knew and expected that. The car was last driven in 97, the clutch was worked on/bled so it could be moved into the corner of the garage where it sat till this summer. The slave has a whole bunch of nuts on it, you can see the last one sticking out in the photo, while I filled in the rest.
I could bleed the clutch and try to drive it around the block but I'd rather just replace the slave, master, lines, and be done with it. I don't want any surprises popping up because I put a band-aid on it.
What you guys think? Is that a good outline for the next part of my fiat journey? Would corroded terminals, connections on the distributor have anything to do with the high pitch whiney I hear?
