First legal drive #1127

dherr

dherr

True Classic
Couple of updates, got the car legally registered, tagged and insured so now I can drive it and see what to fix first. The first thing was to remove the rear panel and glued back all the broken tabs so it would bolt on tightly as I noticed putting the tag on that it was completely free on the drivers side. With that fixed, I took it out for a few mile drive today to see what needs to be done.

Gauges
So the Speedo and Tach are not working. I understand that the speedo is a cable driven and the tach is electric, so different issues. The oil pressure gauge seems to work, rises and falls on revs, temp gauge sits at 260 (ground issue?) and finally the brake and generator lights are on?

Driving
Brakes seem very heavy, they work but require a ton of pedal effort. I assume the booster is disconnected, based on the braking effort. Steering is nice, but this thing sure is slow, makes some good engine noises but definitely needs a 2 litre to wake things up.

Top
I got the used top (Thanks Jim) and will get the panel painted and the top installed. Meanwhile, been nice to drive around since it is back to warm for the next two days here in Maryland. I now have all the small parts to put it back together properly.

So before I go tearing the dash out, is there a common ground or similar problem or do I need to trace this circuit by circuit?
 
dherr said:
Driving
Brakes seem very heavy, they work but require a ton of pedal effort. I assume the booster is disconnected, based on the braking effort. Steering is nice, but this thing sure is slow, makes some good engine noises but definitely needs a 2 litre to wake things up.
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Remember, the single-carb 1.8 was rated for nearly 120 hp in Europe (and even more in twin-carb versions with more aggressive cams). We got a very detuned version here for emissions reasons (81 hp), but it can be rebuilt for an easy 120-plus horsepower. In my experience, the 2.0-liters have good torque, but the stroke is longer making them less rev-happy.
 
RJ80 said:
Remember, the single-carb 1.8 was rated for nearly 120 hp in Europe (and even more in twin-carb versions with more aggressive cams). We got a very detuned version here for emissions reasons (81 hp), but it can be rebuilt for an easy 120-plus horsepower. In my experience, the 2.0-liters have good torque, but the stroke is longer making them less rev-happy.
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So going down that path for a minute. If I were to pull the 1.8 over the winter and have my machine shop rebuild the bottom end with some euro pistons like these Piston Set - 1756 and 1995cc - 9.8:1 and balance the assembly, and then installed a head from a 2.0 injected engine that has been set up for performance high performance cylinder head and a set of cams such as high performance cams and used the set of dual 40 DCOE carbs I have have on my other car, sounds like I could almost double the power of the stock scorpion and have a high reving engine that would be quite fun.
 
Yes, 81HP to 160HP. Finding the correct sidedraft intake manifold for Lancia tilted engine is the only issue if Monte Hospital doesn't have them. Here is my red Scorpion with the DCOEs on Guy Croft manifold.

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1) You'll need the compact aluminum oil filter housing from a non-AC Fiat that came with it on intake side and the upper alternator bracket (or fab one) to relocate your alternator down where AC compressor was for carbs to clear alternator. Swapping in the alum housing is 13 pounds lighter the the cast iron original.

2) You want to install the high torque compact starter to ditch another 9 pounds and has better wiring connections.

3) When engine is being assembled grind off the auxiliary shaft fuel pump lobe and plug oil hole per Guy Croft manual.

4) Electronic ignition

5) Consider internal thermostat to ditch so many hoses.

6) You'll need an cambox endplate without the air pump drive hole through it when you ditch the detuned Scorpion cams.

7) Air injection plugs (Vicks or AutoRicambi have nice ones)

8) The clearance between vertical shift rod linkage and DCOE air filtration is tight. People have fabricated the vertical rod with notch for clearance. I used stubby velocity stack ram pipes with foam socks without modifying shift linkage.

9) Consider aluminum radiator while you have the coolant out during engine build.

10) While engine removes, clean, check inside and out then weld reinforcement plating to the crossmember.
 

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dherr said:
So going down that path for a minute. If I were to pull the 1.8 over the winter and have my machine shop rebuild the bottom end with some euro pistons like these Piston Set - 1756 and 1995cc - 9.8:1 and balance the assembly, and then installed a head from a 2.0 injected engine that has been set up for performance high performance cylinder head and a set of cams such as high performance cams and used the set of dual 40 DCOE carbs I have have on my other car, sounds like I could almost double the power of the stock scorpion and have a high reving engine that would be quite fun.
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Those are the pistons I used in my rebuild and I'm happy with them. I haven't dyno'd my car yet, hoping to in the coming year.

Is your 2.0 head from a Lancia Beta? It will need to be Beta specific for proper oil flow with the mounting at an angle. Also check to be sure the 2.0 head won't rob some compression -- I seem to recall 1.8 heads on 2.0 blocks raise compression (but I could be thinking of something else). Mr. Prodrive posts some good tips as well.
 
I have two cars and was planning on keeping the red car relatively stock and making the white car more of a performance car, but after driving the red car, I can see that I'll want to build a non-emissions engine for it. I found a beta zagato head that I'll probably have rebuilt for it and with a set of high compression pistons and a balanced bottom end, that should give me what I need. The white car has a set of DCOE's on it with the proper manifold so I have that option if I do another direction with the white car (might fuel inject it) or go V6. But this sounds like a solid plan for my red car after I sort the body and suspension.
 
Red 76 appears to be a stock 1.8 but missing all the emissions equipment, so no air pump, ports are properly plugged up and no cat. Carb is stock but the idle solenoid is unplugged for some reason. I can get the temp gauge to work, so it is just the ground wire is not connected.

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White 77 was built back in the 2000's by Performance Apex, but I don't have the specs on it other than it is a 2.0 and was built with fuel injection. The previous owner could not get the megasquirt working correctly so he converted it to 40 DCOE's. Both cars run but the red 76 has a nice interior and is more ready to drive, so I put it on the road first. I did drive the white 77 a little over the winter but did not get to really drive at speed, but suspect it runs much stronger than my 76.

IMG_4953.jpg
 
Exhaust cam distributor drive on the white car, probably so it wouldn't interfere with the former EFI setup. Your Beta Zagato head should be designed for an exhaust-side, cam end-drive distributor, which is ideal. Does it have an end-drive distributor with it?
 
Previous owners have done a good jo. You got some winners.

Somethings to consider for the red car:

You can ditch the fast idle from the carburetor which includes the push button still present in photo and there maybe an electrovalve with hoses wired to it and those hoses and wiring are trash.

Replace the alternator with a Bosch 65A one with internal voltage regulator to ditch the external regulator and wiring.

The vapor canister is still in pics. There is a network of braided fabric fume and fuel hoses that can go and cap at the top of fuel tank. Problem with them is at this age they leak the fumes and create gas smell.

The white 77. Someone did a lot of work cleaning out all the unnecessary items and wiring.

Consider running the wiring down on the crossmember which hides it better and is shortest route anyway.

Got carbs and engine but seems factory exhaust header so choke point maybe not allowing other mods to perform.

Finding the cover for the engine compartment light won’t be hard but in these days of IPhone “Flashlight On” “Flashlight Off”, could remove altogether and the push button for cleaner look.

If you do Montecarlo bumpers on either, you’ll want to do Montecarlo springs or the Koni coilovers to keep the car from skyrocketing with the reduced weight.
 
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