front pad pitfalls?

Napa list them for $22/each, $18ish else where (but shipping and time count too). Not a big deal. I got them off fine, soaked in PB Blaster for a few hours and beat with a rubber mallet, they're in the Dodge and I'm hoping to sneak off to a local service shop to see if they're turnable or need to be replaced.
This all started because of a rhythmic "clanking". I suspected rattle spring/thin pads, all was fine there, I can SEE the rotor is warped, don't have meter to check but I set one of the caliper shims on a block of wood next the rotor edge and spun it by hand and watched the rotor push the shim out, by eyeball, a 16th", way too much but just eyeballing it.
I'm surprised I didn't feel this in the pedal at all.

Called shop; $11/each to turn, if turnable (if they're warped as bad as I suspect, they ain't turning that out I wouldn't think).
$22 for new. Sure looks like new is the way to go.
BUT
I have to wonder if I'm not chasing a red herring since there was not the usual evidence of rotor warpage that I'm used to (pulse/flutter in the pedal)
I'm going to bring them in and have them verify warpage.
 
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JEFF... DON'T TURN THEM... BUY NEW!

Consider the junk they were originally made of, and the price... You will NOT regret it... New pads and rotors make one hell of a difference.
 
Too late. Shop guy measured and declared them turnable. If for some reason they're not I'll just get new. I'm not very informed but it seems hard to turn out a warp but what do I know. Judging by the condition of the parts I think these were all recently replaced to be honest. Heck I don't know. I just wanted that annoying tick tick tick tick tick gone. No complaints on pedal feel or stopping power or anything else.
 
"Never ask a barber if he thinks you need a haircut..."

Hopefully your man is correct... its just they are thin enough to start with. My prices were usually 15 apiece and new were 16 plus shipping. I was ordering pads and lines anyway... so it was a no brainer.

PLUS... once installed, the car never stopped better, smoother, or faster.
 
Same place sells the parts so I don't think he cares much if he gets $22 for 10 minutes on the machine or $44 for parts, the margin is much better from the machine I suspect.
 
The only worry with with the turned rotors is there is now less mass- less mass, less ability to absorb heat and not warp further. Thin rotors tend to warp more.

Turning removes material, in your case a considerable amount given the amount of runout your were seeing.

Be sure to clean the hub carefully before reinstalling the rotors (emory cloth. Use Anti-Sieze over the face of the hub and .

Part of your runout (the amount the shim moved across the 2x4) could have been the rotor being held up off the face of the hub due to crud under the hat of the rotor and the face of the hub.
 
Done, quick test drive, no noise but it was short. We'll see. Thanks again.

Next day:
More seat time, no noise.
I suspect the warped rotor was just pulsing against the pads causing the noise. All fixed.

Way
 
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