Gearbox leak
- Thread starter pdxgeo
- Start date
jvandyke
True Classic
I can't quite tell by the picture exactly where that is but I've read; speedo cable exit spot can leak, gear shift linkage input spot, drain plug.
I've suspected gearbox leaks before only to realize it was oil leaks getting blown onto the bottom of box and dripping there, my latest one is most likely another cam box gasket leak that runs down the front of the engine, gets into the slipstream and eventually drips from the bottom of the gearbox. I'd advise cleaning it off, dusting everything with some baby powder/talc of some sort, drive, park, check.
I've suspected gearbox leaks before only to realize it was oil leaks getting blown onto the bottom of box and dripping there, my latest one is most likely another cam box gasket leak that runs down the front of the engine, gets into the slipstream and eventually drips from the bottom of the gearbox. I'd advise cleaning it off, dusting everything with some baby powder/talc of some sort, drive, park, check.
Potential leak points can be axle flange seals, input shaft seal, shift shaft seal, speedo drive seal, drain plug, vent (if overfilled). If the vent is blocked, any of the other seals can develop a leak, always good to check. A visual check is your first step.
Jeff Stich
True Classic
After a couple of days sitting this is the puddle of gearbox oil Im losing. What typically causes this seepage?
On my 128 (with a similar leak/puddle), I've narrowed it down to coming from inside the bellhousing area, most likely from a faulty input shaft seal &/or seal-housing gasket. I replaced both of these items before installing this trans specifically to avoid this leak problem, too. :wall:
Got a new seal & gasket on my list of "next parts to order", for now I just put a drip-tray in the driveway with a bit of kitty litter to handle the oil leak.
Jeff Stich
True Classic
If they don't have it on hand, they can usually get (order) it for you within a few days. My local Napa has just enough to fit on the shelf (3-4 1-gallon jugs), then doesn't reorder until there's ~1 jug left. If someone else buys that 1, I'm SOL if I arrive afterwards needing 1 (until they get more stock). So last time I was there, I bought 2. :grin:
NAPA 80w90 GL-1, NAPA part number 65201:
http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/C...-Gear-Oil-80w90-1-GAL/_/R-FHQ65201_0410679149
Best bet is to call your local Napa first to see if it's in stock. If not, ask them to order some for you then. Don't let them be lazy & tell you it's NLA - it's a NAPA product available nationwide.
:hmm: I wouldn't mix, might not be compatible (might be EP rated?).
jvandyke
True Classic
it was on the shelf at a NAPA by me too, though the guy was surprised it was there and didn't know what it was, one of the old guys said something about not having seen or sold that stuff in years.
I still think you're better off running Redline MTL though (it is about 15X the price though!! and if you have a leak I'd fix it first, don't want to let that liquid gold spill on the ground!!!)
I still think you're better off running Redline MTL though (it is about 15X the price though!! and if you have a leak I'd fix it first, don't want to let that liquid gold spill on the ground!!!)
mg:
jvandyke
True Classic
with GL1 and cold weather, after shifting in to reverse I would have to apply throttle to get moving and I didn't need brakes the first few miles, that's how stiff everything was, it warmed up and was alright in a few miles but yes, that stuff is (IMHO) old school and there are MUCH better solutions these days, though expensive, Redline is makes for so much better shifting and such, even I, Captain TightA$#$ recommend the $60 or so it costs.