Has Anyone Done "Alternator Identity Reassignment Surgery"?

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Dan Sarandrea (Phila)

Waitin' On Parts...
By "alternator identity reassignment surgery" I mean has anyone removed all of the internals of a late model Bosch alternator originally configured for installation in an A/C car, and grafted them into an alternator body that was originally configured for installation in a non-A/C car?

Are the internals similar enough so that the guts from the A/C unit will drop right into the non-A/C shell?

The electrical connections are the same for both non-A/C and A/C alts, although the amp rating is 5amps higher for the A/C version. Other than the buzz-saw external fan on the A/C unit, is the only difference in the positioning and shape of the single point mounting ear? If so, could it be as simple as swapping front sections?
 
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Interesting question. I have both types of alts but have never compared them side by side close enough to say. Off hand I would have guessed that they are not the same overall size, as in the cases have different outside dimensions, but maybe not?

Unless you happen to have a good AC donor to swap the guts from, would it be better to take the non-AC one to a rebuilders shop and have them rewind it for more output? They should be able to make it generate about as much amperage as you could ever want. 5 amps doesn't sound like a lot of gain.

From vague memory when removing both styles, I think there are more physical differences between the cases than just the one mounting ear. But honestly I don't recall for sure.

See if you can find a listing of the repair parts for both types of alts, by part number. Things like the bearings, armature, etc. If they are the same then things might swap over.
 
Dan Sarandrea (Phila) said:
By "alternator identity reassignment surgery" I mean has anyone removed all of the internals of a late model Bosch alternator originally configured for installation in an A/C car, and grafted them into an alternator body that was originally configured for installation in a non-A/C car?

Are the internals similar enough so that the guts from the A/C unit will drop right into the non-A/C shell?

The electrical connections are the same for both non-A/C and A/C alts, although the amp rating is 5amps higher for the A/C version. Other than the buzz-saw external fan on the A/C unit, is the only difference in the positioning and shape of the single point mounting ear? If so, could it be as simple as swapping front sections?
Click to expand...

Why YES! I've done exactly that. The A/C alternators have 75A output vs 65A outputs for the non-A/C alternator. So I pulled the guts out of the A/C alternator and installed the into the non-A/C housing. I want MORE amps. As you noted, the A/C housing differs from where the pivot bolt is. The good news is that it's a clean swap. Super easy to do.

1630179246867.png


Even put in fresh new bolts with Torx heads instead of flat (flats are EVIL)

1630179313126.png


I couldn't find non flat heads for the long bolts, so I had to use the old ones:

1630179360139.png


1630179391200.png
 
SuperTopo said:
Why YES! I've done exactly that. The A/C alternators have 75A output vs 65A outputs for the non-A/C alternator. So I pulled the guts out of the A/C alternator and installed the into the non-A/C housing. I want MORE amps. As you noted, the A/C housing differs from where the pivot bolt is. The good news is that it's a clean swap. Super easy to do.

View attachment 51313

Even put in fresh new bolts with Torx heads instead of flat (flats are EVIL)

View attachment 51314

I couldn't find non flat heads for the long bolts, so I had to use the old ones:

View attachment 51315

View attachment 51316
Click to expand...
Very cool, excellent work. Glad to hear they are the same. ;)
 
SuperTopo said:
Why YES! I've done exactly that. The A/C alternators have 75A output vs 65A outputs for the non-A/C alternator. So I pulled the guts out of the A/C alternator and installed the into the non-A/C housing. I want MORE amps. As you noted, the A/C housing differs from where the pivot bolt is. The good news is that it's a clean swap. Super easy to do.

View attachment 51313

Even put in fresh new bolts with Torx heads instead of flat (flats are EVIL)

View attachment 51314

I couldn't find non flat heads for the long bolts, so I had to use the old ones:

View attachment 51315

View attachment 51316
Click to expand...

Hey Mr. Super, thank you muchly for the info!

I took Dr. Jeff's advice and looked in the factory parts manual for similarities between the two later Bosch alts, and did note that the front and rear bearings are identical part numbers for non-A/C and A/C alts, which told me that at least the rotor shaft diameters are the same and the bearing bores cast into the cases are the same, but left unanswered whether the other stuff was interchangeable. Your report and photos put those questions to rest.

One more question, is the only difference between non-A/C and A/C position of the adjusting ear as it relates to the lower double mounting ear? If so, one would think that swapping one for the other would be a simple case of removing the fan(s) and pulley and swapping the front half of the case. Does it look like there might be other differences such as pulley spacing?
 
Dan Sarandrea (Phila) said:
Hey Mr. Super, thank you muchly for the info!

I took Dr. Jeff's advice and looked in the factory parts manual for similarities between the two later Bosch alts, and did note that the front and rear bearings are identical part numbers for non-A/C and A/C alts, which told me that at least the rotor shaft diameters are the same and the bearing bores cast into the cases are the same, but left unanswered whether the other stuff was interchangeable. Your report and photos put those questions to rest.

One more question, is the only difference between non-A/C and A/C position of the adjusting ear as it relates to the lower double mounting ear? If so, one would think that swapping one for the other would be a simple case of removing the fan(s) and pulley and swapping the front half of the case. Does it look like there might be other differences such as pulley spacing?
Click to expand...

You need BOTH the front and the back housings since the pivot ears are shared between the two. You can't just change one half of the housing. That's it.
 
The pics above confirm my initial, dark, sighting of the alternator through bolt nut being 'captive' within the front housing.
Makes it easier to move without too much other than removing the alloy wheel/tyre. Plastic cover has opening to sight this captive nut. Other end accessible after removing end cover from rear of alternator. All this in the process of removing the water pump as ongoing restoration of my 82 X 1/9. My 82 X 1/9 has a Magneti Marelli alternator.

Mike

82 X 1/9 with carburettor
 
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