How do I adjust the lollypop?

With the gearshift in neutral...

...loosen these two bolts:



Then move the rod that comes out of the body until it is centered in the "pipe". Then retighten and try the shifting.

Cheers,

Rob
 
is your car not shifting properly?

Not going into gear?

Mine wasn't when I first got it.

The Haynes manual says it is a two person job. Slacken the fasteners, have someone (who knows how to drive standard) hold the shifter in the middle of neutral and tighten it up.

It worked for me.

M
 
thank you

I will try this for sure, I will let you all know how it comes out. However I can shift, but from first to second, and from third to second it is always crunchy/ grinding really. When I come to almost a stop or stop I then can shift into second with no problems, it grinds when I am moving?
 
I suspect your synchro are worn. Adjusting the linkage is more closely related to having issues with it not going into gear due to misalignment

I think you should try red line MTL ( my phones auto correct keeps putting a space between red and line)

If you have to wait to shift when the rpm of the engine trails off significantly, it is likely because the synchro mesh gears are worn.

I will replace mine when the engine comes out
Until then I will just be a bit more cautious shifting and using this special oil really helps.
 
Red line MTL

BellaMacchina said:
I suspect your synchro are worn. Adjusting the linkage is more closely related to having issues with it not going into gear due to misalignment

I think you should try red line MTL ( my phones auto correct keeps putting a space between red and line)

If you have to wait to shift when the rpm of the engine trails off significantly, it is likely because the synchro mesh gears are worn.

I will replace mine when the engine comes out
Until then I will just be a bit more cautious shifting and using this special oil really helps.
Click to expand...

Can I get this oil almost anywhere? and how the heck do I drain the old oil out and put MTL in? Sorry you can laugh it's okay. Every new problem is a whole new learning curve for me.
 
Go on red line oil website and see who the distributor is near you. The closest one for me was jrp.

You need a large flat container that will fit under the transmission that will hold about 4 quarts or more. A flat surface, put lots of cardboard underneath your car.

When you go to fill, the best thing to use is a transfer pump, I borrowed a big nasty pump from a mechanic friend.

It is very messy. You squish more in until it is pouring out the top fill plug.

I would try that first and I bet it clears up your problems, or helps a lot.

M
 
I take off the left rear wheel for easy access, try to keep the car level if possible, pull the fill plug first (top one, if you're sitting by now exposed gearbox end, where wheel used to be, just rearward of hub and up a bit, get that out, then pull the lower let it drain into something, if you've just driven the car so it's a tad warm it will drain quicker, (inspect backside of plug, magnet will be full of metal "dust" hopefully nothing too chunky, wipe it clean), replace drain plug, pull fill plug, a larger diameter tube, clear plastic (so you can see flow and monitor when it's full), about 1/2" OD so it crams into the fill hole snugly, route tube up into engine bay, funnel, pour in MTL, it will pour easily unlike the gear oil that is super thick when cold, MTL isn't. About 4 quarts will go in there, some overfill a bit, I think I order 5 and use a tad over 4, book says something like 3.5. Make sure the vent is open, very top of 5 speed extension, by wheel hub, little white cap thing, remove grime. Gearbox must breathe or leaks will ensue.
 
As others have said, plus one more tip...

I find it easier to jack up the car high using a floor jack on the center-rear pad, lifting both rear wheels and the rear end high. You can also use the factory jack on the left side. (As always, use a jack stand for security as well.)

Then pull the top and bottom plugs as suggested using a standard flat "oil change" plastic pan you can get almost anywhere for a few bucks.

Once the oil is running out... Pull the jack stand and lower the car to the ground to get it ALL out. (Lift the front end??? Lift the right side???)

Oh... Best price I found for 4 quarts... and I have never been able to install MORE than 3.5 quarts in any 5 speed...

Free Shipping too!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Red-Line-Oi...Parts_Accessories&hash=item5d370b97e2&vxp=mtr

You are gonna LOVE the difference!
 
Okay MTL will be used.

jvandyke said:
I take off the left rear wheel for easy access, try to keep the car level if possible, pull the fill plug first (top one, if you're sitting by now exposed gearbox end, where wheel used to be, just rearward of hub and up a bit, get that out, then pull the lower let it drain into something, if you've just driven the car so it's a tad warm it will drain quicker, (inspect backside of plug, magnet will be full of metal "dust" hopefully nothing too chunky, wipe it clean), replace drain plug, pull fill plug, a larger diameter tube, clear plastic (so you can see flow and monitor when it's full), about 1/2" OD so it crams into the fill hole snugly, route tube up into engine bay, funnel, pour in MTL, it will pour easily unlike the gear oil that is super thick when cold, MTL isn't. About 4 quarts will go in there, some overfill a bit, I think I order 5 and use a tad over 4, book says something like 3.5. Make sure the vent is open, very top of 5 speed extension, by wheel hub, little white cap thing, remove grime. Gearbox must breathe or leaks will ensue.
Click to expand...

I left cardboard under car over night, and it is infact engine oil leaking. Engine oil is used in the transmission? HMMMM :) Could you tell me, is the oil in the engine isolated from the oil in transmission? Other words I'm only dealing with the transmission oil in this case. I will use MTL in transmission, and whatever brand of oil in engine. I guess that's the best way to ask this question.
 
absolutely!

I loved the difference so much I spent the whole day driving my car around.

This car is great in Toronto traffic. It fits perfectly in the right lane where all the cars are parked when the left lane is all loaded up. Makes you start to think of modern cars as round bulbous lumbering sausages.

:excited:
 
Gearbox and engine oil never mix, the engine oil is held back behind the flywheel by a seal, "rear main" (front main is on the other end, behind the belt pulley). Rear main leaks will wet this same area. Pain to fix, wait until you need clutch work as the gearbox has to come out to do it.
you 'can' run engine oil in the gearbox but MTL is infinitely better than anything else, IMHO. There could be engine oil in the box, who knows.
I run Redline MTL in the gearbox and Shell Rotella Diesle 15w-40 in the engine, Castrol GTX 20w-50 is good too,
 
How do you adjust the lollipop?

This man can tell you!

:nana::p:laugh:

I'm sorry. I just had to do it and I am very surprised no one beat me to it.
'specially Papa Tony!

But seriously, keep asking questions and we'll try to help you out.

Cheers,

Rob
 
Last edited:
Did running the Redline MTL help remove the gearbox rattle at idle?

I have Castrol in mine, and with the idle set below 900rpm, you'd think the motor is rattling itself apart, from the awful noise the trans makes. Never noticed it before, because the idle was around 1000rpm...
 
Gear train rattle.....!

jvandyke said:
.....mine (with MTL) still rattles in neutral with clutch engaged, bit annoying but I live with it....
Click to expand...

Yep, my '78 1300/4 speed has the same gear train rattle in neutral - more particularly when the engine/trans is really hot.
I have been advised that it is not a sign of problems - merely a bit of "ageing" of the gears as they idle over on the mainshaft - some X's do it - some don't!
I run Castrol VMX gear oil in the trans - I find this tends to 'deaden' the rattle somewhat!

cheers, Ian - NZ
 
hmmm... I run Redline HD Shockproof in my Volvo - it had the same problem once I switched to a single mass flywheel setup.

APclutch_zps94e7b2a3.jpg


in place of the dual mass originally installed- the dual mass acts as a damper at low load/idle to remove any gear train rattle.

I think the HD gear oil is no good for brass synchro gearboxes - the Volvo trans I have doesn't use them. I'll have to research that since it definitely removes 95% of the rattle.
 
gear train rattle: yep, worse when warm, I actually pulled everything apart convinced it was serious (thought TO bearing was going or something) ended up everything was fine. Just have to live with it. I just don't spend much time with the car idling in neutral. Turning up the stereo works too.
 
Thanks for the site

Black-Tooth said:
I find it easier to jack up the car high using a floor jack on the center-rear pad, lifting both rear wheels and the rear end high. You can also use the factory jack on the left side. (As always, use a jack stand for security as well.)

Then pull the top and bottom plugs as suggested using a standard flat "oil change" plastic pan you can get almost anywhere for a few bucks.

Once the oil is running out... Pull the jack stand and lower the car to the ground to get it ALL out. (Lift the front end??? Lift the right side???)

Oh... Best price I found for 4 quarts... and I have never been able to install MORE than 3.5 quarts in any 5 speed...

Free Shipping too!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Red-Line-Oi...Parts_Accessories&hash=item5d370b97e2&vxp=mtr

You are gonna LOVE the difference!
Click to expand...

I will just order from this site. Maybe this will solve my notchy shifting.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top