Dr.Jeff
True Classic
I prefer that type of coilover, with two sets of threaded adjustments on the housing; one for the spring and a second for the lower strut mount to the car. It allows for individual height and spring adjustments as @jimmyx says. However keep in mind the height adjustment (the lower mount threaded one) is limited to how much clearance there is below the struts, until it hits the rest of the suspension/drivetrain. On the X that is pretty limited (I think about an inch if I recall off hand), so you likely will end up having to adjust the spring height as well if you want a LOW ride height - especially at the front.On the D2s and the Ksports (don't think this applies to GAZ) the damper travel and spring height remain constant. The vehicle height adjustment is handled by the threaded lower mounts and not by compressing the spring. It has the effect of shortening the strut housing without actually shortening or limiting travel. The distributor for Ksport in the US is not up for altering the supplied spring rates claiming that the valving is matched to the springs, so custom matching of components at Ksport looks to be a dead end.
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Also remember that as the spring lower perch is dropped (as when lowering the ride height that way), you are still reducing the travel regardless of the length of the spring (respectively). So you can still end up with so little travel that it can bottom out.
I would think the double adjustability of the dampeners could allow for compensation with a different spring rate (to a degree), so it surprises me that a coilover maker would not allow you to choose another spring rate (within reason). However you can always buy aftermarket springs in ANY rate and length to fit ANY coilover, and make them what you want.
The noted "modifications" for the top mounts may apply to other coilovers as well. The X's top mounts are rather unusual and reflect the design needs of the front suspension. Most coilover makers get around it by using a "solid" (monoball) top mount, as with the adjustable camber plates on many. That makes for a much harsher ride quality, particularly in terms of transmitting road noise, vibration, harmonics, etc. Those modifications might(?) have been done to alleviate this for a road only application - by adding the stock rubber top mount back into it? Otherwise I'm not sure why they needed to do this as opposed to say making new mounting holes in the strut tower to bolt more generic 'solid' top plate mounts?