I bit, I bought one. Wow

Congrats! I was going to look at that car tomorrow.

Glad it went to a new owner, with three Fiats already I really didn't need another. Or, my wife doesn't think I need another.

Some work ahead of you, but for 800 bucks you shouldn't feel too bad about it.

Looking forward to seeing it, please join our local FLU chapter we have a few events coming up. Even if your car isn't ready to roll, we would love to have you participate and we are willing to assist with repairs.

Welcome and good luck.
 
Thanks Karl.
I hope I did the right thing. I really felt like I had to either pull the trigger or someone else would. He really want to get rid of it and I'm pretty sure I found his bottom dollar. Nice enough guy but man did he have a horde of weird things. Wow. He told me had a lot of action and was supposed to return a bunch of calls and email but he could have been blow'n smoke up my butt too.
I'm so tempted to try and turn it over but I suppose I should do some preliminary stuff first....what I don't know. Oil down the cylinders? It was running last year so it hasn't been decades......are you supposed to prime the oil pumps on these things? man I feel ignorant.....starting over. I know A Series MG engines a bit, OPEL s. Cluesless on "modern" FIat stuff.
 
Hey J...

(I mean... Hey you idiot...)

HA!

You did good...

There is gonna be a bunch of surprizes when ya go to fix the rust issues... as it appears it was Bondo-ed and not NEUTRALIZED...

None of it looks LIFE THREATENING... but you will need to step up to the plate with some body work skills or pay a bunch for the PROPER repairs.

As for the engine... do soak the cylinders with WD40 into the spark plug holes... then turn the engine over by hand! This can also be done by pulling the plugs, putting it in 4th, and then pushing the car forward.

Then squirt some oil in there... and best to change out the old oil and filter... run some CHEAP oil as it will be discarded after a bit... I'd try a light weight also. Then with a battery, crank the engine over, still with no plugs, ensuring it spins freely and no stange noises.

Install a fresh set of plugs, prime the intake with some fuel or ether, and try and light her off.

I did this with mine after 7 years of sitting... and its still running after 168K.

Let us know what happens!
 
Congrats j

Be careful, it is an addiction. You will probably by 2 or 3 more Xs now that you bought the first.
 
Congrats!

Charge the battery. Pull the plugs and see if you can rotate the engine by hand. If so, disable the injection and ignition temporarily and crank it over until the oil light goes out. Then reinstall the plugs, and try to start it. Fresh gas is a good idea.

My approach has always been to see what works, then fix stuff if needed. Don't start replacing parts until you know where you're starting from. :thumbsup:
 
Hah

Those double wiper blades always make me laugh. Cool car though dude, are you gonna stick with that gold color when you fix it up? I would. Congrats!!! :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:
 
Congrats. Welcome to the fraternity/sorority...

...when you do get the engine running, check every fuel injection hose for leaking. They deteriorate just sitting there and you don't want to have a BBQ.

Regards,
 
Congrats...

You will find most or all of the resources, goodwill, help, and everything else you need for the car. I admire your compulsion. You will find that your compulsiveness is shared by many on this forum and we seem to be all the better for it. Welcome, and fire away with questions, there are very many knowledgeable owners here.
 
willrace4beer said:
...when you do get the engine running, check every fuel injection hose for leaking. They deteriorate just sitting there and you don't want to have a BBQ.

Regards,
Click to expand...

I will add - don't be surprised if you see them weep right away once the car starts. They may stop after a short while once all of the fuel lines etc are pressurized again but be prepared to replace them at first sign of leakage. Midwest-Bayless sells a cool braided line replacement kit for all of the fuel lines including the lines from the fuel rail to the injectors. Its well worth it and will look nice :)
http://marketplaceadvisor.channelad...l.aspx?sid=1&sfid=208227&c=193025&i=250929147

Good to have you and so cool you got an X!
 
Thanks for all the tips guys, I started on new thread about today's adventures and just happened to stumble back on this one, thankfully I ended up doing most of what was in this thread. I think the starter is toast. I'm going to try to pull it tomorrow. Yes, the rust is a bummer but after spending quality time under the car today, I'm glad to see it's solid where it really counts. Now I just hope there isn't a major nasty engine issue. It turns over so that's a good sign. I found receipts in the junk box from collision repair in '89 I think it was. Thus the respray.
BTW how do you "disable" the fuel supply and "prime" it when ready for fire? This is my first foray into FI!!! All toys thus far have been OLD.
 
BTW how do you "disable" the fuel supply and "prime" it when ready for fire?
Click to expand...

To disable, you could just pull the plug on the fuel pump.

There is a safety cut-off for the fuel pump that will only allow it to run as long as there is air flow to the engine (this is bypassed during starting). The air flow meter is essentially a spring loaded flap pushed open by the air flow, and the fuel pump interlock switch is connected to this flap; Flap closed, fuel pump turned off. So, to prime the fuel system you turn on the ignition, then gently push the flap open. This will turn on the pump and fuel pressure will build up. When proper pressure is reached, the fuel pressure regulator will open up and fuel will cycle back to the tank.

If you have not opened up the fuel system, there might not be a need to prime it.
 
Air flow sensor,,

It's located in the engine compartment just above and behind the gas tank. First there's your air filter then a ~2 inch hose and this goes to the sensor, and is a unit with a flap inside. If the ~2 inch hose is removed you will see this flap and it moves with the amount of air going into the unit and sends the signal to the computer.
 
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