I broke off the radiator bleeder

steve

steve

steve tushup
HI -- it's me again.
I just finished replacing my master and slave clutch cylinders.
Had emptied the coolant and removed the expansion tank to facilitate access to the slave.
Replaced the expansion tank -- fixed the leaky hose at the bottom.
Refilled with coolant and attempted to "bleed" the radiator.
I tightened the bleed screw but it continued to leak.
I removed the bleed screw completely and with the aid of a mirror looked into the hole and discovered a broken washer between the end of the bleeder screw and the bleeder fitting.
I replaced the washer, (I wasn't sure if it was made of some special material so I fashioned a piece of gasket and put it between the washer and the bleeder fitting). I re-inserted the bleed screw, topped off the coolant and fired it up, took it for a run. Great!! No leaks!!
That's where I should have stopped!! But noooo not me!! I felt the need to bleed it again to be sure all the air was out.
When I attempted to tighten the bleed screw -- the insert (not the screw) broke off and came outwith the bleed screw attached.
Now the only thing I can do (Ithink ) is remove the radiator and weld (I plan to use cold-weld since I've had some success with cold-weld in the past) the fitting back into place.
Unfortunately I have A/C and the manual says I need to disconnect the condenser.
I found this post in the Forum:

"What I did is go to a real radiator shop and ask them to recore my radiator. The tanks are probably OK, and they will solder them on to a new generic core. If you take the radiator out and just drop it off, it's cheaper than if they do the removal and replacement. Removing the A/C condensor does not require disconnection of the A/C hoses."

If this is true, it will save me a lot of effort.
All opinions are greatly appreciated.
 
Is Mike Richmond out there??

I forgot to mention in my post (above) that I quoted Mike's post about not removing the condenser.
 
Steve, once you get the radiator out....

(I have never dealt with the AC condenser on an X.)

The last time that one of those broke off the tank for me, I soldered it back on myself. Not too hard to do with a propane torch if you are handy.

One time previous, I took the radiator to my favorite shop to have the fitting soldered on. He really did not like the brass on brass threads of the fitting to bleed screw, so he fixed me up with a plastic fitting that has an o-ring on it. The handle is sort of a wing nut shape, so I cut a key slot in it so that I could reach through the hole with a tool.

Another thing that I have parts for and have not tried yet is one of the push button bleeders that are available through hot rod parts companies like Jeg's or Summit. They have a 1/8 NPT thread, but I found a gauge adapter that has an M6 X 1.0 male thread to 1/8 NPT female. Next time that I have to break in to my cooling system, I am going to install these parts to evaluate.

Being as your fitting is broken off already, you could conceivably have a brass 1/8 NPT fitting soldered to the radiator tank and mount the push button bleeder directly.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Moroso/710/63765/10002/-1

Ciao,
 
It seems to me from inspection of that area when I removed bumper shocks (on my '87) that you just have to unbolt the condensor from it's mounts, not physically remove it from the vehicle.
 
Supposedly removed as one unit.

The manual says that the condenser and radiator come out as one unit. I hope you are correct. I am draining the cooling system (again!) right now and will remove the grill etc. and look around. If I can remove the radiator without the condenser, that will be great -- mainly because I won't have to purge the A/C system and remove the condenser hoses.
Thanks.
 
sorry for my ignorance

I don't know the abbreviation NPT. I like the idea of a push-button bleeder. I looked at the one you referred me to (Moroso #710-63765). It screws into a female something. Is that what you are referring to as a 1/8 NPT?
I also looked at the other ones on web site you referenced. The Dedenbear #302-BV1 also looks interesting. I tried to see if it had threads on it and screws into something or just gets welded in as a unit, but I couldn't see it very clearly. I guess I'll call them and ask.
Thanks
 
NPT = National Pipe Thread

NPT threads are tapered such that they are (supposedly) self sealing. A 1/8 NPT is 27 threads to the inch and typically used for plumbing and piping installations. The M6 X 1.0mm is a thread diameter of 6mm and has 1.0 threads per mm length or 25.4 threads per inch of length. And straight not tapered. So, they are similar, but not the same thing at all.

Threading one into the other = train wreck

Good luck with your repair.

Ciao,
 
I've got a spare radiator

You're welcome to use it until you get yours fixed. It doesn't have any leaks, and the bleeder is not frozen. Let me know, as I'll be out your way (in Lancaster/possibly Harrisburg) on Friday. PM me or email me if interested.
Dave
 
Mike and Joe were correct -- manual is wrong!

I just removed the radiator without removing the A/C condenser. I'm sure glad I reviewed the Forum info before proceeding. Getting the nuts off of the top of the condenser was b****, but I got them off. Putting them back on will be even more difficult -- I need a longer 10MM wrench. I found a radiator repair shop in Harrisburg -- said he could weld a 1/8 NPT (I know what that is now -- thank you) female into the top of the radiator. Says he will do it in one day. Cost estimate is $50 - $100, but he can't be sure til he sees it. I am going there tomorrow.
Thanks for the loaner offer -- but I think I'm good to go.
I'm having the 1/8 NPT female welded in (decided not to go the cold-weld route) and installing the push-button bleeder.
Hopefully this will solve all my problems and I'll never worry about bleeding the radiator again!
 
Steve,
I have the entire radiator and condensor unit with hoses and fans complete from my totaled 87 Bertone (60k miles...*sniff*) sitting in my basement waiting for just such a moment as this. I'm right around Washington, D.C and if you feel like a drive, we can work something out. I think shipping it would be a nightmare - very heavy.

Jessee
 
I knew it! T'was bound to happen...

Sorry for your trouble Steve... and you were indeed RIGHT to check here first... saved you a bunch of trouble with that condensor also.

I have NEVER touched that purge valve in my car and now its 31 years old... (Hmmmm half my age!) and its never been opened. I just know its essenially ONE PEICE by now and if I tried to spin it... it would proabably break right off... or never reseal again.

There are about 100 other ways to purge the system... I like forcing water through it with a garden hose and a flush tee... and I've always cautioned others that they may encounter the exact same problem you did.

BUT.... now YOU have a brand new valve... HA! Use it often and in good health!
 
thanks for the offer

but I have the radiator in the shop getting a new 1/8" NPT female welded into the radiator. It should be done tomorrow. I should also receive a "push-button" bleeder (with 1/8" NPT threads) in the mail tomorrow. I opted for the Moroso #63765 from www.jegs.com ($12.99 plus s/h).
I figured I would do it right and also ordered new radiator hoses from Matt. I got some more coolant and I'm ready to go.
Thanks again for the offer.
 
On Pipe Theads..

They are not my favorite if there is an alternative. While there are millions upon , millions of NPT (tapered pipe threads) in service world wide.. typically problem free. The tapered threads which uses a interference fit to achieve a seal imparts a lot of stress on all parts involved. This can require a significant amount of torque applied to the fittings in question to get them to seal..

Keep this in mind when the new "press to bleed" fitting is being installed on the re-built radiator.. or the newly soldered fitting could be cracked off or damage the radiator... again. Basically, try to support the NPT boss on the radiator while the NPT fitting is being installed.

Hint, Teflon sealing paste work better and easier to apply then Teflon sealing tape.
 
thanks Bernice

I put the push-button bleeder on the radiator prior to re-installing it. The new fitting has a hex-top so I was able to get a wrench on it while tightening with another wrench. I used teflon tape and got it very tight without stressing the new weld.
I have not yet tested everything out since I am awaiting new hoses from Matt.
Will keep you all posted.
 
Perfect.. all should go well and the leaks gone.

The radiator shop should have pressured tested the rebuild before delivering it back to you. If it leaks.. they get to fix it again..

Do a flush on the cooling system while the radiator is out if this was not already done.

As for coolant, my current fave is G05 30% to 70% water (distilled) with one bottle of water wetter (the weather does not get very cold here and the higher percentage of water to coolant does a better job at transferring heat.. this does not apply to place that get cold enough to snow and ice over).

And, double hose clamps are not a bad idea.

steve said:
I put the push-button bleeder on the radiator prior to re-installing it. The new fitting has a hex-top so I was able to get a wrench on it while tightening with another wrench. I used teflon tape and got it very tight without stressing the new weld.
I have not yet tested everything out since I am awaiting new hoses from Matt.
Will keep you all posted.
Click to expand...
 
not done yet

I am awaiting hose(s) from Matt -- actually I received them but one of them is not the correct hose. Hopefully he'll send the correct one rapidly. I tried calling on Matt on Saturday (upon their delivery) but no one was there. I'll be calling tomorrow.
Only then will I be able to see if all worked out well. The radiator was indeed pressure tested by the repair shop. I normally use plain old Prestone anti-freeze in a 50/50 mix since it does get cold here.
I haven't changed it for about nine years since I didn't put 8,000 miles on the car in that time, and she lives in a heated garage.
The past twelve months have been very -- uhhh --"interesting". I never planned to be an auto mechanic. But in the past twelve months I changed the alternator, starter, completed the BWM (along with the ground mods), put in a clutch master and slave, and damaged/repaired the radiator.
This is my fourth X1/9. I had a '76 in 1980, an '80 from 1981 thru '88 (got 125K miles on that one), an '86 from 1988 thru 1995 (totaled that one with 95K miles on her, and then found a brand new '88 in 1995 sitting in a showroom. I've had her ever since. I put 40K miles on her in two years. Then I retired and she semi-retired. I done very little to her since replacing the head gasket in 2001. I hope she behaves after this go-round.
Thanx to all who provided their help and guidance thru this whole ordeal.
Steve
 
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