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I get one problem solved and another pops up. -> Clutch hydraulics

Discussion in 'Workshop Forum' started by HazN, Nov 14, 2017.

  1. HazN

    HazN True Classic

    What are the symptoms of a failing clutch master? Sometimes it works fine, sometimes spongy, and sometimes sticks to the floor. No leakage of fluid at the slave.
  2. TonyK

    TonyK True Classic

    Grimsby Ont Canada
    All of the above. The seals are going bad in the Master. I would change it along with the slave if it hasn't been changed recently. Change all of the fluid as well.


    Grimsby Ontario Canada.
  3. Bjwhite

    Bjwhite True Classic

    Seattle, WA
    Hydrolics huh? But yeah I agree with Tony.
    My clutch seems abrupt---I plan to refresh all of the hydraulics later this winter or when I do some major work to the car soon.
  4. HazN

    HazN True Classic

    I think I have two years on the slave. The master is original. Yes, I will totally drain the system. Dripping fluid is so gauche. Any helpful hints on the project?

  5. mkmini

    mkmini True Classic

    Wear closed type glasses when working with brake fluids or any other harmful chemicals. I have got once paint stripper in the eye, it wasn't fun.
    Before taking master cylinder off, can take out fluid from container with syringe.
  6. Henway

    Henway True Classic

    San Diego, CA, USA
    Take two Alleve before you start working upside-down with your head in the footwell, and it may help to pull out the driver's seat. Only use crow-foot (also know as flare nut) open-ended wrenches so you don't strip the nuts. Get the angle of the tube at EXACTLY perpendicular before you hand-tighten the nuts, then use the wrench after you're sure they're not cross-threaded.
  7. lookforjoe

    lookforjoe True Classic

    Pretty sure there are several "how to" threads with pics. Just plan on dropping the entire pedal box assy. from the get go. Drop the steering column (leave Ujoint coupler connected), lay over by center tunnel. Trying to cut corners will only result in major headaches. Do both masters since you have to take it all out anyway. If no one posts a link to a thread with pics, I do have some pics of when I did mine.

    I laid plastic tarp out over the floor since no matter how careful you are, some fluid is gonna drip...
    autox19 likes this.
  8. Daniel Forest

    Daniel Forest Daily Driver

    While I'm there, I also choosed to replace all the hoses coming from the brakes and clutch réservoirs. In the end, it's a time consuming job and I spend too many hours with my head under the dash. I hope I won't be doing it again. I'm still in the process because I wasn't happy with the tygone hoses I fitted and I'm replacing them with hoses that will not easily split when bended.
  9. HazN

    HazN True Classic

    If my memory serves, my son and I did this job on his X. I didn't seem too bad. We didn't drop the steering column, drop the pedal box, nor remove the seat. The worst part was connecting the hard line to the unit. The end nut must have been tapped wrong. We swapped out the nut from the original unit and everything was OK.
  10. lookforjoe

    lookforjoe True Classic

    Certainly possible to do just the clutch master VS. just the brake master in situ simply because the bolts are fed through from the right to left side...


    Safer to also change the feed hose also, if you go ahead.
  11. JBStories

    JBStories Daily Driver

    Yes - I recommend replacing all of it when you crack open the hydraulic system. I did this over the summer because of a leak in the brake MC, as well as a cracked brake reservoir. New flex hydraulic hoses all the way to the reservoirs plus 2 new masters and a slave will give you peace of mind. It's easy to mess up the heads on these fittings so use PB blaster and be very careful. If I was better with hard line tubing and could have found replacements I would have done that but reused them.

    Others already commented it's a pain to drop the whole box. Beyond that, bleeding the system is notoriously time consuming and frustrating. A combination of power bleeding, reverse bleeding, vacuum bleeding, and pedal pumping will eventually get you to a firm pedal. Make note of the adjustment screw position, distances, and clearances on the clutch slave so you have a good reference putting it back together. It takes a surprisingly small amount of movement to engage the clutch.

    BTW, I'm a fan of this type of reverse bleeder...
  12. ianlawson

    ianlawson ian - NZ

    Man oh man! I wish I had been aware that type of reverse bleeder was available when I replaced the brake and clutch master cyls on my '78 X earlier this year.
    I eventually had success bleeding the clutch system by using an ordinary pump-type oil can to reverse bleed the system (advised by another X-head from this GREAT forum!) In fact, it worked quite rapidly once I had ensured that the hydraulic line up to the master cyl was full with fluid. I had a friend up in the car pumping the clutch pedal, while I was down at the slave cyl end pumping fluid UP through the open bleeder. It took some time to get the hydraulic line full of fluid, but once that was achieved, 2-3 minutes of bleeding and ........woohoo, fully bled clutch!

    cheers, IanL - NZ
  13. HazN

    HazN True Classic

    New master cylinder is slated to arrive Tuesday. I will keep you advised.

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