I want to turn an AC 87 X1/9 into a non AC controls and heater box

Discussion in 'FS&W Forum' started by toddr124, Jan 7, 2019.

  1. toddr124

    toddr124 Hagerstown, MD

    Location:
    Hagerstown, MD
    I have the controls and cover for a non AC X1/9 but I need to change everything under the dash I have been told. Therefore I need:

    A heat box the holds the heater core.
    A heater core with no leaks (yes I am picky)
    The heater core valve that stops and start the water (again a working one)
    The cables that control everything.

    A couple of questions:
    Is the blower motor the same for ac and nonAC? I need a blower motor too (see below).
    I have the defroster flap and I have changed the side vents to fresh air, anything else needed.

    Thanks for your help.
     
    Last edited: Jan 7, 2019
    Brayden_connolly likes this.
  2. Mark

    Mark FIATFREAK

    I did this to my ‘85 many moons ago. I replaced the entire heater box with an early one; including the blower.
    AC:
    156BB547-5499-431A-80B4-C1FEA32BB18D.jpeg

    Non AC:
    D9BD62D0-D9F2-485B-A1C6-055CB81D4060.jpeg

    The ducting to the defroster and center vents is different too.
     
    Last edited: Jan 7, 2019
  3. kmead

    kmead Insufferable dum bass

    Location:
    Michigan
    Why replace? Remove the actuators and convert to wire actuation. Clearly some work but doable, you even get recirculating for free with vent door close actuation.

    Keep the multispeed fan. You only lose out on the fresh air vents on the outside corners.
     
  4. Dr.Jeff

    Dr.Jeff True Classic

    Location:
    Sin City
    There are a lot of differences between them. So Karl's suggestion seems like a much better approach than replacing everything; remove the vacuum actuators and make something that will allow the cables to replace them. I don't know exactly what would be required to do that last part. But I'd like to keep my AC, yet get rid of the vacuum actuators (they tend to leak air, which ultimately is a vacuum leak to the engine). So at some point I'll be looking into doing the same conversion to manual cables. Hopefully you figure it out so I can copy you. :D
     
  5. carl

    carl True Classic

    Location:
    Virginia
    Todd wants to do what I did on my Bertone and will also do on the flared X. Get rid of that damn AC and all the complexity and non-available parts that go with it. By far the simplest way to do that is with a heater assembly from a non-AC car. It operates just like and looks just like the 124 spider heater which is why I wonder how similar they are.
     
  6. ArtBasement

    ArtBasement Erwin Timmers

    Location:
    DC
    I'm paying attention here, since I have wanted to do the same. My biggest problem is that the vacuum system doesn't properly open/close the main air intake. Probably rust in the hinge and poor vacuum
     
  7. Dr.Jeff

    Dr.Jeff True Classic

    Location:
    Sin City
    Or it might be due to vacuum leaks? I've found the control buttons, actuators, hoses, fittings, reservoir bottle, etc can all leak. Depending on the amount of available vacuum from the manifold, and the number and size of leaks, there might not be enough "pull" getting to the end of the line. Try connecting a hand held vacuum source (like a "MightyVac") directly to the actuator and see if: 1) it pulls the flapper all the way open, and 2) it holds the vacuum. Same test for each component in the system may help determine the issue.
     
  8. carl

    carl True Classic

    Location:
    Virginia
    Also, the flap door hinges can get really rusty and seize. I had to throw one of mine away as it could not be loosened up.
     
  9. toddr124

    toddr124 Hagerstown, MD

    Location:
    Hagerstown, MD
    I have bought most of the parts now, Thanks Mike. On Mike's suggestion I did buy a new heater control valve and gaskets from a vendor. All the parts will be here next week. I think I am getting sick the middle of next week and won't be able to go to work.
     
  10. Maxmod

    Maxmod Lachlan (aus)

    Location:
    Australia
    Todd,

    Are you intending on pulling the wiring out as well?

    I’d be very keen on the AC part of your wiring loom, I’m currently converting a car to run AC, I’ve got pretty much everything now. I’m running a late model wiring loom but don’t have the AC component of it. I did just purchase the Relay block from Midwest for it but if you had the wiring for it all that would be so much easier.

    I am of course assuming that Fiat in their infinite wisdom I.E desire to save money made the AC part of the loom seperate to the main loom or seperate enough one could remove it.
     
  11. toddr124

    toddr124 Hagerstown, MD

    Location:
    Hagerstown, MD
    I am way to lazy to pull any wiring, sorry. Unlike Carl, saving 6 ounces means nothing to me.
     
  12. Maxmod

    Maxmod Lachlan (aus)

    Location:
    Australia
    Bummer, that's alright though I understand I probably couldn't be bothered either. You can name your price though if you want to have a look at it while your behind there.

    Any bits you have that you've taken out let me know what you've got and I might buy them as spares from you.
     
  13. Dr.Jeff

    Dr.Jeff True Classic

    Location:
    Sin City
    Maxmod, on my '79 with factory AC, some of the AC harness is incorporated in with the other harnesses. And other owners with non AC cars have noted some AC harness was in their car from the factory. So it isn't so easy to pull.

    Furthermore, you really don't want a good portion of the factory AC harness. The original AC system used a very odd set of pressure and temp sensors that are located in bizarre positions within the system. Makes absolutely no sense and unlike any other car I've ever seen. When you build a new AC system into your car, you will want to use a modern type setup with a trinary switch (most likely located on the receiver/dryer). So the harness will need to be made to fit these changes.

    Same for the hoses. When you eliminate all of those weird switches and sensors that are spliced inline of the factory hoses, all new hoses will need to be custom made. Plus you never want to use used hoses anyway. A modern parallel flow condenser is another definite must.
     

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