ID my $50 field find

[Heyhillsy]

With so many resources available, I apologize for this basic identification question, but: My $50 field find came with zero documentation. Based on checking the serial number (0092685) against the list here on Xweb and that it has the square-ish, five-speed shifter and the cam wheel is marked “1500,” I’m guessing it’s a ‘78 with the 1500 and a five-speed. Sound right?

 

[dllubin]

With so many resources available, I apologize for this basic identification question, but: My $50 field find came with zero documentation. Based on checking the serial number (0092685) against the list here on Xweb and that it has the square-ish, five-speed shifter and the cam wheel is marked “1500,” I’m guessing it’s a ‘78 with the 1500 and a five-speed. Sound right?

You should see some casting marks with the engine type on the block. The 1500s start with "138.xxxx..". If it was a 1300, it would be "128.xxxx..".

 

[kmead]

Late 1300s could also be 138s as well. It is likely it is indeed a 1500 out of a 79 or 80.

What type of axles does this car have? Does it look like bolted on CVs at both ends of the axles? If yes then it is a five speed. If you can’t see any bolts at the axle rubber boots, it is a 4 speed.

 

[Heyhillsy]

Yes bolted axles on both ends. I’ll check the block for numbers tomorrow. Thank you!

 

[subasurf]

A 1500 5 speed for $50? What an absolute score.

 

[Heyhillsy]

Yay, looks like chances are it is a 1500!

 

[Heyhillsy]

A 1500 5 speed for $50? What an absolute score.

Yes, well, it is in rough shape and no title, sooo, but I’m OK with all of that

 

[kmead]

Yay, looks like chances are it is a 1500! View attachment 82864

The engine code you have is indeed a 1500. A 138.1 would have been a 1301.

This means all your rear suspension is 1500 for parts in the future.

 

[Heyhillsy]

The engine code you have is indeed a 1500. A 138.1 would have been a 1301.

This means all your rear suspension is 1500 for parts in the future.

Thanks for adding that bit of implication.

 

[kmead]

Thanks for adding that bit of implication.

Sorry, for being Captain Obvious. The rear suspension parts in question would be the hub and bearing. The strut could be either early or late depending on what they chose to change. Lower arm on the left side likely was ‘adjusted’ to allow clearance for the 5 speed. The rest remains the same.

 

[Heyhillsy]

Ah-hah, thanks.

 

[Heyhillsy]

OK, next question, does the distributor cap generally get in the way of removing this plug?

 

[Alex(Tenerife)]

You can change the angle here by undoing the securing bolt and restraining plate of the distributor (leave the cap on, this is important) it is also important not to twist or turn the distributor but to pull it out completely. Then you can re-insert it at a different position. I like an about 2 o'clock position. But then again I haven't had a mechanical fuel pump for a very long time. So just find an angle that works with the wiring and hoses that you have.
After doing this, double check the timing as its easy to move it doing this.

 

[kmead]

next question, does the distributor cap generally get in the way of removing this plug?

It is easier if you remove the cover from the spare tire well side.

No, it wants to be pointing more to the drivers side as shown here.

With everything at TDC, with the cap off, take out the distributor. Point the rotor towards the screw on the side of the distributor body. Insert the distributor so it looks roughly like this

 

[Heyhillsy]

Thanks, that makes much more sense. There are a few things on this car that just seem a bit out of place. And thanks to all for the patience. My previous project attempt came without an engine at all and it’s been decades since I’ve had a 128sl and then a 124 spider in the garage.