Ignition timing 76 X19

D

driveability

Low Mileage
I can't remember what the spec was. I hope someone can help me out.
76 X19, Ca.
Thanks guys heading down to the smog station tomorrow..... :help:
:shock2:
 
IIRC it was 0 degrees on Federal cars. Hard to see where it'd be different on a CA car-- the only cars I remember being timed ATDC were British.

FWIW, I ran 10 degrees of static advance in my '76, with the vacuum retard disconnected and no converter. Ran premium fuel though-- dunno how well that'd work on regular. Just an FYI, for after the smog test... ;-)

///Mike
 
Start with this link

http://www.fiatplus.com/members/tech698.htm - Chris Obert who wrote it hangs out here, and if he has anything to add, listen to him not me.

Assuming your distributor comes with a vacuum capsule (it should, but I recall you saying above that you don't have one) the timing should be 10 degrees BTDC with the vacuum disconnected, 0 BTDC with it connected. It's a vacuum retard.
 
:) California cars don't have vacuum advance in 76, I'm not remembering a TDC base timing. I was thinking 5 degrees or 10 degrees. Problem is the tech might be able to actually see it !:shock2: Its not easy to see on my car. I remember the limit being +/- 2 degrees is all California allows. Maybe we can get more input to check our ideas. :nod:
 
Haynes

is a bit confusing on this point. Under "Distributor" it says static advance = 10°, a bit further down under "Ignition timing" it says pre-1976 Euro spec: 10° static or idling. 1976 onwards Euro spec: 5° static or idling. USA spec (no years listed, no special CA provision listed): 0° at 850 RPM.
 
driveability said:
I can't remember what the spec was. I hope someone can help me out.
76 X19, Ca.
Thanks guys heading down to the smog station tomorrow..... :help:
:shock2:
Click to expand...

This is an issue that even the state inspectors I have talked with have been unable to fix because the book they insist everyone own has it wrong.

For the state leave the vacuum retard connected, even if it does not work, and set the timing at idle to zero, then adjust the carburetor mixture to drop you into specs. It will run terrible, but should pass the timing part of the test...

I live in a two speed test area and do not have experience with the dyno tests.

When you get home disconnect & plug the hose to the retard, and set the ignition timing to 10 BTDC. Then reattach the hose. After you get it, then adjust the mixture to best slow idle, plus about 1/8 turn in to get a smooth transition. Then set to your comfortable idle speed.

If you want you can check your timing to see where it's at, but it's not anything to worry about as it will go to 10 BTDC as soon as you open a throttle plate. Besides, most of the TVS switches quit functioning years ago... if everything works as new your timing should be zero.

one of the best things you can do is change the oil before you go in for the test. And of course making sure everything is set to specs, including new filters, really helps your chances.
 
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