Issues setting my ignition timing

I checked but no photos. However, it is a really simple job and taking it to a machine shop only for that would be a gross overkill. Just get an M8 x 1.25 tap, a couple of M8 x 1.25 set screws of your choice, and a little pipe joint compound and have at it. Since the manifold is already off, it should only take a few minutes. Having a shop vac to suck out any metal shards that fall in could come in handy if necessary.
Are these the holes that you are referring to? I honestly never noticed that nothing went into those two holes and the gasket has the corresponding holes. Between cylinders 1&2 there's the same hole.
 

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I checked but no photos. However, it is a really simple job and taking it to a machine shop only for that would be a gross overkill. Just get an M8 x 1.25 tap, a couple of M8 x 1.25 set screws of your choice, and a little pipe joint compound and have at it. Since the manifold is already off, it should only take a few minutes. Having a shop vac to suck out any metal shards that fall in could come in handy if necessary.
I would only ask the machine shop since it's there anyway being checked over for cracks and flatness.
 
Are these the holes that you are referring to? I honestly never noticed that nothing went into those two holes and the gasket has the corresponding holes. Between cylinders 1&2 there's the same hole.
The second link I posted has complete pics and shows the tools needed…
 
My dual DCNF Sprint manifold had the water passages built in but had no plans to use them. I tapped the water ports on the head and installed M8x1.25 set screws with RectorSeal to prevent any leaks.

I must have missed the timing set at 39 degrees. For my engine, I never found going past about 34 degrees gained anything. I'm surprised pre-ignition wasn't a problem at 39 degrees under load.
My recollection was wrong, he was running much more timing with the Volvo/Saab systems he was working with. They integrated knock sensors but the system didn’t work properly in terms of retarding or it was incapable of retarding enough.

I think your point around 33° all in is likely the limit of what this motor can take given the head design. 30° is the OE max with the Bosch distributor.


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Are these the holes that you are referring to? I honestly never noticed that nothing went into those two holes and the gasket has the corresponding holes. Between cylinders 1&2 there's the same hole.

Sure looks like #4 intake has coolant going into it....
 
Sure looks like #4 intake has coolant going into it....
It does have coolant puddled, but it could just be from disassembly.

However, if it was leaking coolant under the gasket it would certainly explain #4 being steam scoured if the head shows no cracks or warpage.

If it was just a gasket or torque down failure it would be another example of the simplest things catching us up.
 
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