Leather Interior - Restomod Part II

Dennisrh

True Classic
I had just finished with installing my new AC, sound insulation and stereo system when I ran into a problem (Part I of the Restomod is here http://xwebforums.com/forum/index.php?threads/22951/).
The original door cards would no longer fit properly with the sound insulation between them and the inner door skin. I decided I would make new door cards and reupholster them and the seats as well. The original seats and door cards were not in bad shape so I removed them and put them in storage.

Door Cards
First step was to draw up a template to cut the new door cards with. I used a large piece of cardboard and cut it to the right size and shape and then test fitted it on the door. When I was satisfied that the cardboard markups were perfect I then had to make a decision about what to make the new door cards out of. The options I considered were to use a similar compressed fiberboard as the car came with, thin plywood, fiberglass or aluminum. I chose aluminum as I had recently read about a sound insulation project similar to mine where they used aluminum sheeting as an additional sound barrier in the doors. In the other installation they put the aluminum sheeting between the door cards and the sound insulation where mine would be the door cards themselves. I had recently purchased some aluminum sheeting for the sides of my shed in my back yard and found that the scrap I had leftover was enough to make two door cards with. I don't remember how thick the aluminum sheets I used were, but they were thinner than a quarter and you could bend them by hand, so still fairly flexible. I used a pair of sheet metal snips to cut the basic shape and then a grinder and sander to perfect the shape and size.



My first try at an aluminum door card. I didn't end up using this one because I cut the bottom edge too much and it left a gap. Luckily I had more aluminum to try again.
Unfortunately I didn’t take too many pictures, but I will explain the process the best I can. I shaped both aluminum door cards as perfectly as I could. Each door card had a cutout for the door handle, interior light, door lock and speaker and holes for the armrest. I took the door cards to my upholsterer and he drilled the holes for the clamps that hold the door card to the door. He used heavy duty metal spring clamps rather than the original plastic clamps. The metal spring clamps hold better, but require a thin plier like tool to compress them so they can be removed. I had a set of spare door cards that were very warped and we took the door lock plastic guide off of them. This was glued to the aluminum door card and then the leather covers were made. New door padding was stitched to the leather and then the covers were stretched and glued to the new door cards. I had the leather door covers stitched with the exact pattern that the original doors had to keep the original styling even though they were leather and a different color then original.
Here is the door card completed.



The Seats
I had a spare set of seats that were worn and sun bleached pretty badly. I took the spare set of seats to be upholstered rather than the original seats so that I could keep the original seats and door cards just in case I ever want to go back to all original. Not much to say about the seats except that I told the upholsterer to copy the pattern as closely as he could to the original pattern on the seats.
Edit: Almost forgot about the stuff the upholsterer did to refurbish the cushions. The upholsterer removed the bottom cushion and checked the springs. The springs were fine, but they were cutting into the cushion which is why the seats felt a bit worn out. He placed a semi-rigid piece of material on top of the springs so that the springs couldn't cut into the cushion and then put a layer of material, I think it was vinyl, on top of the cushion to make them waterproof before putting the leather cover on.
Here is what he did.









Back panel redone in black leather.


New floor mats to match.

Restomod part III - Suspension, wheel, tires, exterior - http://xwebforums.com/forum/index.php?threads/23538/
 
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Well done...

I must admit it the stark contrast is not my thing but the quality of the work is great.

Now I gotta say this... with all the time and investment here you are staring at what I would consider the next thing to conquer! The cracked dash.

BlueBoy here showed up at BFI with a brand new interior complete with a newly covered vinyl dash. I asked him for the name of his upholstery guy and the prices as well, but so far no answer. There are also a few folks here that tried to do it themselves with what I think with limited success. Henk Martens offers a service in the Netherlands and I'm still waiting to see those when they arrive. Then there is "Just Dashes" here in LA-LA-LAND that do absolutely FANTASTIC work that is BETTER than the factory, but looks like it came from the factory... for a FANTASTIC price as well. I believe they are now asking $1500 bucks!

Keep up the good work!
 
Looks good...

Looks good... but also kind of scary or sinister. Reminds me of this face:
348px-DarthMaul-SWI122.jpg
 
Dash

The original dash that came with this car is perfect. No cracks or scratches and even has a perfect working glove box door.


The dash that is currently in the car is from my 1985 that got wrecked. The reason I am using the old dash is because the new one doesn't have AC ducts to the side vents. If I get the air ducts, I will probably put the original dash back in.

My original inspiration for the color scheme was the Bugatti Veyron. The Veyron interior is pretty awesome although admittedly a little overboard which is how I ussually feel when driving my X :cool:.



2012 Bugatti Veyron interior
 
Me Likey Much, too

Specially the Roll of Duct Tape, "Cup Holder". :shock::mallet:
Been thinking that was the only place for one in my 78, too. :lol:

Seriously! Very Nice Job. :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

Hopefully, I can cure Ruby's motive issues without making too big a mess in here.

 
The orginal interior was probably the burgundy cloth, and you had them replicate the cloth-with-vinyl-trim pattern in leather.

For my personal preference on my 2-tone blue car, I would have considered reversing the pattern on the seats, making the field black and the trim red. Or substituting yellow for red, either as the field color or the trim color. But on a red car like yours, the more red the better:)

It looks like your shop really did a nice job on the cut, fit, and stitch of the project! IMHO what lets down a recovering job on our cars is the fact that there are no sources for replacement seat foams, so we are stuck with old, tired foam that fails to support the covering adequately. On my car I can see the seat fabric forming creases where the tired foam is not giving it adequate support. I think that's what happening to the butt-cheek area of your drivers seat. The shops that I have spoken with do not want to get into trying to create new seat foams. Ask your upholstery shop if they can recommend a product or procedure to shrink that butt panel a bit.
 
That is really beautiful work!I really like the way those came out!

I would have thought the aluminum would be more likely to buzz/vibrate than the card, since it is a rigid, reflective panel, unlike the card which would naturally absorb some vibration/sound, given its porous nature.
 
My upholsterer added some additional foam to try and fix the sagging look which was caused by the tired seat foam. He did a good job of making the seats very firm; however he also lifted the seat a few inches in the process. I had not realized how high my seats really were until I sat in Ed's X 1/9 last weekend. I decided something needed to be done.
So for now I put the original driver’s seat back into my Fiat. The difference between my leather seat and the original was a good 2.5 inches of extra head room. Once I got the leather seat out, I couldn't help myself from taking it apart and figuring out what the heck the upholsterer did to make it so high. I pulled out a nearly 2 inch tall piece of burlap and foam glued together that was placed under the original foam. The biggest problem was that the 2 inch foam wasn't also placed on top of the sides of the seat, so it raised the center but not the sides, turning my bucket seat into flat seats. So that problem is fixed, I tossed the big foam pad and replaced it with a 1/8 inch thick piece of closed cell foam. The closed cell foam is to keep the springs from digging into the original foam. Then I took a look at my original seat covers and saw that they have cloth sewn into them that pull the vinyl into the creases of the seat. So my plan is to get some elastic to sew into the leather covers and pull it through the seat foam the same way the original seats have the cloth. This will hopefully fix the sagging look of the seat cover and give me a firm but low seat in my X 1/9. I’ll post some pics when I finish this new project.
 
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