Well, the PBS mod is a little different in that they make their own ears IIRC - I didn't.. I took the less glamorous approach!
I used a grinder, and cut the heck out of it and an air chisel (I made my slice at the back of the ears). Not pretty. The old strut tube was not reusable in my case.. the PBS book outlines the better approach quite well and you can reuse the original strut tube.
I welded those used ears onto my own tubes from Ground Control, to house some Tokico strut cartridges (non adjustable, but good for the spring rates I had)
On the other hand, if you did get your own coils wound, you can then do the approach I did for ease - I drilled three small holes in the upper and lower perch, used safety wire to hold the spring to the perches, made my own thrust washer (for steering) out of Delrin, and the Delrin thrust washer "snaps" into the upper spring perch. This way, when I raise the car up, everything stays aligned and in place for when I drop the car again. - this is assuming you don't change the location of the ears and you want to lower it. My car sits fairly low, with the rear control arms parallel to the ground - camber is corrected back to OE. I think it looks nice
but the ride is much harsher than OE... that I don't like.
Make sure you keep the late model car (parts at least!), so handy to have the rear strut hardware - heck, even the rear struts are different (two reasons why, one is the mounting ears on the late model are designed to clear the 5spd CV joint, and also the top hardware is different than the original '74 style - assuming that's what you have.
BTW: I hope you get your seat out.. I had the same issue, it was loose change stuck in the track... lots of WD40 (I'd use PB Blaster now, helped a little - but so did a long pair of needle nose vise grips).. also, what I'd use today would be a USB bullet camera (Endoscope), shove it down by the seat track - I bought one on ebay for $30 or so.. so useful! has LED lights and gets into the tightest spots!