Looking for a few late-model non-AC heater control knobs

geekdaddy

X1/9 Learner's Permit...
Just for yucks, I'm following Dan's lead and will modify my levers to include tritium vials so they're always illuminated. It's been WAY too cold outside to do serious work on my X so goofing off with indoor projects.

A few of my levers are cracked/broken from removing them the first time. They still work but are very loose. Mine is an 81 without AC so it uses the stubby "two-sided" variants with squarish-ends. They look like the ones in this post from Jeff (except no wires or drilled-holes in the originals): http://xwebforums.org/showpost.php?p=164163&postcount=1

BTW anyone who wants to remove their levers without breaking them? Make sure it's warm outside or gently warm them to minimize breakage. I use a harbor freight hooked pick to catch them from the rear and gently pry them open off each side of the lever. Using this approach I can remove them without breaking them. You can too ;)

Looking for ~2 lever knobs in good condition please let me know if you have them and what your asking price is. Thanks!
 
C. Obert has them

Use this link to get to the Heater Controls section, then change the model to X1/9 and hit search. You could put "knob" in the search box if you want, but sometimes it is better to see everything on the first pass to get a feel for how things are labeled.


And here is a link to Dan's post just because it is very cool. :)
 
I would take a slightly different approach a second time around as compared to what I did the first time, when it comes to installation.

I originally routed out a slot in the face of each knob, following the molded in grip ridges. I used a ball-end Dremel bit whose diameter was as close to the diameter of the tritium cylinders as I could find. The idea was to create a rounded "ditch" in the plastic that would, by its shape, hold the vials in place to some degree, if I ran the bit at the right depth.

Dremel bit:
http://media.midwayusa.com/productimages/880x660/Primary/760/760824.jpg

The idea was to slide the cylindrical vial thru the cylindrical shaped ditch in the plastic parallel to the face of the knob and then glue it in place.

The end result was not cosmetically as nice as I wanted it, because the ends of the ditch catch your eye when you look at the knobs. I tried filling the ditches in with black Permatex silicone gasket maker, but rather than being pitch black it has some grey in it so it does not hide the ditch as much as I would like it to.

I might try a "do-over" if I can accumulate enough spare knobs. This time, I think I would rout out a ditch only as long as the vial to be inserted, then use clear silicone behind the vial to secure it in place.
 
I had this page open already I was searching earlier today!
http://www.fiatplus.com/1979-88-fan-speed-switch-knob-pr-287043.html
Just don't clean him out 'cuz I need some too!
I'm still thinking of trying to cast my own from a silicone mold taken from an original, then I can play with different materials (maybe find something a bit more flexible and rubbery?) and might even do some clear ones, embed an LED in them then black out areas I don't want lit, would b kinda cool, no? So far I have sticker shock on what they want for materials to cast stuff. I might try a homebrew version first. I could black out the front and sides leaving a lit border, or any combination of cool things.
 
It is true on the '79 and up later cars the knob for the fan switch is stubby while the knobs for the three sliders are longer.

BUT!!

Not sure if it's just a mistake in the pic on Obert's site, but the longer knob on the left is for early cars, not late. The right knob is the shorter one with the squared-off shape used on later cars, which would make it for the fan switch only. It should fit onto the sliders but the fact that the knob "leg" is shorter will limit the side to side travel of the slider levers.

According to my parts manual, for later cars, the part numbers are:
1 each short knob for heater fan switch: 4436335
3 each long knob for heater sliders: 4424007 (or could be 4424097, it's very difficult to distinguish the 0 or 9 on that scan of the parts manual)
 
Jeff: thanks for the link to Obert's site. Looks like he is out of stock?

Dan: Thanks for the tips. Was planning to follow the original approach you used. I ordered 12mm long vials which I think are nearly as long as the knob face if I follow the length of the ridges so I hope they will work well.
 
Yep, out of stock.
I have moved forward in my casting plans. I did a poor man's silicone mold yesterday with halfway decent results. I might try to cast in fiberglass resin yet tonight, not sure that's a good material but I have it. I am planning on getting real silicone mold material soon and doing a proper job. Hopefully I will crank them out soon and will send you some for "testing". I plan on casting in clear but can add black pigment easy enough. Good that Henk has but they are pricey since they break so readily, be nice to be able to make your own no?
 
Digital model

If anyone can locate a pristine example, I would be happy to generate a digital model of it which could be printed at a service. I might be able to cadge a few examples from my model shop to create proof of concepts.

I would need an unsullied example to measure and model from so if anyone runs across a new one let me know. I will return it in the same condition as I would just be measuring the part.

We could then create variations which include a means of embedding other elements such as tiny LEDs or ?

All the best.

Karl
 
KMEAD: I have a long one in excellent condition.
My short one (for the heater motor control) has a broken leg :(

If you won't need it for too long, pls PM me your address and I'll ship it so you can scan or build a 3d model of it. If you could, would be a great starting point to design modifications and accommodations for the sort of lighting that Jeff wants to do.

I can also probably make some test runs in a 3d printer if you'd like.
 
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