Looking for X 1/9 mechanical expert (in their minds or others) in Orange County, Ca.

Dr.Jeff said:
Wow, I hadn't thought about them for decades. Are they even still around? If so then they should be a good resource.

Someone mentioned another well known Fiat specialty repair shop in SoCal (I won't name names). I have been hearing very poor things about that shop for several years now. Besides I've always felt their expertise was with 124's and not x1/9's. Personally I wouldn't recommend them but that's only my view.

Sadly there aren't too many options. I don't recall the names at the moment but there were two Fiat shops up toward the north side - around Pasadena or the valley I think? Although I believe they are no longer in business. Try asking Papa Tony (@Black-Tooth) if he knows if they are still around. I never had any personal experience with either.
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How many FIAT specialty repair shops are there in SoCal? I’ve never heard of one, and I’d like to find a few for my 500 Abarth. But if you have ones which should be avoided, you can send me a PM, if my account has those privileges yet. Thanks.
 
At one time many years ago there were several, including one of the best machine shops you could ever find for Fiat stuff. Sadly he has passed away. And one of the best performance engineering shops, which is also gone (well they exist but not for Fiat stuff). And that was my point, I'm not sure there are any great Fiat specialty repair shops left now?
 
tvmaster said:
Great, thanks. I take it from your list you’ve done some work on these cars, engines, transmissions etc.? If you have a fee/rate can you PM it to me here? Shouldn’t take more than an hour in Costa Mesa if needed, plus your travel time. :)
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i don’t want your money, man. We’re all friends here. I’m glad to help out. Yea, I do all the work on my car, short of needing a machine shop. I’ll PM my phone number.
 
addictedpunk said:
i don’t want your money, man. We’re all friends here. I’m glad to help out. Yea, I do all the work on my car, short of needing a machine shop. I’ll PM my phone number.
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:) I know the last six months have been tough for a lot of people, so I‘d never ask for free favors from anyone I’m reaching out to, but thanks, that’s a really nice gesture. :) I may have negotiated a low enough price that if there are surprises, It won’t hurt as much. But yes, PM away, because you may end up with more offers on your plate then you can handle ;)
 
tvmaster said:
:) I know the last six months have been tough for a lot of people, so I‘d never ask for free favors from anyone I’m reaching out to, but thanks, that’s a really nice gesture. :) I may have negotiated a low enough price that if there are surprises, It won’t hurt as much. But yes, PM away, because you may end up with more offers on your plate then you can handle ;)
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The existence of this forum should figure positively into the sale price of any X, imo. Easily adds $2k+ to the value side of the cost-benefit calculus, and that's if you only plan to do shadetree-type repairs like me. People here are so amazing--willing to offer expertise on the simplest of newbie questions, yet also more than capable of discussing technical performance-mod issues at the very highest level. And all of that in a welcoming, inclusive environment. It really is a special place that offers a feeling of community... Important now more than ever, when material conditions in the U.S. are so overwhelmingly alienating and frustrating.

tl;dr: buy it!!! (Unless it's a total heap. Then buy a different one.)
 
JNewm said:
The existence of this forum should figure positively into the sale price of any X, imo. Easily adds $2k+ to the value side of the cost-benefit calculus, and that's if you only plan to do shadetree-type repairs like me. People here are so amazing--willing to offer expertise on the simplest of newbie questions, yet also more than capable of discussing technical performance-mod issues at the very highest level. And all of that in a welcoming, inclusive environment. It really is a special place that offers a feeling of community... Important now more than ever, when material conditions in the U.S. are so overwhelmingly alienating and frustrating.

tl;dr: buy it!!! (Unless it's a total heap. Then buy a different one.)
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Lol. Thanks. it’s not a total heap. It has a few tiny rust spots, and a couple of bits on the undercarriage that have eaten away. I’m trying to decide if those ones have a solution other than welding in new steel. Control/support arm in the front (still looking here to properly identify the name/what that the piece of the frame is called). Every other problem can be fixed with TLC and $$. I’d like to think we can save it from destruction, fix it up, enjoy it for a few years and then move it on to the next caretaker. These old cars are wonderful, but not for the faint of heart or low on $$. :)
 
avusblue98 said:
I know that Snow's auto repair in Orange used to have several X1/9's in the back. Been a while since I've been by there, but probably a good place to say hi.
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Hey, I called Snow’s, and they still seem to very keen on servicing/repairing X 1/9’s, and may even be a source for used parts. Thanks for the tip. Orange County never fails to amaze me - if you’re looking for something weird and wonderful, it can usually be found here :)
 
tvmaster said:
Lol. Thanks. it’s not a total heap. It has a few tiny rust spots, and a couple of bits on the undercarriage that have eaten away. I’m trying to decide if those ones have a solution other than welding in new steel. Control/support arm in the front (still looking here to properly identify the name/what that the piece of the frame is called). Every other problem can be fixed with TLC and $$. I’d like to think we can save it from destruction, fix it up, enjoy it for a few years and then move it on to the next caretaker. These old cars are wonderful, but not for the faint of heart or low on $$. :)
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RELATIVE to other classic cars, they actually aren't very expensive to own and maintain, especially at a stock level. But like I said before, any classic car will require some continual investment.

And again, as you are now discovering for yourself, the BODY issues and RUST issues are usually the most prohibitive costly expenses, which is why you want to pick the most rust-free, straight, clean-bodied specimen you can find. It's the major bodywork that will add up fast. So that's the first priority if you want to be prudent with your $ when buying an X.

The mechanical maintenance and refreshes aren't generally crazy expensive, and can be done over time and on a budget. And doing things yourself, with the help of very knowledgable members here, will mean substantial savings as well.

So a clean bodied X is probably one of the most affordable classic sports cars you could possibly own. And MAJOR bang for buck in terms of driving joy. 😎✨

Just wait until you get one running well and get the suspension squared away.
 
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This is the FRONT underside of a ‘74 X 1/9. The picture I took of the car I’m thinking of buying is so bad it would be hard for people to figure out what it is, so this one is borrowed from a recent online sale. If that’s disallowed, sorry, just remove the post. If not:

I circled the round spot where what appears to be a fair amount of some kind of liquid is eminating out from. The liquid appears to be the thickness of either brake, oil or hydraulic fluid, and has spread in a circular fashion with maybe a six inch diameter.
Anyone have any idea what it might be, and why it’s funneling out of that round outlet?
I couldn’t get access to a lift, so I had to crawl under and take crummy photos. It‘s a long story. :)
 

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That’s a rubber bung in the floor of the frunk. Open it up and lift any fitted carpet or mat, something my have been spilled in there
 
NEG said:
That’s a rubber bung in the floor of the frunk. Open it up and lift any fitted carpet or mat, something my have been spilled in there
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are those outlet holes for fluids spilled in the frunk? Any idea why there are three of them?
 
I believe that’s a stopper at the bottom of the front trunk compartment. Since what you’re describing doesn’t sound like battery acid (good thing), I would guess maybe brake fluid or steering fluid. The brake fluid reservoir and the clutch fluid reservoir are in the passenger side cowl (below passenger side of windshield. Those brake reservoirs in particular have been known to crack. I’m not sure that it would leak into the front compartment though, because I’m pretty sure there’s a drain hole right there in the cowl under them. Maybe someone else will know better.
 
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tvmaster said:
are those outlet holes for fluids spilled in the frunk? Any idea why there are three of them?
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The front trunk has 3 big holes in the bottom with rubber stoppers in them. I believe their purpose is to allow any spilled fluids drain out. If there’s a purpose for them beyond that, I’m not aware of it. Maybe someone else will enlighten us.
 
adream8 said:
I believe that’s a stopper at the bottom of the front trunk compartment. Since what you’re describing doesn’t sound like battery acid (good thing), I would guess maybe brake fluid or steering fluid. The brake fluid reservoir and the steering fluid reservoir are in the passenger side cowel (below passenger side of windshield. Those brake reservoirs in particular have been known to crack. I’m not sure that it would leak would lead into the front compartment though, because I’m pretty sure there’s a drain hole right there in the cowel under them. Maybe someone else will know better.
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The fluid residue definitely seemed thicker in nature, unlike water would be. Both the reservoirs have been replaced, and are brand new, as are the brakes. Would it be safe to assume they had an initial problem bleeding the brakes, and the fluid backed up and ended up in these holes? Is there an outlet hole in the base of the side cowel that leads to the same place underneath the car? If so, I would expect the hole on the driver’s side to be the one getting the leak, not the one on the passenger side?
 
The reservoirs are located in the scuttle space so isolated to an extent from the frunk. Lift the carpet/mat and see if anything has been spilt...
 
My X came with 2 seventy pound sacks of concrete in the frunk. They had been there 20 years. And, they got wet. You can be the life of the party at the next Fiat club event. Here is how:
- Remove the front trunk mat.
- go to grocery store and purchase
-4 twenty pound sacks of cubed ice, 3 magnums of champagne, plastic cups, three 12 packs of premium canned beer, 2 twelve packs of canned gourmet water (for the drivers) and load them the the frunk (which is now the "cooler"). Drive to the meeting place and open the frunk. You will be the life of the party.
Be careful as the day goes on that water dripping does not "foul your tyres" as you drive. At end of day, park at curb, (not in your garage) and reach in the ice water and remove drain plug.
 
NEG said:
The reservoirs are located in the scuttle space so isolated to an extent from the frunk. Lift the carpet/mat and see if anything has been spilt...
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Yes, I checked the frunk, and it seemed clean and dry, holding only the Targa top. Are there any other outlets on the car that funnel down to these three underside circles?
 
Perhaps something (soda?) got spilled in there, and they cleaned out the inside of the trunk, but some had already seeped around the plug...
 
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