Rupunzell
Bernice Loui
~Note to Forum Admin, the once portrait oriented images have been flipped to landscape orientation with no means to correct this problem. This identical problem has appeared on other forums~
After making a SAE660 bearing bronze replacement bushing for the pedals, Dennis G from MonteCarlo Consortium mentioned brake pedal flex noted after he did the nearly identical fix to the Monte pedal box. Dennis solution to this flexi brake pedal was to make a boxed section brake pedal:
Inspired by Dennis, went looking for a spare brake pedal. Thanks to the Generosity of Tony F, a spare brake pedal arrived.
Set it up in the BPM to center the machine tool spindle to the brake pedal bushing with a Blake Indicator (these work, the imitation ones sort of work).
Apply boring head running CCW until the bushing weld has been removed.
Remove the brake push rod pin by cutting off the riveted end.
Center the BP spindle to the brake clevis pin hole on the first brake pedal:
Hole measured 0.399", ream hole to 0.406".
Make two alloy steel bushings on the lathe:
Press the alloy steel bushings into the reamed hole in to both brake pedals.
Set up the double brake pedal for brazing the two together at the bushing:
Set up the torch, flux, heat, add filler bronze:
Check double pedal alignment with each other. There will be inherent offset due to the angles and distance
between the two otherwise very similar stampings.
Set up the double pedal assembly in the BP, make a spacer on the lathe to -0.002" less than the
now fixed spacing between the two pedal stampings. Drill and tap the first hole. Apply screw to clamp in place.
Set up to drill and tap the other three holes. The top two holes are 5/16-24 threaded on one pedal, the other pedal
gets a 5/16" clearance hole with 100 degree countersink. The bottom two near the pedal pad are 1/4-28.
Last hole set.
Slit saw part of the old pedal pad to be used as pedal pad extension for the first pedal pad.
Make a 0.062" thick steel backing plate. Clamp it all together, flux, prep for brazing.
Set up the torch, heat, add brazing bronze, SST wire brush clean up.
Prep double pedal for final assembly:
Prep NAS1580 torq-set titanium flat head screws and alloy steel spacers for assembly.
The rod end based brake master cylinder push rod is in front.
Apply Loctite RC609 to the threads, torque 5/16" screws to 250in/lb.
1/4" screws to 150in/lb.
Set up the double pedal assembly in the BP to drill and tap a hole for lube (Zerk) fitting.
Tap hole 1/4-28 tpi.
Countersink threaded hole entry.
Clean up, prep for primer and paint. Front.
Back side.
Detail of the brake rod end push rod area.
The NAS1005-16 bolt got it's threads shortened to fit as needed:
Prep for primer, paint and finish up next post.
Bernice
After making a SAE660 bearing bronze replacement bushing for the pedals, Dennis G from MonteCarlo Consortium mentioned brake pedal flex noted after he did the nearly identical fix to the Monte pedal box. Dennis solution to this flexi brake pedal was to make a boxed section brake pedal:
Inspired by Dennis, went looking for a spare brake pedal. Thanks to the Generosity of Tony F, a spare brake pedal arrived.
Set it up in the BPM to center the machine tool spindle to the brake pedal bushing with a Blake Indicator (these work, the imitation ones sort of work).
Apply boring head running CCW until the bushing weld has been removed.
Remove the brake push rod pin by cutting off the riveted end.
Center the BP spindle to the brake clevis pin hole on the first brake pedal:
Hole measured 0.399", ream hole to 0.406".
Make two alloy steel bushings on the lathe:
Press the alloy steel bushings into the reamed hole in to both brake pedals.
Set up the double brake pedal for brazing the two together at the bushing:
Set up the torch, flux, heat, add filler bronze:
Check double pedal alignment with each other. There will be inherent offset due to the angles and distance
between the two otherwise very similar stampings.
Set up the double pedal assembly in the BP, make a spacer on the lathe to -0.002" less than the
now fixed spacing between the two pedal stampings. Drill and tap the first hole. Apply screw to clamp in place.
Set up to drill and tap the other three holes. The top two holes are 5/16-24 threaded on one pedal, the other pedal
gets a 5/16" clearance hole with 100 degree countersink. The bottom two near the pedal pad are 1/4-28.
Last hole set.
Slit saw part of the old pedal pad to be used as pedal pad extension for the first pedal pad.
Make a 0.062" thick steel backing plate. Clamp it all together, flux, prep for brazing.
Set up the torch, heat, add brazing bronze, SST wire brush clean up.
Prep double pedal for final assembly:
Prep NAS1580 torq-set titanium flat head screws and alloy steel spacers for assembly.
The rod end based brake master cylinder push rod is in front.
Apply Loctite RC609 to the threads, torque 5/16" screws to 250in/lb.
1/4" screws to 150in/lb.
Set up the double pedal assembly in the BP to drill and tap a hole for lube (Zerk) fitting.
Tap hole 1/4-28 tpi.
Countersink threaded hole entry.
Clean up, prep for primer and paint. Front.
Back side.
Detail of the brake rod end push rod area.
The NAS1005-16 bolt got it's threads shortened to fit as needed:
Prep for primer, paint and finish up next post.
Bernice
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