My '78 X1/9 project thread

Sorry for your troubles

In my experience with previous X´s, replacing the switch resulted in a permanent fix. Replace it again, but source it from a quality vendor, like Midwest or FIAT plus.
Check the source of the coolant leak in the front of the car ASAP. If you find that the radiator is the culprit, take advantage of the new aluminum radiator being offered elsewhere in the forum.
Our beautiful cars are all very old. Anything can happen, even taking great care of them. They are little, but strong and full of character, and they sometimes protest. I reccomend that you take it a little easy with your speed, until you are sure everything has been corrected. Enjoy !
 
well i think my problem stemed not from a faulty switch but from the sealing washer not being tightened enough...?

Anyways, I removed the switch, checked the area where the plastic body of the switch meets the metal hex and no sign of oil there... it looks like the leak occured somewhere between the sealing washer and the block or switch. I removed the switch, wiped down the area, and reinstalled it with a bit more torque than previously used. It appears to have stopped leaking, so I'm going to hold my breath and see if this solved it.
 
Hope that was it.

Hopefully that was the issue and the leak will cease. Now go check your email! :)
 
Get used to that pace, Zonk... and remember...

The LAST thing you touched is the FIRST place you need to look to resolve a problem.

Do pressure test your system (you can borrow the tool) and find the leaks and fix them. Temecula is hotter than where I live and lots of long steep grades everywhere if I remember correctly. I also carry a one gallon bottle of water, a pint of brake fluid, and a quart of oil along with my spares in the rear trunk. As long as I carry spares, I seem to never need them...

I've also been known to carry snow chains as well and with my belief in "Murphy" being an optimist, I have single-handedly kept freezing temperatures out of most of the Southland...
 
snow chains lOL

well the leak seems to have subsided, and now the starter is giving me momentary fits of no-go. I'm gonna have to do that brown wire mod sooner than I thought.

today was fun, i installed the H4 projector lenses and a set of 7W/14W H4 LED lo/hi beam bulbs. HUGE improvement over the red paint oversprayed stock bulbs :)

and yes, i know... pics or it didn't happen so here you go...

20130918_183421_zps36c5a2bc.jpg


20130918_183339_zps7bda9027.jpg
 
Zonk,

Do you have a part # and source for the LED headlight lamps? I think mine draw about 55 or 45 watts each and do draw down the voltage meter when I turn them on.....even with the BWM and HRM.

I don't drive much when it's dark, but I'd still like to make an improvement such as you did.

Mike

BTW, you going to BFI?????
 
Tony,

Just in case we get rain, I'm carrying a spare dizzy cap and rotor in the trunk with your name written on the Bosch box.:eyepop:

Mike
 
Wow!!!!! That was a quick response!!!

It's been so long since I replaced a headlight bulb, so I don't remember if they have the terminals on the back end or just twist into a socket. Were yours just a plug & play replacement??

I like the idea of LED lamps both for the reduced power input, but also the long, long life. At work, we're looking at them for replacing interior lighting, exterior, and street lights. The maintenance savings are looking awesome, in addition to the energy savings.


Mike
 
There is no way on Gawds green earth I would drive the X in the rain, so you can keep ther cap and rotor to your own masochistic self :)

As for the bulbs, OEM's are sealed beams so you will need an H4 style headlight housing set. If you are a purist, look for a NOS Carello set. Hella makes one that looks pretty OEM too, all you'd do then is swap out the bulbs that came with the housings with the LEDs.

Since I am not a purist (and cheap), I bought these to install the LED bulbs in:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/321090512494?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
 
So those lights show 3 tab connectors, how does the output vary low-beam to high-beam? Do different areas of the "bulb" light up or what?
 
I cannot discern if there are more bulbs lighting up when the brights are applied, so I think theres a stepped intensity to the existing LED's that are in the bulb assemblies.

the high beams are considerably brighter than the low beams :)
 
Cool, good to know. I'm interested in seeing the beam pattern against a wall when you get a chance to take pics.
 
budgetzagato said:
Cool, good to know. I'm interested in seeing the beam pattern against a wall when you get a chance to take pics.
Click to expand...

Just took the first evening drive and found a nice wall to park against. The beam pattern with these suedo projector lenses is a pure mess. It's just a fog of light, with no appreciable pattern. I don't even think I can aim the pattern it's that random.

The hi beams are better but only because of the intensity of light, not the pattern.

Verdict: I still like them better than what I had on there before because they are marginally better to see with (I had to drive with brights on before just to see anything). They are cool to look at, they throw a bright white light, and the projector/reflector looks trick.

But, I think a set of nice Hella, Carello, or some other normal style lenses will do me a great service on improving the LED light pattern. Some Hella knockoffs http://www.ebay.com/itm/7-Round-H6024-Glass-Head-Light-Housing-Conversion-Lamp-Pair-/130962776014?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e7dfd5fce&vxp=mtr
 
For the PAIR?

I think the others for 40 bucks for a pair with the "standard diffusers" would probably work better based on the comments you made earlier.

That's only another 15 bucks and yur talking to Mr. Frugal here.

Lastly... you BETTER drive this X to BFI as we are more interested in something YOU put together versus what our neighbors to the south put together. Less like to get KEYED too...

(Just kidding...)
 
Black-Tooth said:
I think the others for 40 bucks for a pair with the "standard diffusers" would probably work better based on the comments you made earlier.

That's only another 15 bucks and yur talking to Mr. Frugal here.

Lastly... you BETTER drive this X to BFI as we are more interested in something YOU put together versus what our neighbors to the south put together. Less like to get KEYED too...

(Just kidding...)
Click to expand...

Oh my that Italian hostility! LOL

Well I took the X to the bank last week with my girl and upon returning to the car, she no-a wanna starta...

Damn. And I thought I had that nipped that issue in the bud. Now add rumbly rear wheel bearing AND finicky starting as reasons I might not drive the old baby 100 miles one way. UGH.

Well anyways, regarding the intermittant no start issues... I bump started it with the help of a couple shopping center patrons and my somewhat patient gf. Now that it's home I started with the diagnosis. It seems warm is more of a problem than cold, and the key turn event can go from no signs of anything, to dimming dash lights, to a solenoid click, to a slow crank.

I know it sounds like battery but battery is fine. Was a little low but I put it on the charger overnight just to make sure.

I did notice something interesting when I broke out the volt meter.... while running, positive to ground terminal readings on the battery posts would give a .02V higher voltage than a positive post to ground cable body bolt connection, or any other exposed metal spot under the frunk.

I then wiggled the ground cable near where the insulated section meets the lead post terminal and I regained my 0.2V loss on the body.

Sooo maybe ground cable is no bueno? I went ahead and got a new 4GA ground cable (a couple inches shorter too) and bolted it up. I now have uniform voltages no matter where I touch the tester's ground lead. :) And she is starting every time too!

Problem solved? ** crosses fingers **
 
Well 24 hrs later i can answer my own question... No the damn thing is still not fixed. Grrrrrrr
 
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