My T/stat replacement

[lookforjoe]

Did my t/stat today - the inner rear bolt head snapped off, so I had to remove the entire housing. Fortunately, I have some gasket paper, so I was still able to put it all back together.I also had to replace all the worm clamps that someone had previously installed. I had to use old Volvo clamps, since I didn't allow for removing this much.

main housing cleaned up..

t/stat housing cleaned up.,..

head cleaned..

homemade gasket for housing

t/stat seal seat area cleaned with dremel wire wheel

t/stat sits so far in the seat, it's no wonder the paper gasket is needed as well. If the seat were a mil or two shallower, the gasket would be un-necessary

gasket in place

new bolts with shouldered heads, copper paste liberally coating - the old bolts had rusted in the housing - I drilled out the holes to clear the rust.

housing with t/stat installed - you can see that the bolts are longer than stock, but no big deal. The shoulder is shorted than the thickness of the housing, so no potential seating issues.

back together

 

[kayaker37]

stinks about the bolt, but at least you got it all done

You got the t-stat from Midwest, it looks different than the one I got

Did you bleed the air out of the system yet? I followed the directions here:
http://www.fiatplus.com/members/dectt.htm

 

[wannabfast]

wow there must be more room with the 1500 as opposed to the 1300, i had to take that off to get all the bolts off the elbow

 

[lookforjoe]

You got the t-stat from Midwest, it looks different than the one I got

Did you bleed the air out of the system yet? I followed the directions here:
http://www.fiatplus.com/members/dectt.htm

Nah, mine is a Beck-Arnley packaged 180ºF t/stat, same as a Volvo application, the jiggle pin prevents air pockets.

I haven't bled the rad yet, I just ran it with the heat on & cap off to clear the main air trapped. I'll check the rad bleed tomorrow.

 

[wannabfast]

wow whats with you and volvo parts? i spose if the shoe fits... LOL

 

[lookforjoe]

wow there must be more room with the 1500 as opposed to the 1300, i had to take that off to get all the bolts off the elbow

I don't know - I use 1/4" drive snap-on tools - they're very compact. There's not much clearance between the trans & the housing for access. If I were to do it again, I'd just buy the the main housing gasket & plan on pulling the whole thing - it's the only way to properly clean the seat area anyway.

 

[kayaker37]

I mostly used a 10mm ignition wrench

My 1/4" Craftsman drive worked ok on the drivers side bolt, was good for one click on the inner front one, and wouldn't fit on the rearmost one. Best workout I've had in a long time, my wife came home and I was in the driveway with my shirt off sweating my backside off. Working out, no just working on the car

 

[lookforjoe]

My 1/4" Craftsman drive worked ok on the drivers side bolt, was good for one click on the inner front one, and wouldn't fit on the rearmost one. Best workout I've had in a long time, my wife came home and I was in the driveway with my shirt off sweating my backside off. Working out, no just working on the car

I did mine with the back jacked up in the air - so I didn't have to bend over to reach in & under. I have a set of racheting wrenches - I actually used that for the rear bolt. It threatened rain all day today, but held off until I was cleaning up my tools around 6pm

 

[lookforjoe]

My guage stopped working altogether - pulled the sender wire & ground it momentarily - gauge pins. I couldn't find a replacement locally, so I have one coming from Bayless. In the mean time I have an old Volvo sender in there - the scaling is off, though.

the electrial socket spins in the case & the center rivet is loose. I tried re-pegging the rivet, but it made no difference.