Need recommandation for electrical connectors

DanielForest

True Classic
Hi,

I always Wonder what is the best type of connectors we should use to do wiring repairs into our cars. Electrical tape is probably not making the cut for a proper long term repair

There are the common :

And also, mostly to split between 2 wires:

But I'm sure there are better connectors with the right Tools. Could some experts chime in?
 
Until some experts chime in, I'll offer an idiot's view.
There has always been a back and forth argument if it is better to use "crimp" connectors or "solder" connections. I am of the opinion soldering is better IF you know how to do it well (which I'm not that good at). If crimp connectors are used, it is best to use the non-insulated ones and include heat-shrink insulation. The non-insulated type are easier to get a very secure crimp (vs the insulated ones), and a heat-shrink insulation seals/protects better than the plastic tube on the insulated connectors. Heat-shrink is available with an adhesive lining that glues/seals it completely. Another advantage to the non-insulated type is they are available with a double crimping system; one for the bare wire and another for the covered wire. Best to use a proper crimping tool:

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I don't consider myself an expert but I have wired a couple airplanes, and primarily use PIDG terminals - http://www.te.com/usa-en/products/t...ion/pidg-terminals-splices.html?tab=pgp-story . Individual terminals and kits are available many places, for my shopping I go to Steinair - https://www.steinair.com/product/terminal-kit-450-pieces/ ; they also have a reasonably priced crimper - https://www.steinair.com/product/ratcheting-crimper-frame-only/ and the die - https://www.steinair.com/product/insulated-terminal-die-only/

Have a look at their "Connectors" section for connecting multiple wires together. I have used a lot of their Molex connectors - takes a low cost crimper and pins - and also the higher quality connectors like the VP200 ones (buy those and their pins from Mouser or Digikey), downside is the crimper for these is expensive. D-subs are great for 20 gauge and smaller wires - I use the barrel pins which take another crimper again.

When needing to extend a wire, or join 3 wires together, I generally solder and use shrink tube.
 
Mark, I think aircraft has standards for stuff like this(?), so these should be good quality terminals.
It looks like those terminals have the double crimp...one on the bare wire and another on the wire's insulation (similar to the sample I pictured above)? Also, do you prefer the terminals with the insulating tube or ones without and heat-shrink them?

As you say, the crimpers can get expensive. And as you also noted, it seems like most terminals or connectors each use a proprietary style of crimper, so you can end up with a drawer full of them. But I've noticed some that use the separate dies ("jaws") have a selection of interchangeable dies available, so the same tool can be used for many different types of crimps. I'd suggest if possible determine what types of terminals and/or connectors you want to use first, then look for a crimper that has the dies available to fit all (or most) of them. In the long run it will save a lot of money...and keep the drawer from spilling over.

On the subject of connectors (multiple wire plugs), the Molex ones are very affordable and work well. The possible drawbacks are that they are not sealed to protect them in exposed conditions, and the selection gets a bit limited for larger gauge wires. But if you go to the sealed and larger gauge ones they become very expensive. Fortunately the patent for a couple of the 'big name' styles has run out, so they can be found more affordably from other companies.
 
....It looks like those terminals have the double crimp...one on the bare wire and another on the wire's insulation (similar to the sample I pictured above)?

Yes, they have a double crimp. In any environment subject to vibration it is important to have some kind of strain relief.

....do you prefer the terminals with the insulating tube or ones without and heat-shrink them?

Depends on the environment, if exposed to the elements I will use the insulated terminals and use heat shrink - the good kind with a type of hot glue incorporated onto the inner surface. Otherwise I just use the insulated terminals. If using good heat shrink an uninsulated terminal would likely be just fine - I just don't keep those around.
 
The first pictures showing the cheap crimps need to be thrown in the trashcan. Junk.. garbage.

I prefer solder/heat shrink, but I know Aviation will not allow solder as it makes a joint that they are concerned about breaking. I do know the aviation grade crimps will take A LOT of vibration. I have never had a solder/heat shrunk connection fail. And working on Tow trucks where everyone and their brother "fixes" the wires with crimp connections. Almost all the fails I have found have all been caused via crimp connections. I will strip the wire and twist them together and cover with tape before I would even think of using just a crimp. I will use crimp connections for connectors but I solder/shrink them.
 
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Most of the time the quality of the wire and terminals available in your big box chain auto parts stores is disappointing, and if you shop by price on eBay for wire and terminals you WILL get the crappiest crap that has ever been made. eBay is still good for specialty items but only from vendors who specialize in electrical items.

I have found that NAPA stores carry a very high quality line of wire, connectors, terminals and wiring accessories, and most stores stock a very good selection. Now they are always the first place I look. According to their web site, there are 6 NAPA stores in and around Montreal.
 
I use Cycle Terminal (http://www.cycleterminal.com/index.html) for my electrical connectors and supplies and have had good luck so far. I think he is a one man shop that sells terminals, connectors, relays, heat shrink, tools etc. geared toward motorcycle wiring. I found him because of a motorcycle project I have and since the X has such tight space constraints I thought the products would work well - and they do. I bought the $32 Eclipse crimper and have been pleased with the crimps. The crimper and connectors are akin to the ones Dr. Jeff showed above.
 
I use the style connectors Volvo used pre CANBUS. Timer, Mini-Timer, Junior-Timer. Females have tension element around contact area & rarely fail. Bosch style water proof housings readily available for engine bay use.

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If I'm replacing standard connectors I use the crimp spades similar to those Jeff posted.
 
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