New Car 1980 Racecar 1500 Single 40 DCNF Dyno Sheet

Here is a picture of a 1500 cam pulley (on the right) next to the original Vicks' adjustable cam gear that was only marked for a 1300. Good to hear Vicks finally figured out the 1300 and 1500 gears had different markings.
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In this picture you can see the marks I was adding at the top of the wheel for use with the 1500's pointer. I think we were actually discussing belt tension when this picture was taken, so ignore my hand. I am not pointing at anything, I am deflecting the belt. :)

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Can you verify the block and head casting markings? I know it looks like there's been a lot of hands on this motor, but it might help.
 
Actually - we need to be talking about the fixed cam timing reference as well as that marked on the wheel. A standard 1300 uses a cast pointer on the side engine mount [snail] as the fixed reference while the standard 1500 uses a sheet metal pointer that is part of the cam belt cover mount. My 1500 has a 1300 cam sprocket so can be timed on the snail mount [like a standard 1300] but not the cam cover pointer although this is not desirable as the 1500 block is taller so the alignment of marks designed for the shorter 1300 block will be less obvious.

Sprockets and pointers are pairs.
 
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I sorted out a few things and the car is back up and running. And seems to be running better than before. I reset the adjustable cam gear to a centered position, put the timing belt on so that the mark lined up with the flywheel/crank tdc mark, NOT a tooth forward with the adjustability maxed out. Reoriented the distributor correctly, it was off by a tooth or two and made things a little confusing, at least as far as referencing other's spark plug wire diagrams. Got all of the basics reset and then put a timing light on it and got it running well. Still leaking a little oil, the coolant drip was indeed the timing belt tensioner stud, it seems fine now. Idle is a little rough, I have to have it around 1000rpm until it gets up to operating temp. Initial Throttle response is good. Hopefully I can do some laps around the block this week to confirm it's running well under load.

Thanks for all your help Steve.
 
Those "marks" on the cam wheels (cog) are of limited value and meaning unless they are reference to how and where the camshafts are set relative to intake/exhaust valve movements or "degreeing the cam". This is a basic and fundamental aspect of engine building. How this is done has been discussed on Xweb before:

Another Lampredi engine advantage, cam set up can be and should be done off the engine with the cam housing and cam using one or two dial indicators and related cam buckets with the dial indicator measuring the cam activity inside the cam bucket in the same way as the valve.

Once the proper cam location is found then marked inside the cam housing to cam, then the assembly can be installed on the engine to be set up using the adjustable cam wheel/cog relative to true TDC on the block.

~Using "marks" is ok for a completely stock Lampredi engine, on a "tweaked" Lampredi engine, not nearly good enough as the entire goal of making a performance engine is about optimization.

As for cams, Steve (Fiat Factory) did a post on Fiat cams for the Lampredi SOHC years ago:


Bernice
 
I just saw this post and it looks like a millersmule cam gear. The engraved markings mm. Maybe this helps
 

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