New gear reduction starter troubles

Dan Sarandrea (Phila) said:
Brake and clutch master cylinders have entered the chat.

🤬🥵
Click to expand...
I actually already did them, it took awhile but it was due to a coworker who was helping me out who told me to cut the brake lines at the cylinders which caused me to have to buy or make them, he said he would do it because he had me cut them but he was fired pretty soon after for some sort of taking shortcuts. It just took awhile to find the parts and for them to ship. I do have extra brake fittings though if people are looking at building any brake lines
 
papydude said:
I actually already did them, it took awhile but it was due to a coworker who was helping me out who told me to cut the brake lines at the cylinders which caused me to have to buy or make them, he said he would do it because he had me cut them but he was fired pretty soon after for some sort of taking shortcuts. It just took awhile to find the parts and for them to ship. I do have extra brake fittings though if people are looking at building any brake lines
Click to expand...
Which specific brake line were cut?
If the cut brake lines are the one going to the chassis rear, they are no fun at all to re-do, fronts are not too bad. This is an access issue..

Tube nuts used on the exxe are not common, they are M10x1.25 long.. Brake tubing is DOT mandated 3/16" OD. Use copper nickel brake tubing specific for brake plumbing. You'll need a tube cutter, and bubble flaring tool. Facom made an excellent bench flaring tool that was copied (made in China) as a reduced quality and less durable tube flaring tool sold by Eastwood.

Bubble flares are essentially 1/2 done SAE 45 degree double flare (Meh ick style of flare dating back to the 1930's). Neither the Girling bubble flare or 45 degree SAE double flare are designed to be re-used/re-sealed. This is why great care needs to be taken if they are re-used or they leak..

Alternative is to convert what is possible to JIC/aero 37 degree single flares which are designed to re-seal/re-use and remains common in many hydro and aero spec plumbing..

BTW, If this was a multi million dollar collectable moto or an aircraft where a fluid failure will produce many fatalities would this same "short cut" of hacking off the brake lines be done? Keep this in mind as the exxe is being worked on... as it should be treated in much the same way..

Auto machinist friend noted too many un-qualified individuals wrench on cars believing there is not a lot to them.. This is common due to the mass availability of motos everywhere. Few appreciate what actually goes on inside these mech devices.

Bernice
 
ng_randolph said:
Maybe you can post a photo or two if what you have. Looking at the wiring diagrams I have, the wire from the alternator to the starter should be black and 6 mm² (a tad fatter than 10 AWG). The wire from the battery to the starter should be green and 16 mm² (about 5 AWG). The trigger wire from the ignition switch should be red and 2.5 mm² (13 AWG). The wire to the gulp valve system is listed as White / Red and 0.8 mm² (18 AWG).

Of course a lot could have happened to (been done to) the car since 1979. The wire to the battery is easy to recognize due to its size. The wire to the alternator is easy to trace, as it is routed out in the open to the back end of the alternator. The two should meet at the large lug on the new starter regardless of how they were wired previously. On my '85 there are a few locations where a wire is put in a green protective sleeve; is it possible that the wire to the alternator on your car is actually black, but inside a green sleeve?

The trigger wire goes to the 1/4" spade on the starter, without it the starter won't engage.

The wire to the gulp valve system there to disable the gulp valve system during starting. If it is not connected, starting can be difficult. You can create the signal for the gulp valve electrovalve by connecting a 1N4004 diode between the starter wire and the gulp valve electrovalve wire, cathode towards the electrovalve.
Click to expand...
What is a gulp valve and where is it located?
 
Rupunzell said:
Which specific brake line were cut?
If the cut brake lines are the one going to the chassis rear, they are no fun at all to re-do, fronts are not too bad. This is an access issue..
Click to expand...
I ended up finding a set of all brake lines on Fiat plus for $80 plus shipping. It was exactly what I needed. Every line but the drivers front were cut as well as the clutch line was already busted and leaking.

I work at a classic Porsche shop as an intern so I had access to all necessary tools and help from experienced techs. This wasn’t an easy task and took me at least a total of 20 hours bending flaring and fitting the lines in the right spots.

What I found easiest for the rear line was to get underneath and get it through the exit hole near the fire wall to the point where it’s all the way at the pedal box area, then bent it in the drivers side area first then bent it under the car into the t-connector. The most difficult for me was the passenger side rear line because it’s long and there isn’t much clearance for hand to fit and bend around the distributor and ignition coil.

I only built lines on the pedal box for the brake master cylinder which was not difficult at all and was probably the most enjoyable bit.
 
Spike17128 said:
What is a gulp valve and where is it located?
Click to expand...
The gulp valve lets fresh air into the intake manifold on deceleration. This is to avoid the mixture going rich and thus to prevent unburned hydrocarbons exiting the tail pipe. According to the FSM, the gulp valve is mounted on the rear engine bay bulkhead next to the coolant reservoir. Note that the gulp valve has no electrical connections; there is an electrovalve plumbed to the gulp valve, and the electrovalve disables the gulp valve during starting and at low temperatures. This electrovalve has an electrical connection to a dedicated output from the starter as discussed in earlier posts.
 
ng_randolph said:
The gulp valve lets fresh air into the intake manifold on deceleration. This is to avoid the mixture going rich and thus to prevent unburned hydrocarbons exiting the tail pipe. According to the FSM, the gulp valve is mounted on the rear engine bay bulkhead next to the coolant reservoir. Note that the gulp valve has no electrical connections; there is an electrovalve plumbed to the gulp valve, and the electrovalve disables the gulp valve during starting and at low temperatures. This electrovalve has an electrical connection to a dedicated output from the starter as discussed in earlier posts.
Click to expand...
got it. I believe the previous owner removed mine. Thanks
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top