New Scorpion Owner

M

MONACOV66

Low Mileage
Hello Everyone!
This is an introduction… I am now the proud owner of my first Lancia Scorpion. It’s #1733 which was formerly owned by RJ80. I’m sure members followed RJ80’s progress rebuilding it into what it is now. I bought it from him off of BaT on July 31st and I just received it here in Victor, NY this week.
Overall, the car is in great shape but there are some issues that I will be addressing. This will be a learning experience for me. Any help from Xweb members will be greatly appreciated.
I come from a predominately Porsche background, but have, over the years, owned a number of other makes, including 2 Alfa Spiders, so there’s a bit of an Italian connection…
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Welcome and beautiful car, any plans for it? You definitely came to the right place for support and help with your project.
 
Rupunzell said:
Curios to learn what the "issues" are..
Which Porsches are in your history ?


Bernice
Click to expand...
The two main issues that need attention at the moment are: 1) Shifting (I assume there’s a linkage issue). This cars shifting is very difficult (stiff and awkward) and reverse is almost impossible to get into. (Perhaps I’m just spoiled by the silky smooth shifting of the Porsche 993 Carrera 4S, I just sold.
2) The other issue I need advice on is what to do about the factory A/C. Is it worth trying to resurrect the system?
Of my Porsches: I currently drive a 2013 Cayenne GTS, I own a 2027 Macan S (usually driven by my fiancé) and a 1986 928S. As previously mentioned, I just sold my 1996 993 C4S. I’ve owned 2 1977 911S’s and a 1980 924 Turbo. I also own a 2001 Isuzu VehiCROSS (cuz I like the unique, like the Scorpion).
 
Another question. I have a Alquati airbox that I plan to use but have been advised that the engine lid strut will have to be repositioned, cuz it will hit the airbox.
Any thoughts on this potential issue?
Thanx everyone!
 
Great to meet everyone!
Here’s today queries:
What is this aluminum wrapped panel in the engine compartment? Sound deadening?
Is it a factory component?
If so, is it really needed? Seems to me that Dynamat on the body panel with a 1/4” neoprene rubber mat would work better…
I was forced to leave the car out last night and it rained lightly. The engine cover vents allow water to go directly into the engine compartment. Am I missing some sort of baffle/diverter panel???
IMG_8547.jpeg
 
MONACOV66 said:
Great to meet everyone!
Here’s today queries:
What is this aluminum wrapped panel in the engine compartment? Sound deadening?
Is it a factory component?
If so, is it really needed? Seems to me that Dynamat on the body panel with a 1/4” neoprene rubber mat would work better…
I was forced to leave the car out last night and it rained lightly. The engine cover vents allow water to go directly into the engine compartment. Am I missing some sort of baffle/diverter panel???
View attachment 77087
Click to expand...
Remove the aluminum wrapped panel. It came on catalytic converter equipped cars. It retains moisture which leads to corrosion underneath. Yes to reflective heat shield or not installing anything is fine if you don't carry the spare tire in engine compartment.

There is no engine compartment cover baffle. There was a small piece of rubber mounted vertically for when the car was in motion but that was it.

The black push button located where the engine compartment cover prop for open position was for the fast idle control valve for the original emissions choked carb. It and anything its connected to is trash. Many recent BaT dual carb conversion Scorpions have had it still there when its junk. Pet peave/.
 
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MONACOV66 said:
The two main issues that need attention at the moment are: 1) Shifting (I assume there’s a linkage issue). This cars shifting is very difficult (stiff and awkward) and reverse is almost impossible to get into. (Perhaps I’m just spoiled by the silky smooth shifting of the Porsche 993 Carrera 4S, I just sold.
2) The other issue I need advice on is what to do about the factory A/C. Is it worth trying to resurrect the system?
Of my Porsches: I currently drive a 2013 Cayenne GTS, I own a 2027 Macan S (usually driven by my fiancé) and a 1986 928S. As previously mentioned, I just sold my 1996 993 C4S. I’ve owned 2 1977 911S’s and a 1980 924 Turbo. I also own a 2001 Isuzu VehiCROSS (cuz I like the unique, like the Scorpion).
Click to expand...
Wonky shifter/shifting is often caused by these plastic ball joint bushings getting knackered.. No fun at all to replace. Dunk then in hot water softens then, aids in installation/removal. Alternative and far more durable fix is to replace them all with high quality rod ends.
Lancia shift link.jpg


This is what the mock-up looks like.
# 209, shifter mock-up check.JPG


There is another polymer bushing at the end and top of the long shift shaft that is often knackered, but never replaced. Image from the rod end conversion mock-up.
# 209, shifter bottom_sph noted.JPG


Keep in mind, the Scorpiacarlo is essentially an unfinished replacement for the Ferrari Dino that very nearly never happened. There are many details of the design/production that never got finished. The chassis was originally designed for a V6, did not happen due to the first OPEC oil fiasco in the early 1970's. That is how the Lampredi twin cam ended up in the scorpiacarlo instead of the V6. This was also the first time for the Lampredi twin cam being made into a 2.0 displacement (120hp). For the USA market, scorpiacarlo got the only DOT smog approved Lampredi twin cam of 1.8L and about 85hp.. Chassis shares many components and design elements from the Bertone/Fiat x1/9.

Given such a long history of Porsche ownership, why this Lancia now?


Bernice
 
Thanx NigelProdrive!
The aluminum wrapped panel is now history!
I think I’ll clean up the deck area and coat it with POR-15. I rebuilt the badly perforated battery box area on my 1980 Porsche 924 Turbo with fiberglass mat & resin and then coated it with POR-15. With that coating it was impervious to moisture and pretty much everything else.
The rubber in the engine compartment is intact.
Is this the fast idle push button? I will strip it out, if it is. This engine has twin Webers and a custom made choke cable setup. Where do the wires go that are attached to the switch?
I do not like superfluous items to be left in place. Did the wires go directly to the original carb or are they part of the engine harness?
I’m thinking I’ll just ditch the factory hood prop rod and use my Griot’s Garage adjustable rod so that there are no clearance issues with the Alquati air box, I’m planning on using, unless someone has a better idea.
IMG_8554.jpeg
IMG_8551.jpeg
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IMG_8557.jpeg
 
Rupunzell said:
Wonky shifter/shifting is often caused by these plastic ball joint bushings getting knackered.. No fun at all to replace. Dunk then in hot water softens then, aids in installation/removal. Alternative and far more durable fix is to replace them all with high quality rod ends.
View attachment 77093

This is what the mock-up looks like.
View attachment 77094

There is another polymer bushing at the end and top of the long shift shaft that is often knackered, but never replaced. Image from the rod end conversion mock-up.
View attachment 77095

Keep in mind, the Scorpiacarlo is essentially an unfinished replacement for the Ferrari Dino that very nearly never happened. There are many details of the design/production that never got finished. The chassis was originally designed for a V6, did not happen due to the first OPEC oil fiasco in the early 1970's. That is how the Lampredi twin cam ended up in the scorpiacarlo instead of the V6. This was also the first time for the Lampredi twin cam being made into a 2.0 displacement (120hp). For the USA market, scorpiacarlo got the only DOT smog approved Lampredi twin cam of 1.8L and about 85hp.. Chassis shares many components and design elements from the Bertone/Fiat x1/9.

Given such a long history of Porsche ownership, why this Lancia now?


Bernice
Click to expand...
Hi Bernice!
The car has a set of fabricated rods with heim joints. I just think they may not be correctly adjusted.
I have read all I can about the Montecarlo/Scorpion so I am aware of what it could have been if the lame OPEC deal hadn’t happened. Perhaps I should get my hands on a Ferrari V6 and do a conversion!
I’m getting older and wanted something unique, like my VehiCROSS. The Scorpion has always appealed to me (in fact, it’s a real headturner here already, even just sitting in my driveway). I also figure it’s a pretty stable investment that might also gain value because there are so few running 1977 Scorpions left.
IMG_8560.jpeg
18B13472-B319-4ECF-8903-3CA47547831C.jpeg
 
MONACOV66 said:
Thanx NigelProdrive!
The aluminum wrapped panel is now history!
I think I’ll clean up the deck area and coat it with POR-15. I rebuilt the badly perforated battery box area on my 1980 Porsche 924 Turbo with fiberglass mat & resin and then coated it with POR-15. With that coating it was impervious to moisture and pretty much everything else.
The rubber in the engine compartment is intact.
Is this the fast idle push button? I will strip it out, if it is. This engine has twin Webers and a custom made choke cable setup. Where do the wires go that are attached to the switch?
I do not like superfluous items to be left in place. Did the wires go directly to the original carb or are they part of the engine harness?
I’m thinking I’ll just ditch the factory hood prop rod and use my Griot’s Garage adjustable rod so that there are no clearance issues with the Alquati air box, I’m planning on using, unless someone has a better idea.
Click to expand...

That's the correct switch you no longer need. One wire may be ground. But trace them back as far as you can. maybe you still have the no longer needed electrovalve on the firewall. Can't tell from pics posted so far.

You have 5 miles of old emissions and AC wiring you don't need. A tidy upgrade is to swap in a 65 amp Bosch alternator with internal regulator from later Fiats to ditch the black box external one mounted nearby you still have.

Yank the studs from the transmission that mounted the no longer present emissions air pump and insert flush hex head screws. Makes a better spot for hands or feet without being poked leaning into car working further back.

For the prop rod some people have installed a hydraulic strut on the driver's (Scorpion) side.

.
 
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